New shop, I can't say I'm not excited.

[millstreaminn]

Very nice looking shop! You said you were going to heat it. Did you put the bubble insulation under the roof tin or are you going to deal with the condensation some other way? I can't tell from the pics.

 

[Silver]

Very nice looking shop! You said you were going to heat it. Did you put the bubble insulation under the roof tin or are you going to deal with the condensation some other way? I can't tell from the pics.

It has a ceiling, and will have insulation blown into the attic in the next while. There are vents on the gables to allow air flow to eliminate condensation in the attic.

 

[ddd75]

they got posts every 2' ?

 

[millstreaminn]

Very nice looking shop! You said you were going to heat it. Did you put the bubble insulation under the roof tin or are you going to deal with the condensation some other way? I can't tell from the pics.

It has a ceiling, and will have insulation blown into the attic in the next while. There are vents on the gables to allow air flow to eliminate condensation in the attic.

Ok. You might want to look into putting something on the bottom of the roof tin. When you get a frost and then the sun comes out, it will sweat like crazy. I have a couple of open sided hay barns with no insulation under the tin and they sweat a lot. The last 2 barns I built I insulated the underside of the roof tin and no sweating at all. I'd sure hate to see your cellulose get all wet and compacted. Just my observations on my buildings.

 

[gcreekrch]

2 comments Silver, don't move in until you have a floor and put pex hose in the floor in case you ever want to heat that way. Did both and am thankful for both. We heat with an outdoor boiler for shop, house and bunkhouse. -35 outside and +15 or 20 inside (celcius) is kinda nice.

 

[wbvs58]

2 comments Silver, don't move in until you have a floor and put pex hose in the floor in case you ever want to heat that way. Did both and am thankful for both. We heat with an outdoor boiler for shop, house and bunkhouse. -35 outside and +15 or 20 inside (celcius) is kinda nice.

Who gets to stay outside and stoke the boiler? But good way of doing it.

Ken

 

[farmerjan]

Most of the outdoor "boilers" only need to be stoked 2 or 3 times a day. They are very popular here in Virginia and are the answer to the whole problem of getting insurance companies to accept "wood heat". This way the wood isn't inside the house burning so fire risk is way down. They can be both hot water heat (baseboard on in floor) or they can be converted inside to fit a hot air system. Plus the lack of mess in the house with wood, debris, smoke, dust, etc. However, it does take away from the actual warmth of "backing your butt up to a nice warm stove to get warmed up" or cooking on a wood stove.
There are also the kind that burn waste oil; and I am assuming that they would burn regular fuel oil as well. One of the dairies I test for has it in his shop floor and there is nothing as nice as walking in there. Also had a dairy that had it in their parlor floor and the milking parlor was always comfortable. They no longer milk but it was one of my favourite farms to test in the winter.

 

[NonTypicalCPA]

I've been heating with a boiler for about 12 years now. I only have it hooked up to my house which is around 2800 sq ft finished including the walkout basement. I can get away with only filling it once a day, even during the coldest stretches. I would have hooked up my pole barn but its on the other side of the house from the boiler and at $11/ft for the underground insulated pipe I don't have any plans to heat it with the boiler.

By the way Silver, we need more pictures!

 

[Silver]

Not much been happening since the builder left, except rain. I'm trying to get the floor prepped for cement. Door guy should be here in the next while to install the overhead, and someone will be along to blow the insulation into the attic.
I've got a young fella tentatively lined up to do the wiring in about a week.

Young neighbour lending a hand:

 

[TennesseeTuxedo]

Looking good!

 

[slick4591]

Silver, I really like your building. Around here we normally construct a building on its concrete foundation. Is there a reason you are pouring inside the building?

 

[Silver]

Silver, I really like your building. Around here we normally construct a building on its concrete foundation. Is there a reason you are pouring inside the building?

Thanks. This is a pole building, so the building is built on poles set in the ground. Therefore the order of operations is that the poles are set, building erected, then the floor last. The floor is a floating slab.

 

[gcreekrch]

Most of the outdoor "boilers" only need to be stoked 2 or 3 times a day. They are very popular here in Virginia and are the answer to the whole problem of getting insurance companies to accept "wood heat". This way the wood isn't inside the house burning so fire risk is way down. They can be both hot water heat (baseboard on in floor) or they can be converted inside to fit a hot air system. Plus the lack of mess in the house with wood, debris, smoke, dust, etc. However, it does take away from the actual warmth of "backing your butt up to a nice warm stove to get warmed up" or cooking on a wood stove.
There are also the kind that burn waste oil; and I am assuming that they would burn regular fuel oil as well. One of the dairies I test for has it in his shop floor and there is nothing as nice as walking in there. Also had a dairy that had it in their parlor floor and the milking parlor was always comfortable. They no longer milk but it was one of my favourite farms to test in the winter.

Yes, it saved us a whole $39 per year in insurance premiums. Including increasing our battery bank and solar panels, the little exercise cost just under $30,000. Had I known what the actual savings were there would still be a wood stove in both buildings.

 

[slick4591]

Silver, I really like your building. Around here we normally construct a building on its concrete foundation. Is there a reason you are pouring inside the building?

Thanks. This is a pole building, so the building is built on poles set in the ground. Therefore the order of operations is that the poles are set, building erected, then the floor last. The floor is a floating slab.

Your ground must not shift like our black stuff. Just for my kitchen I poured 8" slab with ten 24" piers to try and keep it from cracking.

 

[JMJ Farms]

Silver, 2 pieces of advice from an idiot that learned the hard way.

1) make sure the floor starts sloping down from where the roll up door hits it all the way to the outside edge of the building. People told me that the door would seal it watertight. :bs: It WILL run back under the door if not sloped.

2) if you have a way to keep that cement wet for 7 days after pouring it will cure much stronger. Slick it, let it harden and then start wetting it the next day. A simple sprinkler will do.

This one doesn't count. I prefer cut expansion joints over metal expansion joints. It being a shop, you may not want either.

 

[Silver]

Silver, 2 pieces of advice from an idiot that learned the hard way.

1) make sure the floor starts sloping down from where the roll up door hits it all the way to the outside edge of the building. People told me that the door would seal it watertight. :bs: It WILL run back under the door if not sloped.

2) if you have a way to keep that cement wet for 7 days after pouring it will cure much stronger. Slick it, let it harden and then start wetting it the next day. A simple sprinkler will do.

This one doesn't count. I prefer cut expansion joints over metal expansion joints. It being a shop, you may not want either.

Thanks. Yes, I plan on cutting the floor. As far as floor slope, that's interesting. I had assumed to have the floor sloped towards the middle, and from the back end sloped towards the roll up door to facilitate washing and squeegeeing the water out the door. Or do you mean to start the slope for the outside apron right where the door touches down so water won't come back in? That was my plan anyway.
Regarding the curing, I know that keeping it wet does work well. Will also talk to the cement supplier. I am going to use 34 mpa cement, it's $10 per cubic meter more, but well worth it I think.

 

[Jeanne - Simme Valley]

Looks like my truck!! same color too. Mine's a 2014 3500

 

[ddd75]

to keep the cement wet just lay plastic over it after it hardens a little.

I had plastic on a large pad for over a month and it was still moist and wet underneath.

 

[JMJ Farms]

Silver, 2 pieces of advice from an idiot that learned the hard way.

1) make sure the floor starts sloping down from where the roll up door hits it all the way to the outside edge of the building. People told me that the door would seal it watertight. :bs: It WILL run back under the door if not sloped.

2) if you have a way to keep that cement wet for 7 days after pouring it will cure much stronger. Slick it, let it harden and then start wetting it the next day. A simple sprinkler will do.

This one doesn't count. I prefer cut expansion joints over metal expansion joints. It being a shop, you may not want either.

Thanks. Yes, I plan on cutting the floor. As far as floor slope, that's interesting. I had assumed to have the floor sloped towards the middle, and from the back end sloped towards the roll up door to facilitate washing and squeegeeing the water out the door. Or do you mean to start the slope for the outside apron right where the door touches down so water won't come back in? That was my plan anyway.
Regarding the curing, I know that keeping it wet does work well. Will also talk to the cement supplier. I am going to use 34 mpa cement, it's $10 per cubic meter more, but well worth it I think.

Yes I was referring to sloping the outside apron from where the door touches down. My apron is only like 8 inches but it caught a lot of water. Had to go back and modify it. Sloping it was was my plan as well. But I let someone else convince me that it wasn't necessary. They were wrong. And also my slab was poured before the building so what it boiled down to was that they didn't want to do the little bet of extra concrete work. Needless to say i now use a different concrete contractor.

 

[NonTypicalCPA]

Put in a couple pvc sleeves in strategic locations in the concrete floor for the future electric/water lines/whatever that you forgot so that you don't need to cut up your concrete.