Bermuda Sprig Grazing Wait Time

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RustyTub

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Sprigged a couple acres with Ozark bermuda. Spread it off the back of a trailer with pitch fork, so it got spread pretty thick. It's been ideal growing conditions. Plenty of rain and hot. Sprigs have take off and are 8-10" tall now. Sprigs were put in June 24th. How long would you wait to let cattle on? I could wait a whole season if I needed to, but it sure looks tasty.
 
Definitely all season at a minimum. Let it grow wild. The best route is to cut it for hay before the growing season ends. The fert, spray, etc in the spring again and let it go wild. Then you can graze or cut it again.

The more you let those roots establish and let it spread the better. If you turn in cows right now you risk them pulling it out, roots and all.
 
I'm glad it is doing well. Definitely don't graze it yet. I need to learn more about Bermuda as it will be a staple where I'm headed (South Carolina) but I'm in cool season grass country right now (Ohio)...tall fescue, orchard grass, timothy, Kentucky bluegrass.

I think (what my brain is telling me) what you want to make sure of is that a good root system develops on the sprigs to the point that the cows are taking the top half of the sprig while leaving the bottom half (rooted) portion of the sprig such that the cow is not breaking off the sprig at the root level with the limited number of new roots and the cow is consuming the whole sprig and leaving nothing to regrow. I agree with @Brute 23 let it go the whole season. @Brute 23 also said cut it at the end of the season for hay which I suspect will continue to protect the sprigs from being torn out by cattle while removing mature growth which will promote new added and thicker growth at the beginning of next season. Don't cut it too close if you hay though.

Someone with more Bermuda experience please verify or correct what I'm saying here.
 
I wouldn't cut it for hay either. The runners need to set a good root else raking for hay rip the shallow rooted runners out of the ground. Generally when establishing permanent grasses, they should be left alone the first year. The new plants need to do the things they do to be strong enough to survive their first dormant winter season.
 
I wouldn't cut it for hay either. The runners need to set a good root else raking for hay rip the shallow rooted runners out of the ground. Generally when establishing permanent grasses, they should be left alone the first year. The new plants need to do the things they do to be strong enough to survive their first dormant winter season.
I didn't consider the raking. Good point. And if the hay isn't absolutely needed, don't risk it (my opinion).

I've never been an advocate of grazing a new seeding the year it's planted. I've never had to consider sprigs.

So don't rake and bale it. What about just mowing it to encourage it to thicken the next year, without raking?
 
I've never sprigged an acre myself but when I worked for my neighbor he did about 300 acres under pivots.
In the fall he got it plowed good and smooth and planted wheat and turned the cows in after it got about 6 inches tall. In February he had it sprigged right into the stand of wheat and never took the cows out. The wheat held the soil from washing or blowing and he said the heavy stocking of cows kept the weeds from out competing the new grass. He did run the pivots some and fertilized a couple times. By the end of the growing season he had a near solid stand on 90% of the acers and had gained a lot of grazing from it. One of the fields he even pulled the cows in late summer and cut some hay because that stand was so good. The following year every field make equivalent hay to fields that had been sprigged for years.
This is in sandy soil and he is a high input producer so plenty of fertilizer was put out.
This may not apply to many and it's not how I would have done it but it worked very well as far as cash flow and production goes. He certainly didn't loose a field for a year like some people say is necessary to sprig coastal Bermuda.
 
I have a running grass here, kikuyu. Once a few patches are established by planting runners it likes nothing better than to be torn apart by rippers. It seems to go into a frenzy running to try and cover the exposed areas. It is summer growing but its spreading and running seems to be most active late summer and well into autumn until the first good frost. I think that is its equivalent to an upright grass setting seed to reproduce.

Ken
 
I didn't consider the raking. Good point. And if the hay isn't absolutely needed, don't risk it (my opinion).

I have a running grass here, kikuyu. Once a few patches are established by planting runners it likes nothing better than to be torn apart by rippers. It seems to go into a frenzy running to try and cover the exposed areas. It is summer growing but its spreading and running seems to be most active late summer and well into autumn until the first good frost. I think that is its equivalent to an upright grass setting seed to reproduce.

Ken
Interesting. I have no idea if Bermuda would respond in that way, but I know of plants or vegetation that respond in that exact manner. Unfortunately, the plants that I know of that do that are less than desirable for grazing. Yellow/Green rabbitbrush, leafy spurge, Japanese knotweed, Canadian thistle to name a few.

Found this:
It has been introduced across Africa, Asia, Australia, the Americas, and the Pacific, where it is subject to eradication through management practices.[8] The ease of cultivation, and the thickly matting habit, have made this species desirable for use as a lawn. In southern California in the United States, the grass is commonly used on golf courses since it is drought resistant and creates challenging rough. The famed Riviera Country Club and Torrey Pines Golf Course both use this grass and host tournaments on the PGA Tour. Other minor golf courses in southern California have Kikuyu grass, many are in Long Beach: Lakewood, Skylinks, Big recreation, Little recreation, El Dorado, San Luis Obispo CC, and others.

The aggressive colonization of natural habitat has resulted in this grass becoming naturalised in regions such as Southwest Australia.[6][8] It has high invasive potential due to its elongate rhizomes and stolons, with which it penetrates the ground, rapidly forming dense mats, and suppressing other plant species.[4] It grows from a thick network of rhizomatous roots and sends out stolons which extend along the ground.

It can climb over other plant life, shading it out and producing herbicidal toxins that kill competing plants.[2] It prevents new sprouts of other species from growing, may kill small trees and can choke ponds and waterways. It is resistant to mowing and grazing due to its strong network of roots, which easily send up new shoots. It springs up in turfs and lawns and can damage buildings by growing in the gaps between stones and tiles. The plant is easily introduced to new areas on plowing and digging machinery, which may transfer bits of the rhizome in soil clumps. While the grass spreads well via vegetative reproduction from pieces of rhizome, it is also dispersed via seed. Rhizomes that have reached very hard-to-reach places will continue to grow as separate plants if they are snapped off during the attempted removal process.

I think kikuyu might fall in the same category as the vegetation I listed above.
 
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Bermuda sprigs grow and spread horizontal before they grow vertical. And develop a root system pretty quick. If it is 8-10" tall, has it covered the ground already? Grab a piece of those 8-10" tall runners and pull it vertical. If you pull a bunch of root out of the ground, the cows will do the same. If the stem breaks off above the ground, I think the cows will not pull the roots out. But only 3 weeks after sprigging seems too soon to graze. Once the roots take a good hold and the ground is covered, man or cows will not be able to do much damage by grazing or mowing.

Sprigs from June should have a bit of stored energy and quickly develop a good root system under those ideal growing conditions. Seeded bermuda or early spring sprigs would be slower to establish a good root system. Grab a handful and pull to get a better idea of the strength of the roots.
 
Bermuda sprigs grow and spread horizontal before they grow vertical. And develop a root system pretty quick. If it is 8-10" tall, has it covered the ground already? Grab a piece of those 8-10" tall runners and pull it vertical. If you pull a bunch of root out of the ground, the cows will do the same. If the stem breaks off above the ground, I think the cows will not pull the roots out. But only 3 weeks after sprigging seems too soon to graze. Once the roots take a good hold and the ground is covered, man or cows will not be able to do much damage by grazing or mowing.

Sprigs from June should have a bit of stored energy and quickly develop a good root system under those ideal growing conditions. Seeded bermuda or early spring sprigs would be slower to establish a good root system. Grab a handful and pull to get a better idea of the strength of the roots.
That's the ultimate test. We can say hay it... don't hay it... graze it... don't graze it... it's best to get out and evaluate it for yourself. If you feel like you can easily damage it... then cows and equipment can also. If you can't, then you are probably good.

Did you actually sprig it in or did you throw tops on the ground and disk them in?
 
Interesting. I have no idea if Bermuda would respond in that way, but I know of plants or vegetation that respond in that exact manner. Unfortunately, the plants that I know of that do that are less than desirable for grazing. Yellow/Green rabbitbrush, leafy spurge, Japanese knotweed, Canadian thistle to name a few.

Found this:
It has been introduced across Africa, Asia, Australia, the Americas, and the Pacific, where it is subject to eradication through management practices.[8] The ease of cultivation, and the thickly matting habit, have made this species desirable for use as a lawn. In southern California in the United States, the grass is commonly used on golf courses since it is drought resistant and creates challenging rough. The famed Riviera Country Club and Torrey Pines Golf Course both use this grass and host tournaments on the PGA Tour. Other minor golf courses in southern California have Kikuyu grass, many are in Long Beach: Lakewood, Skylinks, Big recreation, Little recreation, El Dorado, San Luis Obispo CC, and others.

The aggressive colonization of natural habitat has resulted in this grass becoming naturalised in regions such as Southwest Australia.[6][8] It has high invasive potential due to its elongate rhizomes and stolons, with which it penetrates the ground, rapidly forming dense mats, and suppressing other plant species.[4] It grows from a thick network of rhizomatous roots and sends out stolons which extend along the ground.

It can climb over other plant life, shading it out and producing herbicidal toxins that kill competing plants.[2] It prevents new sprouts of other species from growing, may kill small trees and can choke ponds and waterways. It is resistant to mowing and grazing due to its strong network of roots, which easily send up new shoots. It springs up in turfs and lawns and can damage buildings by growing in the gaps between stones and tiles. The plant is easily introduced to new areas on plowing and digging machinery, which may transfer bits of the rhizome in soil clumps. While the grass spreads well via vegetative reproduction from pieces of rhizome, it is also dispersed via seed. Rhizomes that have reached very hard-to-reach places will continue to grow as separate plants if they are snapped off during the attempted removal process.

I think kikuyu might fall in the same category as the vegetation I listed above.
I know in NZ they don't like it as it chokes out their productive rye grasses. Around my neck of the woods it had been the mainstay of the family dairy farms when they existed. My area was not dairy but it is a very handy grass here forming a dense mat over our sandy soil which helps retain moisture in dry times. It responds quickly to rain even after a long dry spell. As you say it is very competitive which is usefull to compete against African Lovegrass which is an ever present problem and the cows do well on it.

Ken
 
That's the ultimate test. We can say hay it... don't hay it... graze it... don't graze it... it's best to get out and evaluate it for yourself. If you feel like you can easily damage it... then cows and equipment can also. If you can't, then you are probably good.

Did you actually sprig it in or did you throw tops on the ground and disk them in?
I tilled first, spread sprig then tilled it again.

Went out in the middle and pulled from the middle of the stand and it broke off above ground like it would when cattle graze. Roots appear stable, but could certainly be deeper in a year. Hasn't spread yet with runners like typical bermuda I've grown, but it IS only a month old. It sure looks good tho.

I want to roller compact it at this point. Commercial pasture rollers are crazy expensive and the little lawn rollers are narrower than the tractor. I have a plan with a 10' 24" 3/8" wall pipe. Maybe a month out.
 
I didn't consider the raking. Good point. And if the hay isn't absolutely needed, don't risk it (my opinion).

I've never been an advocate of grazing a new seeding the year it's planted. I've never had to consider sprigs.

So don't rake and bale it. What about just mowing it to encourage it to thicken the next year, without raking?
I might be tempted to clip it high if need be. Would put some organic matter down which I think is good for the soil. That which grows above ground feeds what is below ground. They feed each other so it's a balancing act.
 
I might be tempted to clip it high if need be. Would put some organic matter down which I think is good for the soil. That which grows above ground feeds what is below ground. They feed each other so it's a balancing act.
It is true that what grows above ground feeds what is below ground, but in the sense that the photosynthetic leaves manufacture food for the plant that is transported to the roots. Organic matter in the soil is mainly increased by the growth, death and breakdown of the roots of the grasses, not by the cutting of above ground grasses/biomass and it decaying into the soil. This leaf area is above ground and really does not make it's way below ground to a significant extent. That being said, earthworms do move above ground litter to the underground. That, as far as I know, is about the only way leaf organic matter gets incorporated into the soil, short of tillage but that introduces large amounts of oxygen and actually destroys more organic matter in the soil than it incorporates....another topic for discussion. I don't think earthworms incorporate a significant amount of this leaf material, but at the same time, I've heard stories that indicate I could be completely wrong on this and they might take a surprising/significant amount of leaf matter underground. Grass roots live for two years. All the grass roots you see on a plant today will effectively be part of the soil two years from now. That is where soil organic matter originates from.
 
I sprigged another acre with Ozark two weeks ago. Already coming up. The first batch has been cut twice at nearly knee high. My girls are lined up on the other side of the fence just staring at it.
 

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