Tractor clutches

Help Support CattleToday:

Most tractors with cabs are merely a few more linkages and wiring harnesses to disconnect when splitting compared to open stations.
Have a 2001 TL90 NH 1280 hours. Was round bailing hay in August. Tractor started losing power going up slight inclines. Nothing very steep. But seemed like it gradually got worse on the steepest incline.

After finishing bailing I looked at my clutch cable and it was just about adjusted as far out as it could go. Couple days latter I loaded a semi with 38 bales. Clutch seemed fine. No loss of power. Let the tractor idle for 30 minutes or so to let the turbo cool down. Shut it off. Couple days latter went to use it and it wouldn't hardly move in low range. Could see a small increase in speed in 4 Low. It would run a little faster in range II 1 2 3 4. Couldn't tell much difference in speed and power from 1 to 3 and when put into 4 it would go in smooth but jump like as if you popped the clutch. Same thing in high range 1 2 3 all runs about the same speed, shift into 4 again it's runs smooth at first then jumps like the clutch was popped and then runs full speed.

Took it to an incline about a 40 degree incline. And it won't climb it in medium or high range. And can hardly climb it in low rang. Change fuel filters, put new air filters in it. Hydraulic fluid looks good except for some reason it is foaming up ? After it sits and before I start it there is no foam. It was about a half gallon low on hydraulic fluid.

It isn't a shuttle shift. Think it is maybe a dry clutch. Range and gear Select shifts are on the right side of the cab. Has a for ward/ reverse shift in the floor on left side of seat. It's a 4WD Cab.

Was told to try holding the break on to see if the engine would idle up ? In low range 1 through 4 it wouldn't move didn't bog the tractor down.

Mid range same thing would happen 1 2 but in 3rd gear it would all of a sudden jump into gear and take off. Same thing in high range.
Am thinking it is something to do with the clutch, throw out bearing, pressure plate ? I don't know. Any idea from what I have mentioned ?
 
Most tractors with cabs are merely a few more linkages and wiring harnesses to disconnect when splitting compared to open stations.
How would I diagnose what is the problem. It will cost me around $ 400 to just get a service call to come look at it. The clutch cable isn't but about 18 inches long. Was a little frayed but nothing causing it to bind. Went ahead and replaced it.
 
Hydraulic fluid foaming is cavitation so either you are sucking air or have a gap in your hydraulic pump.

TL90 with mechanical shuttle is a dry clutch. I was taught to test them by driving up to a solid object, tree etc. that won't move. Push on it and either tractor should stall or spin if clutch is good. I know the one I had I was constantly adjusting the clutch trying to limp it along. The man I got it from ran it out of adjustment for years and had pretty much run it out of it. Traded it off before I had to replace it. Tractor wasn't a powerhouse so losing power is pretty common. A slipping clutch should actually allow the motor to rev not lug. Sounds like you may have a clutch issue but may have a few other things going on as well.
 
Hydraulic fluid foaming is cavitation so either you are sucking air or have a gap in your hydraulic pump.

TL90 with mechanical shuttle is a dry clutch. I was taught to test them by driving up to a solid object, tree etc. that won't move. Push on it and either tractor should stall or spin if clutch is good. I know the one I had I was constantly adjusting the clutch trying to limp it along. The man I got it from ran it out of adjustment for years and had pretty much run it out of it. Traded it off before I had to replace it. Tractor wasn't a powerhouse so losing power is pretty common. A slipping clutch should actually allow the motor to rev not lug. Sounds like you may have a clutch issue but may have a few other things going on as well.
Thank you for the information.
 
Losing power up a hill? Or slowing down up a hill?

A slipping clutch should allow the motor to maintain RPM while travel speed slows or stops. This can be checked with the loader against something or by standing on the brakes in a higher gear.

A slipping clutch is also most likely to show up in the higher gears first as you are losing mechanical gear reduction advantage.

As for it "popping and taking off" in a certain gear I'm unsure without a better description or seeing it.

As said foam in hydraulic oil is air. Cracked suction line or bad o-ring Is typical cause. Get that checked out as that can chew up aluminum housed gear pumps.
 
Slowing down going up hill. That wouldn't be the same as losing power ? I am not meaning any disrespect and don't mean to come across as being disrespectful by asking the difference between the two. And I appreciate your help in diagnosing my problem. I just don't know how to explain what is doing very well. Thought because it wouldn't pull a incline and was slowing down was because it was losing power.

Do you know about what it will cost to fix it ? And because of its size and weight I will have to have it hauled to and from wherever I get it fixed.

Am guessing it is a dry clutch only because from what I have heard about the gear shifts are in the floor ? And what type of clutch would be best to put back in it.

Again I appreciate your advice and opinions.
 
I did try standing on the breaks while in gear and it would stop it and hold the tractor still in gears 1 through 12. Except when in mid range 3rd gear the breaks would hold it dead still for just a minute until it would act like as if you popped the clutch ( like as if your foot slipped off the clutch peddle ) and the tractor would take off. Would do the same thing in high range while in 3rd gear.
 
In a car you nose it up a hill and try taking off in a higher gear, the car goes nowhere but the motor revs.

Ken
My tractor seems to me like it is doing that very thing except for the engine rev. Which because the throttle can be set to a fixed rpm. The rpm might not rev up if the clutch slips.
 
Losing power would mean the engine is lugging and wont pull. If you increase the throttle your motor speeds up but ground speed doesn't change or doesn't change proportionally then it is clutch related. Slowing down is just a loss of speed but the motor is still producing full power.

My guess would be pars and labor in the $2500 range to have a good mechanic put a clutch in it.
My tractor seems to me like it is doing that very thing except for the engine rev. Which because the throttle can be set to a fixed rpm. The rpm might not rev up if the clutch slips.
Yes if you gave it fuel like you would taking off motor would rev but movement would be sluggish or not at all.
 
Put it in high gear, pop the clutch and hold the brake. You will know if it is spinning. With it losing power when was the last time you changed the fuel filter (also there could be a clog anywhere from the bottom of the tank to the injectors.) I would determine first whether it was mechanical, or fuel related. Every time I had a worn out clutch it had nothing to do with the motor running or power.

This is from one of your first questions.

Have a 2001 TL90 NH 1280 hours. Was round bailing hay in August. Tractor started losing power going up slight inclines. Nothing very steep. But seemed like it gradually got worse on the steepest incline. My 2 cents say fuel related with the loss of power. I am guessing a $25 fuel filter and you change it yourself.
 
Losing power to a mechanic means the engine is physically losing power, lugging down and unable to to maintain a steady RPM. Could be fuel filters, fuel pump, injection pump, turbo, Air filter, worn engine, etc

Engine RPM maintaining and ground speed changing means something is slipping.

Losing power and losing ground speed are two very different things.

Cost depends on a few things. Guessing parts and machine work will run at least 1.5-2k bucks. If it has a loader that adds to the labor cost. Total stab in the dark is another 3k bucks in labor on top of parts.
 
Last edited:
Losing power would mean the engine is lugging and wont pull. If you increase the throttle your motor speeds up but ground speed doesn't change or doesn't change proportionally then it is clutch related. Slowing down is just a loss of speed but the motor is still producing full power.

My guess would be pars and labor in the $2500 range to have a good mechanic put a clutch in it.

Yes if you gave it fuel like you would taking off motor would rev but movement would be sluggish or not at all.
Got a quote this morning from a dealership. $7400. 1000 of that was transport. $ 500 each way. That's using NH parts and resurfacing I think the pressure plate ? Granted it's 60 miles one way. Regardless that's more than I can afford.

Am not sure and guess there is no way of knowing until it is tore down what for sure all of what is or isn't wrong.
 
Losing power to a mechanic means the engine is physically losing power, lugging down and unable to to maintain a steady RPM.

Engine RPM maintaining and ground speed changing means something is slipping.

Losing power and losing ground speed are two very different things.

Cost depends on a few things. Guessing parts and machine work will run at least 1.5-2k bucks. If it has a loader that adds to the labor cost. Total stab in the dark is another 3k bucks in labor on top of parts.
Ok I am thinking it's not losing power but it does have a loader and cab.
 

Latest posts

Top