Stockpile 2022

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I put in the timeless fence post this past year. I did use wood post for the corners because the timeless corners are a lot more money and they didn't seem like they would be too sturdy. The timeless Tpost though were quite a bit cheaper then wood and install is with a tpost pounder rather then with a machine.
 
I put in the timeless fence post this past year. I did use wood post for the corners because the timeless corners are a lot more money and they didn't seem like they would be too sturdy. The timeless Tpost though were quite a bit cheaper then wood and install is with a tpost pounder rather then with a machine.
How do you like those timeless posts? Their home office is about 15 miles from me.
 
I really like them so far. I've only had them for about 7 months so haven't experienced any limbs coming down on them or anything. Are you installing them yourself or hiring? Install you don't need a machine and you run the wire right through the holes so you don't have to sleeve an insulator which is a plus. I would recommend wood corner post though.
If they are down the road stop in and check them out.
 
My favorite electric fence line post is the 7/8" fiberglass with pre-drilled holes every 2" from Ken Cove. Use the wire cotter pin style ties for the wire. Several of my interior pasture fences are 3-wire HT on 60' spacings with a wood boss post at the high and low spots.
 
"Timeless Fence" is an oxymoron. I would think twice about running wire through a hole in the fence post. First it would require
the post to be driven perfectly to keep the hole in line with the fence or risk kinking wire or fraying rope wire. Also consider the problem
of a 'break and splice' Cotter pins will work as will larger paper clips or even a length of wire looped through the hole.

I use 3' quarter inch, 4' half inch and 6' nine sixteenth fibre posts and where applicable will use high tensile wire in places
that lend themselves to a permanent location. I also use pigtail posts for braces on the 9/16 when needed. For gateways or
pass through I hose clamp a 1/2 inch post on top of 9/16 after driving the larger post which allows me to simply make an
overhead of passway for the cattle to access a different area. To close off the gateway simply run a short length or wire rope
with an alligator clip on either end. Other than around the corral area and proprty perimeter I only use single wire at about
30". Yes, calves may go under for a while but they will come back to suck and in very short time will not go under wire.
I use an 8-10 joule energizer with 4 ground rods. I recommend shutoffs in key locations if rotational grazing.
While I haven't used them, other than their catalog for some ideas, I would recommend Power-Flex out of Seymour, MO.
Part of that is due to being several hundred miles away. (Don't ask)
I guess my main point here is to use your own imagination with your electric fence projects. I feel we are still in the very
beginning of what can be accomplished with electric fencing and I would include (no or hidden barrier fencing) .
which is a horse of a different collar if you will!
And as I have said on these pages many times, Never, under any circumstance walk a cow over a wire. <period
 
I am confused about putting up the timeless posts. Do you have to put up the posts before the first wire? Or I suppose string a wire, then put up posts, then take the wire down?

I used pasture pro posts for an internal fence. You drill holes in them after pounding in. They work well, but they could be more rigid for hanging a reel on.
 
Yeah you set the corners first and pull a string line to line up your post then install the post then the wire.
 
I have some timeless fence posts up in some places and they aren't difficult to use at all. The thing i like about them is a deer can hit them head on and they just flex and go back like nothing happened.
 
BFE, great looking stockpile! Can you update us on how many cows, how often you move, if at all, and how many days you expect to get, per cow?
 
What type of fiberglass pole did you use? The timeless stuff is priced too high for me. But I love the idea of a pole that won't ground out. I too need to do some fencing. 2 strands sounds perfect for me.

That's the company we bought fiberglass post from last year. They are out of Missouri.
 
I am going to try timeless fence to fence out some woods. Its quite rocky limestone. Any issues driving them?
I have used them for years and bought all in bulk loads to cut costs. I prefer to tie the wire to the post in case of a limb or tree on the wire. The tie will give but a wire thru the post can ruin the post. Out in the open and no trees - no problem with the wire through the hole.

Rocks: the posts have flex. So if you hit a rock they can veer to the side and be as crooked as a dog's hind leg. Also with the flex if you deadhead on a rock and you are using a hand driver it can bounce up and off of the post enough to whack you in the head. I will not tell you how I learned about that.

They cannot stop a car but I sure like them and they stay in the ground many times better than a fiberglass post. I use them on both smooth and woven fences. I am a pessimist/realist and put wood posts in dips and peaks and generally put one every 100' out of wanting to be sure. But you can skip the 100' wood posts and not have a problem.
 
That's double what a similar bale will fetch here. 45-55 per bale for net wrap 5x6 fescue.
There's no way I could sell my hay that cheap. I do contract the cutting and baling. I use chicken litter and commercial fertilizer's.
If I could buy it that cheap I would just graze my meadows.
I would have to have $60/ just to break even, and this year looks even higher than that with all the price increases.
Maybe if I owned my own hay making equipment, but that's a lot of expense to set for over half of the year.
 
That's what my hay man says, it's too cheap. He doesn't sell a lot is mostly a custom baler. His best money in hay is selling small squares.
 

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