thommoos
Well-known member
Gonna be close a 4x6 is a minimum 50 hp, I have ran 6x6 baler on a 45 hp before, slow but it worked.
Low H.P. Round Baler?
- Thread starter daniel.carver
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kjonesel
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I have seen the 4 x 5 Hesston my neighbor pull hard on his 856 International, but he was pushing the baler hard.
Cabo
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daniel.carver":2lg28fca said:
Your tractor will turn it ok but will it handle it if you are in hills? You can make the bales as small as you want as I think it has an electric tie that you start when it gets as big as you want. That is a simple baler to repair if you know which way to lock the cam lock bearings.
John SD
Well-known member
It would be tough to find one in good usable shape and they are getting some age on them. A Hesston 5500 makes 5x5 bales. A good simple baler that is easy to use and repair and doesn't take much HP to operate. Most of them are worn out but you might get lucky.
Look at the forming grid inside the baler and inspect for worn through bars. Don't touch the forming grid bare handed because it could be razor sharp. If the bars are worn through, run.
Look at the forming grid inside the baler and inspect for worn through bars. Don't touch the forming grid bare handed because it could be razor sharp. If the bars are worn through, run.
John SD
Well-known member
Cabo":tmiivqxd said:
Somehow I did not notice this post before I posted above. A 5510 is very similar to a 5500 and everything I said about a 5500 applies to a 5510.
The tailgate is designed slightly differently between a 5500 and 5510. 5500 has a "pointy" rear end while a 5510 is squared off. I think it has an extra roller in the tailgate. Otherwise I think it only difference is an audible alarm when the bale gets full on the 5510.
The downfall of these balers was they were not designed with absolutely perfect dimensions. The rollers tend to "crawl"and break the lock collars off the bearings. Some balers run more "true" than others.
I had 2 5500's. One had been through the machine shop before I bought it and got the rollers trued up. Definitely had less bearing problems with it.
$1200 is probably not a bad price for a 5510 in exceptional condition with good forming grid.
Angus Cowman
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sounds like something a salesman would say that has no idea what he is talking aboutkjonesel":2t1jd1zo said:
John SD
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Angus Cowman":1qtrsjnw said:
I have no first hand experience with soft center bales. The only advantage I can see is that the hay might be able to be safely baled at a higher moisture. An advantage of that would be more retained leaves.
That said, anyone I know that has dealt with soft center bales describes them as a PIA to deal with. They don't keep well. They don't unroll well. They don't retain their shape, expecially when stacked.
My uncle bought some hay one winter in soft center bales said the bales were impossible to unroll by pushing them around with the F10 or F25. He said the best way to feed them was picking the bales up and drop them a couple times, then feed like loose hay.
The one positive thing my uncle did have to say about the soft core bales was the hay was uniform quality throughout, with no moldy centers. He was one of the last couple guys in the country still putting up hay the old fashioned way and never owned a baler.. Now most everyone bales except for a couple guys still using Hesston bread loaf stackers. Still see some Haybusters being used too.
daniel.carver
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I have a ford sycle mower.thommoos":2lhwqqsq said:
kjonesel
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I wish I would have saved a picture of the bales that were baled by a John Deere belt baler being fed alongside the one out of the Krone. The outside edge was eaten but the inner half was sitting in the feeder, the cows will take the path of least resistance. As far as unrolling the bales it is impossible to do if that is your feeding method but with the price of hay I wonder if you would lose enough to make feeding that way cost prohibitive. I will grant you that if you want to stack these bales in a barn they weren't made for that but what percentage of round bales are kept in a barn? I will try to get a picture of 60 bales we have had sitting by a field where they were rolled last summer. I feel they look pretty good and we have had a large amount of rain this winter, much more than normal. After being around cattle for 40 years it's a simple principle, you have to get your animals to eat to perform.
John SD
Well-known member
Very few people ""here" use hay rings. Even the guys that sell them use the selling point that rings are most useful for small groups of cows confined to a small lot or corral.
IMO, it is much more efficient to feed cows only what they will clean up in a day by unrolling a bale rather than feeding in rings. I don't own one, but every brand of hay ring I have ever seen seems to have large amounts of wasted hay around it with large amounts of manure/urine mixed in it.
The bales from my Hesston 856A are pretty dang tight all the way through. The bales do roll out good and there is not much of a core left when done. If I really wanted to I would get out of the tractor and finish rolling it myself, but it is simply not worth it. The best way to roll them out is in the opposite direction from the way they were baled because they go much further that way.
IMO, it is much more efficient to feed cows only what they will clean up in a day by unrolling a bale rather than feeding in rings. I don't own one, but every brand of hay ring I have ever seen seems to have large amounts of wasted hay around it with large amounts of manure/urine mixed in it.
The bales from my Hesston 856A are pretty dang tight all the way through. The bales do roll out good and there is not much of a core left when done. If I really wanted to I would get out of the tractor and finish rolling it myself, but it is simply not worth it. The best way to roll them out is in the opposite direction from the way they were baled because they go much further that way.
agmantoo
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I had no problem unrolling the bales from my Krone. I used a 3 point unroller and I could transport the bales and then unroll them to where the cattle had easy access. I fed on poor areas of the pasture in order to build up the fertility from the manure. By unrolling the hay I had almost no waste and all the cattle had an equal access to the feed. A timid cow will lose weight if the boss cow will not allow her access to hay fed in rings. I have also had a 5th wheel steer trailer hay feeder that held multiple bales. That was the worst way to me that I ever tried feeding hay. Before reverting to feeding hay each Winter I would shut down and go out of business. Nothing beats letting the cattle harvest their own feed.
hillrancher
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From U of A bails set out waste is 36% rolled out32% in rings 3%.
Bails stored on ground waste is 22% elevate 16% in barn 8%.
Accoring to U of A we need to build barns and buy hay rings.
I roll out on step slaps there is not much more waste than in rings. We have feed in the bottoms this year on the sand that was left last spring by floods.
Bails stored on ground waste is 22% elevate 16% in barn 8%.
Accoring to U of A we need to build barns and buy hay rings.
I roll out on step slaps there is not much more waste than in rings. We have feed in the bottoms this year on the sand that was left last spring by floods.
Angus Cowman
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MU done some of the sam studies and had some of the same results BUT The results were different if you were running larger herds or if you were unrolling and giving them only enough that they would would clean it up in 6-8 hrshillrancher":1rf8a6ed said:
then the unrolling watsed less hay
The key to unrolling is only feed enough everyday that they can clean up in 6-8 hrs
kjonesel
Well-known member
That is interesting research and I can't argue with it. I have switched this winter to the elevated bale feeder (the bale is put in the top over a cone made of pipes and the waste has went to virtually nothing. With the inputs on hay rising I know we all will be looking for ways to save hay next year
john250
Well-known member
I started unrolling 5/6 yrs ago. Fed in rings before that.
r.e. unrolling soft center bales. I started unrolling bales from a Class 66. The outer 8" to a foot will unroll, but the wadded up core is best placed in a ring.
belt balers unroll better, but eventually you get tired of pushing the bales around.
Unrolling is better for me. Feeding around the ring created multiple mud pits. On a hard surface (a heavy use pad) you get lots of manure to haul.
Unroll bales where you want to upgrade fertility. Get new seed started.
r.e. unrolling soft center bales. I started unrolling bales from a Class 66. The outer 8" to a foot will unroll, but the wadded up core is best placed in a ring.
belt balers unroll better, but eventually you get tired of pushing the bales around.
Unrolling is better for me. Feeding around the ring created multiple mud pits. On a hard surface (a heavy use pad) you get lots of manure to haul.
Unroll bales where you want to upgrade fertility. Get new seed started.
John SD
Well-known member
Can anyone give an estimate on how many cows can be fed with one bale feeder? I'm guessing about 8-10 cows per feeder or there will be excessive fighting? It looks like the investment in bale feeders themselves would add up quickly.
I'm looking at a catalog with Vern's and Stur-D bale feeders in it. These prices are from Aug 2011.
The Vern's standard and crown feeders are priced at $316 and $519 respectively.
The Stur-D feeders are much more durable looking than the Vern's product, but of course are priced higher accordingly also. The oil field pipe framework and sucker rod slant bars are considerably heavier than the Vern's tubing.
standard 8' round is priced at $620
9' "haysaver" model is $680
open top feeder is $840
14' oval feeder that holds 2 bales is $880
I'm looking at a catalog with Vern's and Stur-D bale feeders in it. These prices are from Aug 2011.
The Vern's standard and crown feeders are priced at $316 and $519 respectively.
The Stur-D feeders are much more durable looking than the Vern's product, but of course are priced higher accordingly also. The oil field pipe framework and sucker rod slant bars are considerably heavier than the Vern's tubing.
standard 8' round is priced at $620
9' "haysaver" model is $680
open top feeder is $840
14' oval feeder that holds 2 bales is $880
agmantoo
Well-known member
I am not impressed by the data posted from the universities! I am the man that owns the cattle, owned the hay , owned the cattle and fed each bale. Properly feeding unrolled hay has little waste and timid cattle do not go wanting for feed! I do so many things that are unconventional or unacceptable that I have become skeptical to most practices and published nonsense. If you want to to continue to subsidize those that provide inputs to our industry and technical advice feel free to do so. Just remember where you got that guidance when cattle prices do drop and the profits shrink accordingly.
agmantoo"[b:oyom3dq6 said:
You have to look at who, and how the research was done,
But I would have to agree that good hay unrolled has little loss, and a ring that is not is a good state of repair can lead to higher losses.
daniel.carver
Well-known member
Hi All,
A guy sent me an e-mail (no picture) & he's up by Stockton, MO. He says he has a Allis small round baler, I Googled this & it looks like this thing has an elevator that is pulled into the wind row.It then carries the hay to the forming belts & makes a very small bale :?: . Did Allis make any other balers besides this one that I have described? Such as a 4X4 or 4X5?
Thanks Dan
A guy sent me an e-mail (no picture) & he's up by Stockton, MO. He says he has a Allis small round baler, I Googled this & it looks like this thing has an elevator that is pulled into the wind row.It then carries the hay to the forming belts & makes a very small bale :?: . Did Allis make any other balers besides this one that I have described? Such as a 4X4 or 4X5?
Thanks Dan
