Cutting a propane tank

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callmefence

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I've got a propane tank I plan to make a roller out of
The rain last night has me looking at it as today's project. Bought it at auction. When I opened the valve it still had some gas in it. my plan was to remove the valve assembly allowing me to fill it with water to remove all propane before taking a torch to it. A 36 " pipe wrench cheater pipe and sledge have failed to loosen the valve. I think they use a heat sensitive thread sealant on the valves, so we are back to the torch......which gives me the heeby jeebies on a tank that might have some gas trapped inside....I don't want to survive the plague to become a smoking hole in the ground........any ideas
 
Had a small leaks in the valve system of my tank a few years back and the gas guy couldn't get it broken loose. Ended up using a 5' cheater bar and it took both of us at that.
 
callmefence said:
I've got a propane tank I plan to make a roller out of
The rain last night has me looking at it as today's project. Bought it at auction. When I opened the valve it still had some gas in it. my plan was to remove the valve assembly allowing me to fill it with water to remove all propane before taking a torch to it. A 36 " pipe wrench cheater pipe and sledge have failed to loosen the valve. I think they use a heat sensitive thread sealant on the valves, so we are back to the torch......which gives me the heeby jeebies on a tank that might have some gas trapped inside....I don't want to survive the plague to become a smoking hole in the ground........any ideas

Once you remove or open the valve oxygen is allowed to enter we now have two elements of a bomb. All you now need is a heat source. Propane will auto ignite without a spark at 920 degrees.Hydrocarbon gases and liquids can and will embed in the metal pours of the storage container.
You need to steam the tank out after water washing first and test for LEL before cutting. Water washing alone is not a safe way to completely hydrocarbon free a hydrocarbon storage tank especially when dealing with gases.
http://www.wermac.org/safety/safety_what_is_lel_and_uel.html

I have investigated explosions due to skipping steps to completely hydrocarbon free the vessel for maintenance. No way would I cut the tank without steaming and testing with a LEL gas detector. I have had the misfortune to have to don bunker gear to get guys when things went wrong.
Of all the investigations I have done the last way to go is burned or scalded IMO.
 
CB gave some good info as I worked with a guy who's father was cutting up old coal mines fuel tanks for scrap to the size required. They were empty and had not been used for years. He got put in intensive care.

If you get anything done I have learned sometimes you have to take some chance. It seems almost daily farming is that way. Yesterday getting under ton sacks of fertilizer to uncork the bottom, if a strap breaks it was my time.
 
Caustic Burno said:
callmefence said:
I've got a propane tank I plan to make a roller out of
The rain last night has me looking at it as today's project. Bought it at auction. When I opened the valve it still had some gas in it. my plan was to remove the valve assembly allowing me to fill it with water to remove all propane before taking a torch to it. A 36 " pipe wrench cheater pipe and sledge have failed to loosen the valve. I think they use a heat sensitive thread sealant on the valves, so we are back to the torch......which gives me the heeby jeebies on a tank that might have some gas trapped inside....I don't want to survive the plague to become a smoking hole in the ground........any ideas

Once you remove or open the valve oxygen is allowed to enter we now have two elements of a bomb. All you now need is a heat source. Propane will auto ignite without a spark at 920 degrees.Hydrocarbon gases and liquids can and will embed in the metal pours of the storage container.
You need to steam the tank out after water washing first and test for LEL before cutting. Water washing alone is not a safe way to completely hydrocarbon free a hydrocarbon storage tank especially when dealing with gases.
http://www.wermac.org/safety/safety_what_is_lel_and_uel.html

I have investigated explosions due to skipping steps to completely hydrocarbon free the vessel for maintenance. No way would I cut the tank without steaming and testing with a LEL gas detector. I have had the misfortune to have to don bunker gear to get guys when things went wrong.
Of all the investigations I have done the last way to go is burned or scalded IMO.

We always purged with nitrogen. We had hoods that you attached to an air compressor outside the vessel. It would make a vortex and you could get a vacuum thru the vessel the further evacuate it.

I have seen a vessel catch fire internally from introducing oxygen in to the system. The line and vessels had been opened but there was enough vapor still coming out of the metal.
 
Check back with us to let us know you survived. I personally would not risk it.

Represented the family of a guy that was given a barrel from work he was told was safe to torch for a grill. It wasn't.....
 
I appreciate everyone's concern. Fwiw in 2014 I was in a explosion that knocked me unconscious and third degree burns. I know to be careful. We salvage bad weather time doing shop fabrication. I've built several BBQ pits from propane tanks. Just can't get this sucker open. Thanks to those who have tried to help by addressing the actual question.
 
Is there more than one valve on it? I assume the valve that you opened is a small port like a needle valve or some thing?

Look up hot tap. They do it on abandoned pipelines when they need to see if there is pressure on them. There are some poor boy ways of doing it that might work.

The best thing is haul it off in the pasture and open it up and let it be for a while. Yes you have some risk introducing oxygen but it's going to be rare that it mixes just right. I would definitely not have it in a barn or shop.

Steam cleaners work better than straight water. It helps move those lels a better.
 
Brute 23 said:
Is there more than one valve on it? I assume the valve that you opened is a small port like a needle valve or some thing?

Look up hot tap. They do it on abandoned pipelines when they need to see if there is pressure on them. There are some poor boy ways of doing it that might work.

The best thing is haul it off in the pasture and open it up and let it be for a while. Yes you have some risk introducing oxygen but it's going to be rare that it mixes just right. I would definitely not have it in a barn or shop.

Steam cleaners work better than straight water. It helps move those lels a better.

There is no doubt there is gas in there. The valve has been open for two weeks. I can still smell it. Usually they sell at auction as BBQ materials, scap tank etc. Due to liability reasons. And the valve assembly is gone. It's several pounds of brass. Leaving about a three inch hole in top. We fill them completely full of water and usually drill the first hole with a drill let it drain and air several days. I can't get the d valve off. Considering sitting it way down in the pasture and shooting a hole in it. Lol I'm not gonna drill a hole until I get the thing filled with water. I'll take a picture shortly.
 
callmefence said:
Brute 23 said:
Is there more than one valve on it? I assume the valve that you opened is a small port like a needle valve or some thing?

Look up hot tap. They do it on abandoned pipelines when they need to see if there is pressure on them. There are some poor boy ways of doing it that might work.

The best thing is haul it off in the pasture and open it up and let it be for a while. Yes you have some risk introducing oxygen but it's going to be rare that it mixes just right. I would definitely not have it in a barn or shop.

Steam cleaners work better than straight water. It helps move those lels a better.

There is no doubt there is gas in there. The valve has been open for two weeks. I can still smell it. Usually they sell at auction as BBQ materials, scap tank etc. Due to liability reasons. And the valve assembly is gone. It's several pounds of brass. Leaving about a three inch hole in top. We fill them completely full of water and usually drill the first hole with a drill let it drain and air several days. I can't get the d valve off. Considering sitting it way down in the pasture and shooting a hole in it. Lol I'm not gonna drill a hole until I get the thing filled with water. I'll take a picture shortly.


I don't know if you can see the bolt on the right. I thought maybe it's a pinch bolt. It's rounded off and looks to be to high to be a pinch bolt.


 
I'd fill it with water, and leave it as full as possible when making your cut.. the less airspace you have the less power there will be if something does light up.. difference between a pop and a kaboom
 
I have never cut into a tank before. But I have read and heard that you can pipe the exhaust from and engine in the tnpk for several hours and then cut. What you are trying to do is rid the tank of oxygen.
 
hurleyjd said:
I have never cut into a tank before. But I have read and heard that you can pipe the exhaust from and engine in the tnpk for several hours and then cut. What you are trying to do is rid the tank of oxygen.

I've done one tank and that is how i did it, felt bloody scared making that first cut. Got a friend who had a petrol tank with a leak, filled it full with petrol and welded it up. Said he's done a few like that and safe. Half full or empty unsafe. I wouldn't be within a mile of someone doing that!
 
Supposed to wash it out if your talking about gasoline...or lpg.....

If you can smell anything, do not cut or weld, if cutting with grinder, easy to do when it has water .... or an inert gas....
 
hurleyjd said:
I have never cut into a tank before. But I have read and heard that you can pipe the exhaust from and engine in the tnpk for several hours and then cut. What you are trying to do is rid the tank of oxygen.
Wont work with these autos that has emission control systems
Needs to be steamed or seal an pump nitrogen and check with an oxygen meter and cut only when there is no oxygen. Good way to get hurt or killed if you don't know what you are doing.
 
BRYANT said:
hurleyjd said:
I have never cut into a tank before. But I have read and heard that you can pipe the exhaust from and engine in the tnpk for several hours and then cut. What you are trying to do is rid the tank of oxygen.
Wont work with these autos that has emission control systems
Needs to be steamed or seal an pump nitrogen and check with an oxygen meter and cut only when there is no oxygen. Good way to get hurt or killed if you don't know what you are doing.

Vehicle produce nitrous oxides that fills the oxygen side of the fire triangle nicely. At 600 degrees NOX decomposes to nitrogen and oxygen. Your catalytic converters are supposed to convert NOX. So you're trusting your life to the efficiency of your converter.
 

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