Redneck's Guide to Hay Testing

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Jogeephus

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I think it can be agreed that without a hay test you really don't know what the food value of the hay is. If you are purchasing high priced hay, testing it is a good way to insure you are getting your monies worth. I think the tests run about $15. However, if you would rather buy a case of beer with that money, you can use the following method approved by the Georgia Redneck Cattleman's Association.

The method is simple, and involves three easy steps.

First, randomly chose a bale then pull a small sample from the core.

Hay008.jpg


Once done, you should put it in an appropriate container or plastic bag capable of holding water.

Hay009.jpg


Next, fill container with water. Once filled, pop the top on a can and light up a cigarette keeping in mind that you have 23 more in the back of your truck. ;-) Once the beer is finished, pull the sample from the container and inspect.

Hay010.jpg


If the grass has turned to a greenish color like above, you are looking at something worthy of consideration. If not, thump your cigarette butt over in the hay storage area and drive off cause the hay ain't worth the money. :lol:
 
Seriously?! I get mine tested at the local land grant for free but it is kinda a hassle. I would much rather have a beer and test it that way.

Sizmic
 
Its not very scientific and you can't tell what the RFV is but in Bermuda, the color is a pretty good indication of the quality of hay. The amount of green in relation to the stem length can tell you a lot. Simply adding water to the hay should bring out the color. If everything was done properly, it should have a lot of green in it.

I see many folks try to sell rank Tift 44 or Alicia as feed hay. Due to their small stem sizes, both these grasses look good in a bale even if the field cut 8 rolls/acre. But if you test it in this manner, you will be able to see how much of the stem is brown versus green. If you get a high pecentage of brown then it is probably not going to test well.
 
CowpokeJ":1o6kji9v said:
Will it work if you use a bottle instead of a can?

:lol: Yep. But it has to be iced down for at least thirty minutes prior to testing and am told them goosenecks work best. :lol:
 
Jogeephus":zdnirpfa said:
CowpokeJ":zdnirpfa said:
Will it work if you use a bottle instead of a can?

:lol: Yep. But it has to be iced down for at least thirty minutes prior to testing and am told them goosenecks work best. :lol:

I tested a few of those in cold bottles this weekend at Logans Roadhouse along with a nice steak dinner. The only problem they wouldn't let me bring the bale of hay in with me.
 
domino":i1zbdyqx said:
is this for real?

Yeah. It will work. After all, when you are putting up grass hay all you are doing is dehydrating the grass. If you hydrate the grass you can tell a lot about what the grass looked like before it was cut. (Least you can on bermuda) I have seen so many people peddle trash hay to folks as "feed hay" and got to noticing this when my hay got wet in the winter so I tried it and it works. Now you can't tell the nutrient content but you dang sure can pick out whether or not the hay was cut at the proper height by the coloration and you can also pick out all the weeds that were baled with it. Try it. Its easy and will tell you a lot, that's why I posted it.

PS Reason I called it redneck's guide was to make lite of it in hopes I wouldn't get chastised for not sending it off to be tested. But the truth is, if you are looking for hay and hay is short you may not have that luxury. A dixie cup of water and a hand full of hay will tell you a lot on the spot in less than 10 minutes.
 
Quote:
If the grass has turned to a greenish color like above, you are looking at something worthy of consideration. If not, thump your cigarette butt over in the hay storage area and drive off cause the hay ain't worth the money.

I'm wondering if when this test is complete, and you have some green and some brown, is it still best to burn it instead of paying a low price, (like corn stalks or some other baled up dead stems)? How is corn stalks better than bermuda grass hay? I know I'm comparing oranges to apples, but I would think bermuda grass hay would be as good as any other last resort hay to feed with suppliments. To say its only good for a fire is putting it as worthless. Cornstalks and other dead stems and stalks are little better than cardboard and they bring a good price, why not baled up bermuda grass? Lets say "set fire to anything that don't turn green with your test." I guess when you say "ain't worth the money" I think "well its a darn sight better than cornstalks!" :)
 
VZCR, I was making a joke about burning it. My point has been, there are a lot of people that say their hay is "good hay" and they want premium prices for filler hay. Now if its filler hay and you are asking $25 roll for it that fine. But if its filler hay and you are asking $60/roll that's wrong.

Without a forage sample or some test you really don't know what you are buying. But sometimes that's not an option. This is a simple and quick way to judge its quality. Try it.

Why would you be concerned about this? I mean after all, after going to your website I see you only sell Premium High Quality Horse Hay.
 
Jogeephus":nijhypmq said:
VZCR, I was making a joke about burning it. My point has been, there are a lot of people that say their hay is "good hay" and they want premium prices for filler hay. Now if its filler hay and you are asking $25 roll for it that fine. But if its filler hay and you are asking $60/roll that's wrong.

Without a forage sample or some test you really don't know what you are buying. But sometimes that's not an option. This is a simple and quick way to judge its quality. Try it.

Why would you be concerned about this? I mean after all, after going to your website I see you only sell Premium High Quality Horse Hay.
Nope we sell any grade of hay. Matter of fact I have sent some out thataway, and the folks appriciate it very much. I just see a lot of hype about hay from Texas being so drenched out of nutrients by all the rain we've had, I'm going to rebuke that every chance I get. I agree that hay that can't get cut at optimum times isn't as good as hay that is cut and baled under the best and perfect conditions, but it isn't just good for a fire ball. Heck I'm seeing a lot of talk about cornstalks and other baled up dead stems, I just wondered why brown bermuda was only good for a fire. :)

Quote:Why would you be concerned about this? I mean after all, after going to your website I see you only sell Premium High Quality Horse Hay. /Quote

I dont see that wording anywhere there, in fact at the very top of the page, the first sentence reads:Fresh Baled August 2007 Hay. High Quality Coastal Bermuda
I dont read "Only Premium High Quality Horse Hay" anywhere there. Heck we have lots of cattle raisers that like high quality bermuda for their girls. :lol: Now the last sentence at the very bottom does state: "Excellent Horse Hay". How do you construe that to mean we only have "Premium High Quality Horse Hay"? :?: In fact the first paragraph, eighth line down states:"Plenty of Cattle Hay Available!" :?: :lol:
Well gotta go.....Gotta get out there and make some more of those fireballs. Guess we can have some smoke outs with 'em this winter........ :lol:
 
Why would you be concerned about this? I mean after all, after going to your website I see you only sell Premium High Quality Horse Hay.

Still would like to know how you reached this conclusion........... :?:
 
Quite simple. Hit your button that said Hay For Sale. I did misquote you though, you called it Choice, I called it premium in my post - that's what we call it here. I just rounded up your buzz words and strung em together. The only erroneous part is my inference that you deal only with horses since nowhere on the page did I see anything about cows other than your hay is better cause you don't raise cattle. :roll: But I see what you are talking about now on line eight and do apologize for missing it in it brevity.

Since I must have stepped on your toes for trying to show folks a way to cheaply check the quality of the hay they are considering purchasing and for some reason you want to incite me, I'd like to ask you a few questions about hay.

Why should hay fed to cattle have any less nutritional value than horse hay? If the relative food value is low, is the cattle producer not going to have to supplement the low grade hay with something to keep the cows from losing condition? Will this not be a hidden cost to the cattle producer? After all, many people on this board cannot justify the investment in haying equipment and rely on commerical producers to sell them good quality hay since they also cannot justify tub grinders and syrup tanks are extremely costly to use.

Do you go out of your way not to fertilize and care for cow hay?

And while we are knit-picking about wording on your web page, exactly what are "triditional methods"? Never heard of that?

Using one of your own photos for reference:

MVC-002Sw.jpg


Looking at the poor coloration of the grass in the background and the rank areas left in the field because you haven't bothered to change your blades, I was wondering what if any fertilizer did you put on this field? I hope this is not standard operating procedures in your operation. Pretty poor excuse of a hayfield and a baling job if you ask me. How many bales/acre is that 8? 10? Boy you really skinned the cat on that cutting. (minimal inputs + extra time above recommended = maximum bales per acre & profit and buyer be danged) Yeah, I know how it works - that's why I made this post, just didn't have any reason to point any fingers.

Picture 2 from your advertisement:

MVC-007S.jpg


Based on your statements about leaching fertilizer, I'm almost positve you got to put it in the field before it can leach! I see that little if any was applied in this field. (And you are really going to sell that to people? :roll: ) I would strongly suggest you get a soil test and fertilize accordingly. Might want to take a soils class as well. Soil fertility is good and also pick up hydrology while you are at it. Get these under your belt and then we can really start talking grass production.

Picture 3

MVC-001Sw.jpg


Can't quite figure this one out. Either you still haven't bothered to change the blades on your mower or you are running the mower too fast thru some mighty rank hay or it could simply be both.

You say that you've sent some hay over my way and people were pleased? I doubt it. People around here expect and deserve better than what I see in these pictures.

As I said in the very beginning, I was merely making light of a serious situation that can hurt cattle producers by pointing out an easy method they can check to see what they are buying. I tried to defray your comments but you wouldn't let it be. You might be able to influence others that this is the way to grow hay but you are not going to influence me. I know a little something about hay production and based on these photos, this isn't even in the ballgame.

I see now why I stepped on your toes and am now glad I started this post cause maybe somebody will learn what cattle producers are up against when it comes to buying hay from some commercial hay producers. You also advertise that since you don't have cows the buyer comes out better by buying your hay. Based on what I have seen, a cattle producer would be better off buying hay from another cattle producer because he is/will be feeding it to his own herd and I don't know any around here that would produce anything as off color and rank as what you show in these pictures.

Oh, here are some pictures of what happens when your fertilize bermuda grass for hay production.

Application of adequate amounts of nitrogen based on a soil test makes the grass green. This enhances the sugars and the RFV of the feed.

IMG_0246.jpg


Sharp blades on a mower makes for a clean even cut thus eliminating stags in the field which will dimminish the overall quality of the next cutting.

Hay002.jpg


Ideally the grass should be cut before the lower sections of the grass brown up. Browning up in the lowers signals that the food quality is going down. By comparing this picture to those on your website, you can clearly see this cutting has a maximum of 2 inches of browning whereas the stags left in your field are over 10 inches. Not good for a cattle producer looking for something other than filler.
IMG_0238.jpg


With all the rain you have had this year its a shame you want to cut so many corners instead of striving to produce a superior product. But there again, that's why I made the post. Sorry about your toes! :lol: Good bye.
 
Well there's a lot of back and forth here and a lot of nitpicking and toe stepping but it comes down to what you're trying to do and of course what you're selling the hay for in the end!

There ARE plenty of guys running around baling trash and doing a crummy job of baling it at that then pawning it off on desperate folks or folks that don't know any better for a killing. I've seen more than a few of those in my day. There are a few growing 'cadillac' hay that is probably more than what a guy would 'need' (to get by) with dry cows but for which horse people will pay ANY price, STILL overfeed and feed too rich a diet and wonder why the horse gets colic or founders... :roll: But that's just horse people, especially ones just moving in from town...

That said, I bale a lot of native/improved grass mixed pastures and meadows and they're fine for what I'm trying to do. Do I do like some of these idiots I've heard about, and unroll rounds and rebale as squares (even heard of them spraying green dye or something on it) and call it 'horse quality hay'? NO I have integrity and don't misrepresent what I have or what I do. I don't have 'cadillac hay' but it's good enough for my needs and when/if I sell any it's generally a little cheaper than the other guys. I don't make a lot extra and don't usually sell much/any.

Now, that said, MY pet peeve is watching some of these custom balers and hay growers around here. I see guys that are growing BEAUTIFUL fertilized Jiggs or Tifton 85 bermuda around here, but they TOTALLY turn it to cardboard in how they handle it. Cutting it on Monday morning in 95 degree plus sunshine and heat and letting it lay in the swath until Friday or Saturday and then running the rake right ahead of the baler just doesn't cut the mustard. You can have the highest quality fertilized grass in the world, and RUIN it by handling it wrong! I would put my plain old Dallis/native hay HANDLED RIGHT against premium fertilized bermuda HANDLED WRONG and come out about even quality.

There is an old saying, "hay is the highest quality it will ever be at the moment it is cut; it's all downhill from there". The art of making hay is to minimize that 'downhill'. That said, 'trash in trash out' still applies and you have to have the best grass you can to work with before you start. This year everything here is overmature which of course hurts quality and I can tell the hay this year is probably the worst I've had in YEARS but there isn't much you can do about it when it rains for two months straight! BUT, handling it right preserves as much as possible of what you have to start with; handling it wrong just piddles most of what you have to start with away. Hay should be raked at 50% moisture. I have raked sooner and it's too hard to dry in the windrow, and later and it's already sun bleaching too much, which loses carotene. Carotene gives the hay good green color and turns to vitamin D as the sun dries the hay down and bleaches it from green to tan. Hay is at about 50% moisture when the swath or windrow behind the mower has wilted pretty much flat. Here is SE TX in 90-95 degree 90% plus humidity weather that's about 24 hours after cutting. The hay SHOULD be raked into windrows at 50% moisture to minimize sunburn/ bleaching. Once the hay is in the windrow, it will continue to dry, but only the hay on the outside, and mostly the very top of the windrow will bleach, minimizing bleaching/nutrient losses. Once the hay is down around 20% moisture it's ready to bale, which again here is about 24 hours after raking in the 95 degree 90% humidity + common here. Any more drying bleaches the hay too much, makes it too dry and dusty, and increases baler losses. I bale when I can pull some out of the center or bottom of the windrow, and twist it around and fold it in half and not feel any moisture/dampness in the stems, and it should smell sweet and fresh.

I see TOO many guys that just cut it, let it lay flat all week and burn to the color of combined wheat straw, rake it right ahead of the baler, and call that good hay. It just boggles my mind. It really isn't any harder to do it right. JMHO! OL JR :)
 
Jogeephus, Thank you for your post and your insight of VZCR's operation. I dont know much about producing, grading, or harvesting hay. However I am licensed With the state of Alabama and federally licensed to grade grain.
The thing is with last years rain shortage and this years drought I have to travel further to get hay. What gets me is these scabs pull out a test result of the hay. Of course the analize was done last week. How do I know if that result is on the hay I'm buying. And when I express this concern to the producer they look at me like I'm stupid.
I never thought about your method. I would think that it would work on most grass if not all. Cause its not telling you any food value numbers but just giving you a peek at what it looked like when it was cut.
I wonder about the horse quilty hay as well. A lot of times when I buy hay the producer ask what I'm feeding when I tell him cattle they try to sell me "cattle hay". I always decline and buy "horse hay".
Thinks again I learned something.
 
Jogeephus, Thank you for your post and your insight of VZCR's operation. I dont know much about producing, grading, or harvesting hay. However I am licensed With the state of Alabama and federally licensed to grade grain.
The thing is with last years rain shortage and this years drought I have to travel further to get hay. What gets me is these scabs pull out a test result of the hay. Of course the analize was done last week. How do I know if that result is on the hay I'm buying. And when I express this concern to the producer they look at me like I'm stupid.
I never thought about your method. I would think that it would work on most grass if not all. Cause its not telling you any food value numbers but just giving you a peek at what it looked like when it was cut.
I wonder about the horse quilty hay as well. A lot of times when I buy hay the producer ask what I'm feeding when I tell him cattle they try to sell me "cattle hay". I always decline and buy "horse hay".
Thinks again I learned something.
 
Cowtrek, you are right. I didn't intend for the post to be negative toward anyone in particular - only intended it to be directed towards a situation. But you know how easy it is for a post to be misconstrued.

LazyM, I can't speak for anywhere but here, but here there is no differentiation in price in good hay, feed hay, or filler hay. One roll costs just as much as the next. Determining which roll you want to put your money in is left up to the buyer. When choices are available, I think this "test" is an easy way to get some more information to help make a good decision.

Making hay is tough. Everything is working against you. I have made my fair share of filler hay, wet hay and any other kind of hay there is. Sometimes things are out of your control but I always strive to make the best hay possible even though I can't always do it. Where I have a problem with SOME of the commercial hay producers is they do not sell it for what it actually is. If they all did this, I wouldn't have a problem cause I also understand the varying uses of different quality hay.

In the defense of the hay producer, if this test reveals the hay is of higher quality than the rest you are looking at, it will also justify the additional cost he may be asking for his hay compared to others. Unfortunately for the hay producer, most hay buyers shop price over quality. Hence is the cause of our dilema. JMO
 

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