I have a 3/4 hp submersible pump in my water well. It won't kick on. The points on the pressure switch looked worn so I replaced them which I usually do once every year or so, but that didn't help. I don't do electical so I had a friend replace the 30 amp breaker at the breaker box and still nothing. I noticed the pressure switch valve or guage is stuck on 60 psi but there is no water in the tank. If the guage is stuck or the tube to the guage is clogged and it shows pressure will that keep the pressure switch and pump from cycling on? I have a water well service coming out this evening to check everything out but if I can troubleshoot the problem and fix it myself it will save me some money. I'm hoping my pump hasn't gone out, it is about 8 years old. Comments, hints or suggestions welcome.
Water Well Problem
- Thread starter A6gal
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Hadn't thought of the pressure tank being the problem but that is something the well service guys will have to check. That sure would be cheaper than having to pay for a new pump and installation. Thanks for the suggestion at least that gives me a little hope that there could be another answer besides the pump is burned out.
John SD
Well-known member
Is you pump a 2 wire or 3 wire pump? If it is an electrical problem with the pump itself, it might be in the control box if you have one. One of my pumps gets hit by lightning every so often. Fortunately, it blows something in the control box and I don't have to pull the pump to fix it. If you have no exterior control box, chances are you will have to pull the pump.
I'm assuming you have checked all other obvious possibilites and you do have power to your fusebox. Last year the fuse on the REA transformer kept getting blown by lightning. Fortunately everything on my side of the pump meter was OK. Had to call the REA guys at least a half dozen times last summer to come fix it.
kerley is right. If your bladder in the pressure tank is ruptured, you pump will cycle too much which is not only hard on pressure switches but on pumps too. A bad bladder shouldn't keep the pump from kicking on, if the pump is able to.
I can't imagine how much the pump is cycling if you need to replace the pressure switch each year. I replaced one last year at my summer pasture that died prematurely from operating under water in the pit. That is extreme duty, and it was almost 10 yrs old.
Good luck.
I'm assuming you have checked all other obvious possibilites and you do have power to your fusebox. Last year the fuse on the REA transformer kept getting blown by lightning. Fortunately everything on my side of the pump meter was OK. Had to call the REA guys at least a half dozen times last summer to come fix it.
kerley is right. If your bladder in the pressure tank is ruptured, you pump will cycle too much which is not only hard on pressure switches but on pumps too. A bad bladder shouldn't keep the pump from kicking on, if the pump is able to.
I can't imagine how much the pump is cycling if you need to replace the pressure switch each year. I replaced one last year at my summer pasture that died prematurely from operating under water in the pit. That is extreme duty, and it was almost 10 yrs old.
Good luck.
It is a two wire pump with no control box. Couldn't be lightening, haven't seen rain around here in about 9 months. I had a fire ant problem and ants would get in the pressure switch and cause it to arc and burn the points and they would get in the breaker box and cause problems with the breakers. I started placing a piece of a No Pest strip under the cover of the pressure switch and in the breaker box and that has helped tremendously it has been a couple of years since I've had to replace the pressure switch since I started doing this and I may have replaced it prematurely this time since that didn't fix the problem as I thought it would.
I don't know enough about electricity to be checking other possibilities. I will leave that to the Well guys. I just thought I might get some answers as to why the pressure guage would read 60 psi when the tank was empty. If it had something to do with the guage that is something I could replace myself. I'll have to leave the rest to the expert when he arrives this evening.
I don't know enough about electricity to be checking other possibilities. I will leave that to the Well guys. I just thought I might get some answers as to why the pressure guage would read 60 psi when the tank was empty. If it had something to do with the guage that is something I could replace myself. I'll have to leave the rest to the expert when he arrives this evening.
Angus Cowman
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if you close he points on the pressure switch it should kick you well on
if it doesn't them you either have an electrical problem or the pump has gone out
if it doesn't them you either have an electrical problem or the pump has gone out
A
Anonymous
Yep. With a pair of insulated channel locks or screwdriver, manually close the contactor. If it kicks on..great. Also, check the tube from the line to your pressure switch. If that got sediment in it bad enough, it makes the pressure switch think the well still has pressure.
I really appreciate all the positive input. I now have a feeling it's electrical or the pump. Nothing happened when the contacts were closed. I'll update the post tomorrow when I know what the problem is for sure. Maybe it will help someone else do some troubleshooting in the future.
A
Anonymous
Do you have a volt meter? If so, set the dial to 200v, and put one lead the wire to one side of the contactor. The other lead to the green wire inside your pressure switch..it should read about 110-120v...do the same on the other wire to the contactor, see if it reads 110-120v....this is assuming your pump is 220v which I'm pretty sure it would be. It probably isn't your pump because if it was the contactors would have already been closed. I'm betting its the electrical supply side of your wires. Were the contactors open or closed when you took the switch cover off
agmantoo
Well-known member
If you have power at the pressure switch and you manually close the points and the pump does not run either the wire to the pump is broken/rubbed in two or the pump motor is defective. I have also seen the coupler between the pump motor and the pump itself wear out letting the motor run but failing to pump water.
Grandpa
Well-known member
Learned this trick from my well man who says he learned it from an elderly female customer. Put a few mothballs in the pressure switch housing and in the breaker box. It keeps everything out. I asked him did it hurt if the mothballs touched a wire and he said no. So far it works great and mothballs are very cheap and last 2-3 months. Have not had to replace a switch in several years.
ga.prime
Well-known member
Yes. This will occur when the water in the tube freezes.A6gal":1x4aim5a said:
Got a diagnosis on the well problem. The pump is out. The pump was a 1 1/2 HP. I am going back in with the same HP with a control box. It currently doesn't have a control box. Should have word sometime today on how much that will set me back. If you need a good well guy in the Frio/Medina County, Texas area email me. I highly recommend the one I use. Thanks for all the comments and suggestions.
agmantoo
Well-known member
A6gal
It certainly is your call. However, if you go back with a control box at the top of the well rather than the built in at the pump controls you will have to change the down wires due to the number of wires required. Well pump wire along with all copper wire is rather expensive. The failure rate is about the same for both methods according to information I obtained from a pump manufacturer.
It certainly is your call. However, if you go back with a control box at the top of the well rather than the built in at the pump controls you will have to change the down wires due to the number of wires required. Well pump wire along with all copper wire is rather expensive. The failure rate is about the same for both methods according to information I obtained from a pump manufacturer.
lavacarancher
Well-known member
If the gauge is "stuck" on 60 PSI the pump will not come on. Most pressure switches are 30/50 meaning the pump starts at 30 PSI and turns off at 50 PSI. Air in the tank means something completely different. It means the tank is air locked. Turn the electricity off at the breaker and open the pipe plug at the top of the pressure tank and let the air out of the tank. When all the air has escaped the tank replace the pipe plug using Teflon tape or a good thread sealer on the threads of the pipe plug. This is important.
After you've put the plug back in the tank turn the breaker back on to the pump. It should start and pump water into the tank. Watch the pressure gauge - it should start to come up and when it gets to about 50 PSI the pump should turn off. This is how it is supposed to work and it's how my well works.
good luck
After you've put the plug back in the tank turn the breaker back on to the pump. It should start and pump water into the tank. Watch the pressure gauge - it should start to come up and when it gets to about 50 PSI the pump should turn off. This is how it is supposed to work and it's how my well works.
good luck
