Regular bermuda grass?

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Ga_Hillbilly

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Hey,

We have a pasture that's pretty rough I'm located in Georgia middle ways right on the Alabama Georgia line... Its a family members that quit farming and wed like to plant it in grass... We don't want to drop a lot of cash in the field seeing as its not our and well only have it a few years.. I talked to the owner of a local fees store and he recommends planting what he called regular bermuda.. It grows from what he says at most 9-12 inches tall..

My question is..

1. Bermuda is pretty popular in this area.. But the bermuda I'm used to grows taller than that.. Does anyone have any experience with this type of bermuda

2. Should I lime it about a month out. Then 2 weeks before planting put down nitrogen and then plant two weeks later??

3. How many pounds of seed per. Acre??

4. And is $7 a pound a good price
 
Lime, bush hog when needed, bale graze seed heavy hay, stock lightly to begin with, rotational strip graze, and Mother Nature will take care of you over time. Most of my place was new ground to begin with and planted in common and Texas Tough bermuda to begin with, but the bahiagrass hay and the cows rotating off of the pasture that I had adjoining assured that bahia won the Darwinian battle of the grasses on my place. There's a seedbank in most soil just wanting to cut loose. Just be patient. ........And start some CLOVER a little bit at time each year. Durana and reseeding Crimson should work good where you are at.
 
Post Oak said:
Lime, bush hog when needed, bale graze seed heavy hay, stock lightly to begin with, rotational strip graze, and Mother Nature will take care of you over time. Most of my place was new ground to begin with and planted in common and Texas Tough bermuda to begin with, but the bahiagrass hay and the cows rotating off of the pasture that I had adjoining assured that bahia won the Darwinian battle of the grasses on my place. There's a seedbank in most soil just wanting to cut loose. Just be patient. ........And start some CLOVER a little bit at time each year. Durana and reseeding Crimson should work good where you are at.

Thanks bud.. I have a aeroater or how ever its spelt.. Think i should hit it before throwing the seeds?
 
Common bermudagrass can be anything from decent forage type to a short growing turf type that will starve a cow out. Common might sound like all the same but it is a catch-all of anything that did not or lost it's ID. Get a named brand and if you get a blend with common as part of the blend just assume that the stand will evolve into a stand of common in a few years with the same unknown quality.

White clovers will not do much unless the pH is good. Soil test before you buy the seed.

I only graze pastures (do not cut hay) and planted a blend of "GA Blend bermudagrass" and UF Riata bahiagrass in both of the last 2 years. It allowed a quick cover as bahia did better in some spots than bermuda and visa versa. That also allows a half rate of each seed type. I could have grazed the bermuda in about a month in 2018 and drought was a bugger in 2019. I'll keep working the pH up and plant some Durana one of these years. For this year I top seeded crimson and a little ryegrass. To stay cheaper, I'd just do the GA Blend.
 
Coastal Bermuda grows tall and has to be sprigged. Getting Common Bermuda established in a field is a trying task due to the small seeds. If you buy it with the hulls on it's cheaper, course you have less seed per pound but it is easier to plant due to the increased size due to the pod. Don't expect a lot of germination the first year especially if the rain gods aren't looking out for you. As with anything, feed it but as others have said many times, let it get some leaf so that it can compete with the weeds that are sure to germinate.

But most weeds around here are broadleaf and they have a differ vane structure....roundish vs long as in grasses so you can come back after you get up to say 6" of new growth and hit it with 1-2% 2-4D Amine, while still in the growth mode per instructions on the container to zap the weed problem without doing little if no damage to your grass.
 
Ebenezer said:
Common bermudagrass can be anything from decent forage type to a short growing turf type that will starve a cow out. Common might sound like all the same but it is a catch-all of anything that did not or lost it's ID. Get a named brand and if you get a blend with common as part of the blend just assume that the stand will evolve into a stand of common in a few years with the same unknown quality.

White clovers will not do much unless the pH is good. Soil test before you buy the seed.

I only graze pastures (do not cut hay) and planted a blend of "GA Blend bermudagrass" and UF Riata bahiagrass in both of the last 2 years. It allowed a quick cover as bahia did better in some spots than bermuda and visa versa. That also allows a half rate of each seed type. I could have grazed the bermuda in about a month in 2018 and drought was a bugger in 2019. I'll keep working the pH up and plant some Durana one of these years. For this year I top seeded crimson and a little ryegrass. To stay cheaper, I'd just do the GA Blend.

Thanks bud

How did you go abour planting your seed
 
Ebenezer said:
Common bermudagrass can be anything from decent forage type to a short growing turf type that will starve a cow out. Common might sound like all the same but it is a catch-all of anything that did not or lost it's ID. Get a named brand and if you get a blend with common as part of the blend just assume that the stand will evolve into a stand of common in a few years with the same unknown quality.

White clovers will not do much unless the pH is good. Soil test before you buy the seed.

I only graze pastures (do not cut hay) and planted a blend of "GA Blend bermudagrass" and UF Riata bahiagrass in both of the last 2 years. It allowed a quick cover as bahia did better in some spots than bermuda and visa versa. That also allows a half rate of each seed type. I could have grazed the bermuda in about a month in 2018 and drought was a bugger in 2019. I'll keep working the pH up and plant some Durana one of these years. For this year I top seeded crimson and a little ryegrass. To stay cheaper, I'd just do the GA Blend.
https://www.naturesseed.com/pasture-seed/cattle-pastures/beef-cattle-forage/southern-subtropics-beef-cattle-forage-blend/

I found this online.. I'm thinking about just buying this...

Think this is good?
 
I used a rented brillion seeder. I do not care for the mix as it is common bermudagrass and cool season grasses that will not do anything in the spring and summer to help or stay.
 
I've never tried it but from what I read some of those Comanche Bermudas from seed are very productive. I think they have a version that puts out close to the same as coastal.

Maybe some one on here has real experience with it and can expand on it.
 
Ga_Hillbilly said:
Ebenezer said:
Common bermudagrass can be anything from decent forage type to a short growing turf type that will starve a cow out. Common might sound like all the same but it is a catch-all of anything that did not or lost it's ID. Get a named brand and if you get a blend with common as part of the blend just assume that the stand will evolve into a stand of common in a few years with the same unknown quality.

White clovers will not do much unless the pH is good. Soil test before you buy the seed.

I only graze pastures (do not cut hay) and planted a blend of "GA Blend bermudagrass" and UF Riata bahiagrass in both of the last 2 years. It allowed a quick cover as bahia did better in some spots than bermuda and visa versa. That also allows a half rate of each seed type. I could have grazed the bermuda in about a month in 2018 and drought was a bugger in 2019. I'll keep working the pH up and plant some Durana one of these years. For this year I top seeded crimson and a little ryegrass. To stay cheaper, I'd just do the GA Blend.
https://www.naturesseed.com/pasture-seed/cattle-pastures/beef-cattle-forage/southern-subtropics-beef-cattle-forage-blend/

I found this online.. I'm thinking about just buying this...
I would look at other sources for seed. For what they are quoting the price you could sprig with coastal. Your seed costs will probably be in the $160 to $175 per acre range.

Think this is good?
 
This was popular for a while, not sure if it still is

https://www.pennington.com/all-products/agriculture/cheyenne-ll


UGA review
https://extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.html?pk_id=7734
 
Douglas said:
This was popular for a while, not sure if it still is

https://www.pennington.com/all-products/agriculture/cheyenne-ll


UGA review
https://extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.html?pk_id=7734

Cheyenne is a good grass as long as you fertilize it. You skip the fertilizer one year and the bahia will take over. In my honest opinion, in the sandhills and coastal plains of Georgia and the Carolinas, bahia is the cow pasture unless you have poultry houses fill of litter to dump on bermuda.
 
Cheyenne II was needed because the original was a poor seed producer. Compare trial data and prices on this it and GA Blend by Athens Seed Co. If you do not use some sort of roller or compaction after seeding you are wasting your time and money. I've gotten great stands with a brillion seeder. I saw a planting of seeded bermuda some years back and the seeds were drilled with a no-till. The only stand was in the tracks of the equipment where it crossed over seeded areas.
 
Ebenezer said:
Cheyenne II was needed because the original was a poor seed producer. Compare trial data and prices on this it and GA Blend by Athens Seed Co. If you do not use some sort of roller or compaction after seeding you are wasting your time and money. I've gotten great stands with a brillion seeder. I saw a planting of seeded bermuda some years back and the seeds were drilled with a no-till. The only stand was in the tracks of the equipment where it crossed over seeded areas.
I planted some of the original Cheyenne back in 2005 . I planted one field for grazing pasture and one for hay. When I planted , I broadcasted and tractor tracked the whole field because I did not have a cultipacker. I got a good stand in both fields . I fertilized and limed the hayfield to the Clemson soil test specs in 2005,2006,2007, and 2008. The hayfield yielded near about like a coastal field and looked good. In the fall of 2008, my friend that helped me bale my little bit of hay got cancer and was dead by the spring of 2009 and I fenced in the hayfield and started grazing it, but did not fertilize any more. The Cheyenne disappeared in the former hayfield in just a couple of years. After I got a good initial stand of grass in the field that I initially planted for pasture, i quit fertilizing and bahia took over within 5 years. The moral of my story is that Cheyenne is a high maintenance grass.
 
Post Oak said:
Ebenezer said:
Cheyenne II was needed because the original was a poor seed producer. Compare trial data and prices on this it and GA Blend by Athens Seed Co. If you do not use some sort of roller or compaction after seeding you are wasting your time and money. I've gotten great stands with a brillion seeder. I saw a planting of seeded bermuda some years back and the seeds were drilled with a no-till. The only stand was in the tracks of the equipment where it crossed over seeded areas.
I planted some of the original Cheyenne back in 2005 . I planted one field for grazing pasture and one for hay. When I planted , I broadcasted and tractor tracked the whole field because I did not have a cultipacker. I got a good stand in both fields . I fertilized and limed the hayfield to the Clemson soil test specs in 2005,2006,2007, and 2008. The hayfield yielded near about like a coastal field and looked good. In the fall of 2008, my friend that helped me bale my little bit of hay got cancer and was dead by the spring of 2009 and I fenced in the hayfield and started grazing it, but did not fertilize any more. The Cheyenne disappeared in the former hayfield in just a couple of years. After I got a good initial stand of grass in the field that I initially planted for pasture, i quit fertilizing and bahia took over within 5 years. The moral of my story is that Cheyenne is a high maintenance grass.
Any high yield and high quality plant is not going to compete with a survivor in average conditions. That is also the fallacy of test station bulls and high EPD cattle in the real world conditions. There are no free lunches. Not even when folks try to sell you on crossbreeding and hybrid vigor. To gain the extra pounds, they eat extra feed. You still have to feed more to get more.
 
Ebenezer said:
Post Oak said:
Ebenezer said:
Cheyenne II was needed because the original was a poor seed producer. Compare trial data and prices on this it and GA Blend by Athens Seed Co. If you do not use some sort of roller or compaction after seeding you are wasting your time and money. I've gotten great stands with a brillion seeder. I saw a planting of seeded bermuda some years back and the seeds were drilled with a no-till. The only stand was in the tracks of the equipment where it crossed over seeded areas.
I planted some of the original Cheyenne back in 2005 . I planted one field for grazing pasture and one for hay. When I planted , I broadcasted and tractor tracked the whole field because I did not have a cultipacker. I got a good stand in both fields . I fertilized and limed the hayfield to the Clemson soil test specs in 2005,2006,2007, and 2008. The hayfield yielded near about like a coastal field and looked good. In the fall of 2008, my friend that helped me bale my little bit of hay got cancer and was dead by the spring of 2009 and I fenced in the hayfield and started grazing it, but did not fertilize any more. The Cheyenne disappeared in the former hayfield in just a couple of years. After I got a good initial stand of grass in the field that I initially planted for pasture, i quit fertilizing and bahia took over within 5 years. The moral of my story is that Cheyenne is a high maintenance grass.
Any high yield and high quality plant is not going to compete with a survivor in average conditions. That is also the fallacy of test station bulls and high EPD cattle in the real world conditions. There are no free lunches. Not even when folks try to sell you on crossbreeding and hybrid vigor. To gain the extra pounds, they eat extra feed. You still have to feed more to get more.

Exactly. They require more maintenance but you get more per that maintenance.

People also have to remember sorry dirt is sorry dirt. You cant change the dirt by planting grass.
 
Correct. You cant run a pro street dragster on 87 oct and you can't plant bermuda in bad soil and/ or not do maintenance and wonder what happened.

I'm working for some people right now who are losing their Tifton to soil compaction. They are scared to death to disk it up because it tears the grass up. That's the exact opposite of what it needs and with their soil type if they dont put it in a steady disking rotation they will lose it.
 
If it's just for cows, I'd recommend Bahia. Doesn't take as much fertilizer, army worms don't like it, & it gets thick. Will choke out anything else eventually, which might be good or bad depending on if you are planting fescue or anything with it. Tif quick is what I would try. Little pricey but you can get a cutting off of it this year & spread the seed faster. Extremely short germination time. Seems to me like you have to pet Bermuda too much. Bahia not as good for horses, though.
 
Col Reb said:
If it's just for cows, I'd recommend Bahia. Doesn't take as much fertilizer, army worms don't like it, & it gets thick. Will choke out anything else eventually, which might be good or bad depending on if you are planting fescue or anything with it. Tif quick is what I would try. Little pricey but you can get a cutting off of it this year & spread the seed faster. Extremely short germination time. Seems to me like you have to pet Bermuda too much. Bahia not as good for horses, though.
I concur
 

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