TexBrangus":v5jqlsh3 said:
Thanks for all the help...I will take more advice on picking bulls anytime yall will give it. I am trying to buy my first bull, these bulls are from a guy with 25 years of privately own buss. I am just a young college guy trying to get started and these are of course are some of his lower end bulls. He says he culls pretty hard, and has his heard where he wants it. I need a bull to put on brangus cattle to keep heifers and sale the bulls/steers.
TexBrangus, I have a few things that may help you:
1. You need a bull to put on Brangus cows. Why use a Brangus bull, your obviously not a seedstock producer? You could put a hereford on those brangus cows and throw baldies making more money on the heifers and
steers that you sold. I only use hereford as an example, but if I were going into commercial operation (which I have), I wouldn't use the same breed bull. You lose with hybrid vigor. The hereford bull will give you the replacements you seek, as well as provide steers that are in higher demand (more money) than straight brangus.
2. It doesn't matter what stage your cattle operation is in, you shouldn't settle for someone's "lower ends". One option if you don't have the money to afford a better quality bull, is to buy a younger bull. I do this a good bit, but it's to gentle them to my liking: I will buy a bull as a yearling, let them breed a few cows (8-10 at the most) then in year 2 you have a good viable herd sire. The advantage of buying as a yearling is you can get the bull cheaper. In these parts a good working bull with good epd's and nice conformation can be had from $2000 to $4000 depending upon the breed and how good the bull is. A yearling bull, on the other hand, can be had around here for $800 to $1200. Seedstock producers can sell youger bulls cheaper because they haven't spent the money feeding them to get to a almost mature weight. I never consider show bulls and people who want $10,000 (not that I could afford it) or some astronomical amount. There are too many good bulls that can be had for $2000.
3. Still insist on a Breeding Soundness Exam (BSE), where the seller guarantees the bull is physically able to breed and his semen is good. This should be a generally accepted rule at any bull producer and I'd run away from one that wouldn't offer it, even for yearling bulls. I purchased a yearling hereford several years back, and his sperm count had a higher motility than my 3 year old herd bull!
4. Be cautious of bull sellers just as you'd be cautious when buying anything else. I don't much care for the bull sellers who feel they have to talk their stock up, I can see their stock in front of me. I usually spend a long time (sometimes an hour or more) looking at the bulls they have to offer, and write down several of the one's I like best. Then I go inside and ask to see the bulls that I've picked epd's. Both have to be good for me to buy the bull. You don't have to act like your the world's most experienced bull buyer, but you can be prepared. It is perfectly acceptable for you to tell the buyer that "they currently don't have any bulls that fit your need, but thank you for your time". I wouldn't make the seller go through the whole process to find out that the bull I wanted was too much money for me - that's just rude. I usually ask about price before I look at any bulls. This will prevent the price on the bull you like suddenly and mysteriously going up.
Good luck!