When it cost $7400 to replace a dry clutch, I am doing it myself as I don't care if the tractor has two cabs that is highway robbery. Also they will probably put an aftermarket clutch in it at that.
Last edited:
Tractor clutches
- Thread starter 504RP
- Start date
Help Support CattleToday:
It has two fuel filters, changed both of them. Tractor had over 700 hours on it when I bought it. Don't know when or if the filters had been changed before I got it. But I hadn't changed them before now. Know I should have. Only use the tractor to bale with and guess the only excuse I have is I stay busy between working a full time job outside of farming too. Which is no excuse. Tractor has 1280 hours on it now. Only bale 2 sometimes 300 round bales a year. Didn't think I had put that many hours on it.
chevytaHOE5674
Well-known member
7400 is on the high end for a clutch job. But the prices of things in 2023 is thru the roof so I wouldn't expect to get a shop to do it for less than 5k.
Finished one up a few weeks back and the bill was right about 5k.
Finished one up a few weeks back and the bill was right about 5k.
I still believe it is fuel related as my 1999 NH 4630 had about the same issue that has 1200hrs and there was a clog in the fuel line right before you get to the filter. A simple fix, but took me a while to find.
chevytaHOE5674
Well-known member
If engine RPMs are staying steady but the tractor is stopping motion, I would bet my farm it is NOT fuel related.
What you are saying is a clutch and if it is doing what you are saying then it is a clutch, he says it is losing power.
My NH4630 was steady until you put a disc mower behind it and started up a hill. It was not getting enough fuel for the extra power needed.
chevytaHOE5674
Well-known member
Exactly your RPMS were NOT steady then. Loaded fuel demand was more than your clogged system could provide.
It's sounds like the OPs RPMs are holding steady and the tractor is stopping from what I can gather.
For a tractor to come to a complete stop the engine needs to stall, clutch needs to be depressed, or clutch is slipping. None of can be confused for a fuel issue.
If its slipping that bad its best to quit trying to use it before you groove up the flywheel beyond resurfacing.
It's sounds like the OPs RPMs are holding steady and the tractor is stopping from what I can gather.
For a tractor to come to a complete stop the engine needs to stall, clutch needs to be depressed, or clutch is slipping. None of can be confused for a fuel issue.
If its slipping that bad its best to quit trying to use it before you groove up the flywheel beyond resurfacing.
A lot of difference between 5k and $7400. 5k is probably not bad if you used all OEM parts.
If I was in better health I wouldn't hesitate doing it myself. Had a MRI couple of months ago for lower back. Am 3 weeks through physical therapy twice a week that is showing any improvement so far. Doctor says we have to try physiotherapy first.
Scheduled for MRI this coming 24th for suspected tore left rotator cuff then meet with an orthopedic surgeon on the 26 th to review the MRI results. Am pretty sure it is tore. Had surgery on the right shoulder 12 years ago to repair a tore rotator cuff and reattach bicep tendon. Symptoms I am having now is real similar to what I had 12 years ago. The PA done some test called drop arm and others. He thinks I have a tear too. Plus a lot of popping, crackling noise when I move it. And my physical therapist done a couple test and he thinks I have a tear.
Do good to walk from the house to my truck let alone tackle putting a tractor clutch in. 90 % of the time I only see the guy that I relieve at my full time job just long enough for him to fill me in. So I have been able to keep my health issues hidden from my employer. My job is sort of like an air traffic controller in that it is 90 % mental. And that instead on controlling air traffic I control 100's of miles of gas transmission pipe lines.
So I have seen better days with all of this happening at once.
It was steady all the way to not having enough power to pull the disc mower (like a smaller tractor would act) just like his tractor pulling the baler. It ran marvelous.
That's what I am going to do. Was trying to determine what it was before having to pay what it will cost alone to get it there. Would be pretty bad to spend a $ 1000 transporting it to find all it needed was new fuel filters.
chevytaHOE5674
Well-known member
I use OEM seals and bearings and Hy-capacity clutches and pressure plates.
When doing a clutch I replace the engine rear main seal and transmission input seal when possible. Then new clutch and pressure plate, resurface flywheel, new throwout bearing. If the tractor has a drive hub for the PTO/Hydraulics those get replaced as well.
When doing a clutch I replace the engine rear main seal and transmission input seal when possible. Then new clutch and pressure plate, resurface flywheel, new throwout bearing. If the tractor has a drive hub for the PTO/Hydraulics those get replaced as well.
The last MF285 I did the exact same thing (it had no cab or 4wd which made it a lot more simple). Some of these dealers will put an aftermarket clutch in if you don't specify you want OEM. Sounds like a good job.
chevytaHOE5674
Well-known member
You may well have a fuel issue if your running out of power but it would be unrelated to the clutch slipping.
As said if forward motion completely Stops when the engine still running then 1) your foot is pushing on the clutch pedal or 2) the clutch is slipping.
As said if forward motion completely Stops when the engine still running then 1) your foot is pushing on the clutch pedal or 2) the clutch is slipping.
chevytaHOE5674
Well-known member
Many times the OEMs used an outside supplier for the clutches. I've probably put in 100 Hy-Capacity brand clutches over the years and have had real good success.
Loader work is about the worst thing you can do with a dry clutch tractor. Next up is round baling. Both operations involve a lot of clutch slipping everytime its engaged/disengaged. And if you hold in on the clutch (like when wrapping a bale) instead of shifting to neutral that is hard on the throwout bearing and pressure plate fingers.
Loader work is about the worst thing you can do with a dry clutch tractor. Next up is round baling. Both operations involve a lot of clutch slipping everytime its engaged/disengaged. And if you hold in on the clutch (like when wrapping a bale) instead of shifting to neutral that is hard on the throwout bearing and pressure plate fingers.
The engine isn't loading up or pulling down when when I apply the break. The tractor just won't move even if I throttle it up. If it wasn't for the clutch engaging like you have popped the clutch and it just taking off like the clutch is good when I have it in mid or high range in 3rd gear or mid range could be 7th gear and high range 11th gear. I would say for sure the clutch is wore out.
But when it grabs in those two gears for some reason it takes off like nothing is wrong. One and one time only when it done that in 11th gear it even lugged the tractor down and killed it while I was holding the break on.
From what I told you do I have a dry clutch in my tractor ?
chevytaHOE5674
Well-known member
I believe the TL90 was only offered with a dry clutch.
It engaging and holding randomly in a few select gears is puzzling. That tid bit suggests possible a mechanical failure of some sort in the transmission or the shifter.
It engaging and holding randomly in a few select gears is puzzling. That tid bit suggests possible a mechanical failure of some sort in the transmission or the shifter.
From the data I found all they put was a dry clutch in those. Also with 1280 hrs as sorry as these clutches are it would not surprise me if it is not gone or about gone, but your tractor will not lose engine power with a worn out clutch.
TractorData.com New Holland TL90 tractor information
www.tractordata.com
TractorData.com New Holland TL90 tractor transmission information
www.tractordata.com
ThaksFrom the data I found all they put was a dry clutch in those. Also with 1280 hrs as sorry as these clutches are it would not surprise me if it is not gone or about gone, but your tractor will not lose engine power with a worn out clutch.
TractorData.com New Holland TL90 tractor information
TractorData.com New Holland TL90 tractor transmission information
