millstreaminn
Well-known member
Very nice looking shop! You said you were going to heat it. Did you put the bubble insulation under the roof tin or are you going to deal with the condensation some other way? I can't tell from the pics.
millstreaminn":1wtqsbpz said:Very nice looking shop! You said you were going to heat it. Did you put the bubble insulation under the roof tin or are you going to deal with the condensation some other way? I can't tell from the pics.
Silver":2gr9ijix said:millstreaminn":2gr9ijix said:Very nice looking shop! You said you were going to heat it. Did you put the bubble insulation under the roof tin or are you going to deal with the condensation some other way? I can't tell from the pics.
It has a ceiling, and will have insulation blown into the attic in the next while. There are vents on the gables to allow air flow to eliminate condensation in the attic.
gcreekrch":2wk9crpd said:2 comments Silver, don't move in until you have a floor and put pex hose in the floor in case you ever want to heat that way. Did both and am thankful for both. We heat with an outdoor boiler for shop, house and bunkhouse. -35 outside and +15 or 20 inside (celcius) is kinda nice.
slick4591":3pwntdfx said:Silver, I really like your building. Around here we normally construct a building on its concrete foundation. Is there a reason you are pouring inside the building?
farmerjan":25ihe9hy said:Most of the outdoor "boilers" only need to be stoked 2 or 3 times a day. They are very popular here in Virginia and are the answer to the whole problem of getting insurance companies to accept "wood heat". This way the wood isn't inside the house burning so fire risk is way down. They can be both hot water heat (baseboard on in floor) or they can be converted inside to fit a hot air system. Plus the lack of mess in the house with wood, debris, smoke, dust, etc. However, it does take away from the actual warmth of "backing your butt up to a nice warm stove to get warmed up" or cooking on a wood stove.
There are also the kind that burn waste oil; and I am assuming that they would burn regular fuel oil as well. One of the dairies I test for has it in his shop floor and there is nothing as nice as walking in there. Also had a dairy that had it in their parlor floor and the milking parlor was always comfortable. They no longer milk but it was one of my favourite farms to test in the winter.
Silver":1glqaejo said:slick4591":1glqaejo said:Silver, I really like your building. Around here we normally construct a building on its concrete foundation. Is there a reason you are pouring inside the building?
Thanks. This is a pole building, so the building is built on poles set in the ground. Therefore the order of operations is that the poles are set, building erected, then the floor last. The floor is a floating slab.
JMJ Farms":1y82yiyy said:Silver, 2 pieces of advice from an idiot that learned the hard way.
1) make sure the floor starts sloping down from where the roll up door hits it all the way to the outside edge of the building. People told me that the door would seal it watertight. :bs: It WILL run back under the door if not sloped.
2) if you have a way to keep that cement wet for 7 days after pouring it will cure much stronger. Slick it, let it harden and then start wetting it the next day. A simple sprinkler will do.
This one doesn't count. I prefer cut expansion joints over metal expansion joints. It being a shop, you may not want either.
Silver":xcl4pz2c said:JMJ Farms":xcl4pz2c said:Silver, 2 pieces of advice from an idiot that learned the hard way.
1) make sure the floor starts sloping down from where the roll up door hits it all the way to the outside edge of the building. People told me that the door would seal it watertight. :bs: It WILL run back under the door if not sloped.
2) if you have a way to keep that cement wet for 7 days after pouring it will cure much stronger. Slick it, let it harden and then start wetting it the next day. A simple sprinkler will do.
This one doesn't count. I prefer cut expansion joints over metal expansion joints. It being a shop, you may not want either.
Thanks. Yes, I plan on cutting the floor. As far as floor slope, that's interesting. I had assumed to have the floor sloped towards the middle, and from the back end sloped towards the roll up door to facilitate washing and squeegeeing the water out the door. Or do you mean to start the slope for the outside apron right where the door touches down so water won't come back in? That was my plan anyway.
Regarding the curing, I know that keeping it wet does work well. Will also talk to the cement supplier. I am going to use 34 mpa cement, it's $10 per cubic meter more, but well worth it I think.