Getting a new money pit.

[chevytaHOE5674]

It has a bracket that bolts to the bottom of the rear axle housing, then the link arms attach with a couple of lynch pins, 3pt arms are easily removed if need be. I went and removed the swinging drawbar just to show you that there is nothing attached to the "snap coupler" as you call it. The drawbar was just on there because there usually is no need to remove it to so I leave it in place for pull type PTO equipment.

 

[ibetyamissedme]

I stand corrected, you are correct your adapter is in no way attached to the snap coupler. In all honesty this setup is even farther from a standard 3 point hitch than I thought. This setup has zero traction control or draft control. It's only basic function can be lifting. I'm curious why would you have this setup as it is? Not only does it not snap on and off, but it does not allow for the use of one of the best features of the tractor.

 

[chevytaHOE5674]

I have no need for the draft control on the tractor. Only 3pt equipment that I run on it is a snowblower, hay rake, and maybe a brush mower, none of which need draft control. All my other equipment is pulled off a drawbar and is way to large for that size tractor. Most of my equipment is sized for a 70-110hp tractor, the WD's I own are purely because they were both purchased new by my family and have been on this farm since then.

 

[ibetyamissedme]

I have no need for the draft control on the tractor. Only 3pt equipment that I run on it is a snowblower, hay rake, and maybe a brush mower, none of which need draft control. All my other equipment is pulled off a drawbar and is way to large for that size tractor. Most of my equipment is sized for a 70-110hp tractor, the WD's I own are purely because they were both purchased new by my family and have been on this farm since then.

Understand that, in my opinion what you have can not ever be considered a completely functioning 3 point hitch. Certainly not a standard 3 point hitch, as it does not and can not ever work as such.

 

[chevytaHOE5674]

Thanks for your opinion, like my dad always said they are like A**holes everybody has one.

Very few people actually use the draft control on their 3pt because the only time draft is needed is with a mounted plow.

 

[ibetyamissedme]

Thanks for your opinion, like my dad always said they are like A**holes everybody has one.

Very few people actually use the draft control on their 3pt because the only time draft is needed is with a mounted plow.

Traction control on those AC tractors also worked on pull type equipment.

 

[Bigfoot]

I guess I'm breaking my own rules today.

There are 4 categories of 3 point hitches as laid out by the International Standards Organization. The particular code relating to agricultural wheeled tractors is 730-1 and 730-2. They are labeled as Category 0-4, or more commonly cat.1-4.

Here are the specifications:

Category 0 3 Point Hitch
This category is intended for tractors up to 20 Horsepower
Toplink Pins are 5/8" diameter
Lift Arm Pins are 5/8" diameter

Category 1 3 Point Hitch<- - - Most common
This category is intended for tractors 20 to 45 Horsepower
Toplink Pins are 3/4" diameter
Lift Arm Pins are 7/8" diameter

Category 2 3 Point Hitch
This category is intended for tractors 55-95 Horsepower
Toplink Pins are 1" diameter
Lift Arm Pins are 1 1/8" diameter

Category 3 3 Point Hitch
This category is for tractors above 95 Horsepower
Toplink Pins are 1 1/4" diameter
Lift Arm Pins are 1 7/16" diameter

 

[saltbranch]

So, depending on the 3 point this tractor has added would determine if the PTO can be hooked up to what I have? I have a combo of cat 1 and 2 equipment. Found a MF 35,looking at it tomorrow...may buy it if its as clean and runs as good as the owner tells me. The 3 point and light frontend kind of bothers me now. Glad I posted, lot of good info shared.

 

[Nesikep]

I don't think a MF35 will handle cat 2 equipment... I know *some* MF165's have cat 2 hitches, they're good tractors though they have safety issues here and there.. Look at a MF 245, I heard they have better traction than the 165's.

Some of the safety issues I found with the MF165's is they're short and have a light front end, and the PTO lever can accidentally engage quite easily, or not completely (leaves a drag on the PTO). They have band brakes which aren't that great either.

I think if you're looking for a decent middle-aged tractor, an IH 574 or any of it's siblings you'd do very well.. We have the 684, which pulls (and lifts) a massive 2 bottom rollover plow, handles a 2 shank subsoiler down to 20", a 10ft disc on hilly ground. Hydraulic brakes work nicely, full power steering is sensitive and precise, Packs lots of weight which you need for traction, best hydraulics of it's time, 3 pt hitch has more intuitive controls than the masseys (pulling up lifts the implement) and draft control. The PTO control is smooth and can be inched really nicely, it also has a brake and a degree of "slop" so you can turn it to mesh up the splines when connecting. My only complaint about ours is a wide 2nd to 3rd gear spacing. Without a loader, you should be able to find one in decent shape for about 4-5000, add $2000 for a loader

I don't see why you people use draft control when plowing... I want to maintain a uniform plowing depth and that doesn't happen with the draft control. I use it subsoiling so if I hit a rock it pulls it up, same with the scraper blade.

The MF35's are good, long lasting tractors but lack some really nice features... I am not sure if they had live PTO, or perhaps a double clutch... I think the 165's came in both flavors. I don't think all of them had power steering either.

 

[ibetyamissedme]

I don't think a MF35 will handle cat 2 equipment... I know *some* MF165's have cat 2 hitches, they're good tractors though they have safety issues here and there.. Look at a MF 245, I heard they have better traction than the 165's.

Some of the safety issues I found with the MF165's is they're short and have a light front end, and the PTO lever can accidentally engage quite easily, or not completely (leaves a drag on the PTO). They have band brakes which aren't that great either.

I think if you're looking for a decent middle-aged tractor, an IH 574 or any of it's siblings you'd do very well.. We have the 684, which pulls (and lifts) a massive 2 bottom rollover plow, handles a 2 shank subsoiler down to 20", a 10ft disc on hilly ground. Hydraulic brakes work nicely, full power steering is sensitive and precise, Packs lots of weight which you need for traction, best hydraulics of it's time, 3 pt hitch has more intuitive controls than the masseys (pulling up lifts the implement) and draft control. The PTO control is smooth and can be inched really nicely, it also has a brake and a degree of "slop" so you can turn it to mesh up the splines when connecting. My only complaint about ours is a wide 2nd to 3rd gear spacing. Without a loader, you should be able to find one in decent shape for about 4-5000, add $2000 for a loader

I don't see why you people use draft control when plowing... I want to maintain a uniform plowing depth and that doesn't happen with the draft control. I use it subsoiling so if I hit a rock it pulls it up, same with the scraper blade.

The MF35's are good, long lasting tractors but lack some really nice features... I am not sure if they had live PTO, or perhaps a double clutch... I think the 165's came in both flavors. I don't think all of them had power steering either.

draft control doesn't change depth, it transfers weight.

 

[Nesikep]

Not in the styles I have seen... The ones I've seen sense the push on the toplink, and respond by lifting the arms, thus the implement.. I guess this does transfer weight to the rear tires, but it does it by lifting on the implement

 

[ibetyamissedme]

Not in the styles I have seen... The ones I've seen sense the push on the toplink, and respond by lifting the arms, thus the implement.. I guess this does transfer weight to the rear tires, but it does it by lifting on the implement

AC senses pull on bottom link on 3 point hitches and snap coupler on the non 3point tractors. Weight transfers without depth change on mounted implement.

 

[saltbranch]

How do I determine if this 3 point would work with my Brush hog? Thats the main thing this will be used for, shredding around our property. Whatever I buy, will be basically my hobby/toy. I have to have something to tinker with and looking to go the tractor route. I have done hot rods,rock crawlers, mud trucks etc. I would like a tractor I can do a little work with and maybe go to some meets/shows. It seems the AC has a stronger aftermarket support than the MF 35 gas tractor, from searching the web anyways.

 

[chevytaHOE5674]

Any 3pt on a WD45 should work with a brush hog.

 

[ibetyamissedme]

A oem adapter will not work with the pto. However if you have an original adapter you could sell the adapter and buy three other wd45.

 

[John SD]

Any 3pt on a WD45 should work with a brush hog.

I would double check and do some measuring to find out if a PTO operated 3 pt implement would work on the WD45 before I committed to it.

I had a Case DC with Eagle hitch. Non-PTO Cat 1 3pt stuff like a blade would work. A bush hog or post hole digger requiring PTO hookup would not. The PTO was too high up on the tractor relative to the hitch.

 

[chevytaHOE5674]

As long as the top link mounts higher up than the PTO (which is under the belly of the tractor) then it should hook up no problem.

 

[saltbranch]

I just want to say thank you to everyone that shared info here. Its was interesting reading/learning about old tractors, especially from the people that have used/use them. Today I went looked at/ bought a MF TO 35 with a shredder, pretty clean tractor. Needs some attention here and there, but will make a nice addition for the light work around our place.

 

[Nesikep]

it should treat you well, good luck with it!