Best time to buy

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bigbull338":o0jvz1su said:
backhoeboogie":o0jvz1su said:
If you have surplus hay, November and December are typically a good time to buy.

I disagree with the cull theory being discussed. People die all times of the year. You can drive to a sale barn 60 miles from your house and see an entire estate of cattle (good cattle) going through the sale barn. The kids live off somewhere in the city and all they want to do is liquidate. This is very common.

Other times folks pass on in the fall but the kids don't get home until a holiday such as Thanksgiving. Hired hands are running things until then.

Yes there are also animals that are on their last leg and people are dumping them because they do not want to feed hay. You really need to know the difference between culls and deals.
boogie there arnt that meny cattle sell outs round here due to deaths.if there is a herd sellout over half of the cows aint worth taking back to the country.

One a year is more than enough for me BB. Most of the time I am down at a sale atleast 50 miles from home where I know few people and find one by accident.
 
Boogie got one standing in the pasture right now bought last year, kids were dumping Dads herd as fast as they could.
Picked up a baldie six year old for 480 bucks at seven months bred. She has already given me one 600 dollar calf and about to drop the second. I got to the sale late that day, my luck as usual they ran the dispersal through first. I would have packed the trailer if would have been there on time. Word didn't get out or they kept it close to the vest as usually goats go through first.
 
Caustic Burno":1axo0e1e said:
Boogie got one standing in the pasture right now bought last year, kids were dumping Dads herd as fast as they could.
Picked up a baldie six year old for 480 bucks at seven months bred. She has already given me one 600 dollar calf and about to drop the second. I got to the sale late that day, my luck as usual they ran the dispersal through first. I would have packed the trailer if would have been there on time. Word didn't get out or they kept it close to the vest as usually goats go through first.

I know exactly what you mean. Good for you. You would have probably paid more if someone was bidding her up.

Sale barns are an enjoyable thing for me. I have hit Meridian, Dublin, Mineral Wells, Cleburne, and Clifton all in one week while never selling or buying anything. Most weeks I don't have time for such. Maybe when I retire.
 
for 15yrs i was at the sale barn twice a week every week.but i quit an mayve only been to 3 or 4 sales in the last 6yrs.
 
bigbull338":y7dapfmz said:
for 15yrs i was at the sale barn twice a week every week.but i quit an mayve only been to 3 or 4 sales in the last 6yrs.
You're 2 or 3 ahead of me
 
Best time to buy cows in MN depends on your setup and your feed.
Lowest bred cow prices are usually Sept thru Nov. Usually bred cow prices go up noticeably in February but those cows have been fed through over half the winter and so they are worth more. This kind went for an average of $1225 last week.
Lowest heifer prices are usually pasture bred stockers getting found out at the sales barn in August and September. They can go right back to pasture as long as you have chains and handles handy. This kind went for an average of $735 last fall.
 
I really don't think I (or anyone) can tell with a high degree of confidence whether a cow is a good cow by judging her at an auction.

Sure, you can definitely pick out bad ones (age,disease,udder,frame size,disposition)... but there are also bad cows that look appealing. How can you know whether or not a cow has come up open two years in a row, has a history of calving problems, is a good milker/mother, easy keeper, etc?

It's always a roll of the dice, imo.
 
jack1234":x7k5v625 said:
I really don't think I (or anyone) can tell with a high degree of confidence whether a cow is a good cow by judging her at an auction.

Sure, you can definitely pick out bad ones (age,disease,udder,frame size,disposition)... but there are also bad cows that look appealing. How can you know whether or not a cow has come up open two years in a row, has a history of calving problems, is a good milker/mother, easy keeper, etc?

It's always a roll of the dice, imo.

I would have to say horsefeathers, many a man has made a good living on salebarn cattle.
Can you get burned you bet, and I have a few times over the years, but I have came out way ahead on salebarn cows.
You buy 5 to 7 year old heavies odds are someone didn't hold on to them that long with calving difficulties, the udder also speaks volumes. Easy keeper is the easiest if she is a heavy and you buy in the winter as I do. If she doesn't breed back in three months you sell the cow and the calf. The salebarn isn't evil it's our lifeblood. When you go to the salebarn you have to have a discerning eye and it's buyer beware.
Everything you mentioned about the salebarn has been sold through private treaty as well and buyer beware is in full effect here as well.
 
Caustic Burno":28vd096d said:
jack1234":28vd096d said:
I really don't think I (or anyone) can tell with a high degree of confidence whether a cow is a good cow by judging her at an auction.

Sure, you can definitely pick out bad ones (age,disease,udder,frame size,disposition)... but there are also bad cows that look appealing. How can you know whether or not a cow has come up open two years in a row, has a history of calving problems, is a good milker/mother, easy keeper, etc?

It's always a roll of the dice, imo.

I would have to say horsefeathers, many a man has made a good living on salebarn cattle.
Can you get burned you bet, and I have a few times over the years, but I have came out way ahead on salebarn cows.
You buy 5 to 7 year old heavies odds are someone didn't hold on to them that long with calving difficulties, the udder also speaks volumes. Easy keeper is the easiest if she is a heavy and you buy in the winter as I do. If she doesn't breed back in three months you sell the cow and the calf. The salebarn isn't evil it's our lifeblood. When you go to the salebarn you have to have a discerning eye and it's buyer beware.
Everything you mentioned about the salebarn has been sold through private treaty as well and buyer beware is in full effect here as well.

i agree i have heard of alot of the oldtimers around here that can make good money some poeple have a real eye for cattle. as for myself dont have a good eye like they do wish i did but havent spent alot of time looking for cattle for sale either just watch prices is all and work for others who run cattle. this is one of the best things i have heard for the sale barn though most poeple say just watch for good cows. would love to hear more about what you look for to increase your chances of success when buying there if ya dont mind.
 
Lon":2ykq428e said:
this is one of the best things i have heard for the sale barn though most people say just watch for good cows. would love to hear more about what you look for to increase your chances of success when buying there if ya don't mind.

Some folks only buy from dispersal s. I can not fault that.
Some folks never buy singles. I can not fault that.
Some folks look at muzzle width, feet soundness, udder condition, and make a snap decision. Great skill if you have it.
Some folks only buy cheap cows. I think this is risky unless you can bet on a rising market.
Some folks only buy heifers. I think this is risky unless you know the source, or like to eat heiferets.
I think the bottom line is you need to buy them right so you can afford the ones that do not work out.
 
A beginner should be careful when buying a bull. People sell bulls for different reasons - they're not productive, offspring have calving problems, they're aggressive or destructive, like to tear up fences and get the neighbor's cows pregnant, etc. Plus of course the issue of knowing how to safely handle a 2,000 pound animal and the risk that entails.
 
dun":351ppzj1 said:
bigbull338":351ppzj1 said:
for 15yrs i was at the sale barn twice a week every week.but i quit an mayve only been to 3 or 4 sales in the last 6yrs.
You're 2 or 3 ahead of me
I go when I can....it's a great place to get a nap if you can get one of the "good comfortable seats". :lol2:
 
Lon":2pk93g7z said:
Caustic Burno":2pk93g7z said:
jack1234":2pk93g7z said:
I really don't think I (or anyone) can tell with a high degree of confidence whether a cow is a good cow by judging her at an auction.

Sure, you can definitely pick out bad ones (age,disease,udder,frame size,disposition)... but there are also bad cows that look appealing. How can you know whether or not a cow has come up open two years in a row, has a history of calving problems, is a good milker/mother, easy keeper, etc?

It's always a roll of the dice, imo.

I would have to say horsefeathers, many a man has made a good living on salebarn cattle.
Can you get burned you bet, and I have a few times over the years, but I have came out way ahead on salebarn cows.
You buy 5 to 7 year old heavies odds are someone didn't hold on to them that long with calving difficulties, the udder also speaks volumes. Easy keeper is the easiest if she is a heavy and you buy in the winter as I do. If she doesn't breed back in three months you sell the cow and the calf. The salebarn isn't evil it's our lifeblood. When you go to the salebarn you have to have a discerning eye and it's buyer beware.
Everything you mentioned about the salebarn has been sold through private treaty as well and buyer beware is in full effect here as well.

i agree i have heard of alot of the oldtimers around here that can make good money some poeple have a real eye for cattle. as for myself dont have a good eye like they do wish i did but havent spent alot of time looking for cattle for sale either just watch prices is all and work for others who run cattle. this is one of the best things i have heard for the sale barn though most poeple say just watch for good cows. would love to hear more about what you look for to increase your chances of success when buying there if ya dont mind.


I get to the salebarn early and watch them work and preg check, brand inspect the cows, this tells me a lot about disposition as the cows are being worked by strangers. Ones that look good I write down her number. By the time they come through the ring I have looked at that cow three or four times. I know the sellers as well and I watch the obits as well. Jim might bring a good S/S heavy, I know his stock buy the cow on the cheap, sell the calf, rebred the cow and turn her as a heavy. If she has decent teeth, I might keep her two or three more calfs, watching her teeth before she goes back to the barn. I picked up an S/S four years ago for 360 bucks at the barn she gave me four calves before going back to the barn. I don't buy open cows or heifers both are a crap shoot IMO. I don't buy bulls at the barn as I want to see them in the pasture in their working clothes and their progeny on the ground. Most of all you have to be willing to come home with an empty trailer and go back next week. I have got some fine cows over the year reading Jed died and I know the kids are going to be dumping his stock. You need to know the regular sellers at the barn the reason they cull. It amazes me at people that will cull a perfectly good 10 or 11 year old cow to retain a heifer. Until this spring half the girls that were still producing were old enough to vote.

Now here is the best advice I can give you You are a grass farmer first not a cowboy Good grass equals good teeth good BCS and longevity. On good grass a S/S can give you years more of production.

Son it's all about the grass
 
Like Caustic, if I'm in the market for cows, I get to the barn early. I get on the catwalk with paper and pencil and begin gathering info. Find cows that look to be prospects. If she has a calf, I then go to the calf pen and match up mama and calf by finding calf with number one higher than mom to see what kind of job mama's doing with baby. Talk with the guys mouthing and preg checking the cows. When the cow comes in to the sell ring, much of my home work is already done. While others are running the cow up, from a seat with good visibility I continue to look at feet, udder, structure, disposition etc. By then I've made up my mind. I know what I'm willing to pay and usually only bid one or two times. I either get the bid or don't real quick. No point in participating in the run up game.
 
Caustic Burno":2gvvf9ks said:
I get to the salebarn early and watch them work and preg check, brand inspect the cows, this tells me a lot about disposition as the cows are being worked by strangers. Ones that look good I write down her number. By the time they come through the ring I have looked at that cow three or four times. I know the sellers as well and I watch the obits as well. Jim might bring a good S/S heavy, I know his stock buy the cow on the cheap, sell the calf, rebred the cow and turn her as a heavy. If she has decent teeth, I might keep her two or three more calfs, watching her teeth before she goes back to the barn. I picked up an S/S four years ago for 360 bucks at the barn she gave me four calves before going back to the barn. I don't buy open cows or heifers both are a crap shoot IMO. I don't buy bulls at the barn as I want to see them in the pasture in their working clothes and their progeny on the ground. Most of all you have to be willing to come home with an empty trailer and go back next week. I have got some fine cows over the year reading Jed died and I know the kids are going to be dumping his stock. You need to know the regular sellers at the barn the reason they cull. It amazes me at people that will cull a perfectly good 10 or 11 year old cow to retain a heifer. Until this spring half the girls that were still producing were old enough to vote.

Now here is the best advice I can give you You are a grass farmer first not a cowboy Good grass equals good teeth good BCS and longevity. On good grass a S/S can give you years more of production.

Son it's all about the grass

i know a guy that sells his cattle once they are 10 no exceptions. so as a grass farmer, do you fertilize and ad clover to pasture? i seem to have read alot of poeple on here do it but around where i am from no body ever has with either fertilizer or clover in pastures. you do get clover once in awhile if you have a very rainy spring but thats it.
 
I do fertilize my pastures I believe you have to put back, can't keep taking and expect the same results every year.
I send off soil samples every spring and fertilize according to results. Clover is a waste for me and you only get the N back as pee or manure, never could get the cows to line up and fertilize. Rye grass is the ticket here producing the most tonage of spring feed.
 
dun":2rjefpx0 said:
bigbull338":2rjefpx0 said:
for 15yrs i was at the sale barn twice a week every week.but i quit an mayve only been to 3 or 4 sales in the last 6yrs.
You're 2 or 3 ahead of me

I go at least 1, sometimes 2, maybe 3, or 4, rarely 5, have went 6 times a week. Can't find a bargain if you ain't there. :lol2:
 
I think there is a different set of rules and suggestions for the folks that know cattle and can go to the sale barn early evaluate them etc than the rules for a beginner.

For a beginner rather than buying a bunch of cows at the sale barn, I would think your chances of cattle success are better if you buy from a local breeder with a good reputation and who raises cattle the way you want to and for the end use you want (show or beef or weaned calves etc).

Buy a few higher quality (and more expensive) cows from a breeder you trust rather than a larger number of lower cost but unknowns at a sale barn. Tell the breeder what your needs are and let him recommend which cows he suggests you consider... Some breeders tend to sell older cows also. an older cow that knows how to have a calf can be especially useful for a beginner.

Less is often more. jmho. Jim
 

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