Stihl bar replacement?

[Stocker Steve]

I have a new 250 saw that binds up after cutting a short while, because the toothed gear on the bar nose locks up.
I can get it to turn by disassembling and working it back and forth for a while, but then it binds up again when I saw.
Do I need to get a new one, or is there a fix?

 

[Aaron]

Keep it greased often. Eventually it will blow apart and you can go buy an Oregon bar.

 

[dun]

I have a new 250 saw that binds up after cutting a short while, because the toothed gear on the bar nose locks up.
I can get it to turn by disassembling and working it back and forth for a while, but then it binds up again when I saw.
Do I need to get a new one, or is there a fix?

I would take it back to whoever you bought the saw from and have them give you a new bar

 

[Nesikep]

that should be under warranty.. make sure the oiler is working!

 

[Supa Dexta]

Sounds like it got pinched in a tree.

 

[Nesikep]

make sure the groove of the bar isn't totally gooped up and clogged.. oil has to get down there,

 

[dun]

I have had a similar problem in the past. It was caused by too much oil and real soft wood dust. The wood dust got so gooped up that the oil couldn;t flow. The other ties have been when cutting close to the ground and grass getting caught up in the sprocket. Same issue as the soft wood dust. If those aren;t the issues I would still take the bar back and have the dealer give you a new one.

 

[jltrent]

Don't run the chain to tight as that will cause excessive heat and is a lot harder on the roller nose and the PTO crank bearing/oil seals. Another problem I have noticed that is very hard on the bar and causes heat build up is a dull chain, keep the chain sharp. Blow the dust off good after each use including disassembling the bar to get it good. As mentioned before hold the bar over a piece of paper and run wide open and see if the oiler is leaving a good streak of oil. Don't just use any oil for the oiler, get what is recommended as it has the proper additives.

If isn't under warranty and the roller in the bar is shot these are good replacements for the money. The chain and bar are good.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/18-Guide-bar-32 ... SwbsBXnP2g

 

[Atimm693]

Remove the chain and scrape out the bar groove with a piece of wire. You will be surprised at how much crap gets built up in there.

If it still binds up after you get it clean, there must be a defect in the sprocket nose.

 

[Stocker Steve]

Thanks.
I will check the oil but I think it is fine.
I will scrap out the groove and try it again.
Our local dealer just closed so warranty will be interesting.

 

[shaz]

Keep it greased often. Eventually it will blow apart and you can go buy an Oregon bar.

I would rather have the Oregon chain as well.

 

[dun]

Thanks.
I will check the oil but I think it is fine.
I will scrap out the groove and try it again.
Our local dealer just closed so warranty will be interesting.

Any Stihl dealer should honor it.

 

[sstterry]

I agree with jltrent. I have the one he posted and it works great!

 

[jltrent]

I agree with jltrent. I have the one he posted and it works great!

I just listed an 025 for sale as I have sold a lot of saws in the past few years. It has one of these bars/chain combo. Here it is. I have at least 30 more saws to list in the next few months and have already sold 10 recently.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/292291581411?ss ... 1555.l2649

 

[sstterry]

Thanks, but I already have all the saws I need

 

[chevytaHOE5674]

Keep it greased often.

Either grease it often or never at all. I'm a logger and work in the woods and never grease the tips just rely on the bar oil, and rarely have tip failures. It's fine if you grease them but once greased they get a "ring" of grease built up and the bar oil won't get down in the bearings, thus the need to grease it often.

 

[Aaron]

Keep it greased often.

Either grease it often or never at all. I'm a logger and work in the woods and never grease the tips just rely on the bar oil, and rarely have tip failures. It's fine if you grease them but once greased they get a "ring" of grease built up and the bar oil won't get down in the bearings, thus the need to grease it often.

Key word is 'rarely'. The only time they happen to me is with cheaper Husky bars, grease or not. Oregon bars are never a problem.

 

[wbvs58]

We have a eucalypt tree here called stringy bark and I have found if you don't keep it revving a bit after you clear the bark on the far side you can get the roller tip all jammed up with the fibrous bark and that includes Oregon bars too which I always buy.

Ken

 

[Nesikep]

Husky and oregon bars are identical, in all the ones I've seen the tips are the same, and the number stampings are even the same except for the actual numbers... makes me think Oregon makes them for Husky and puts a different coat of paint on them.

 

[jltrent]

Husky and oregon bars are identical, in all the ones I've seen the tips are the same, and the number stampings are even the same except for the actual numbers... makes me think Oregon makes them for Husky and puts a different coat of paint on them.

Also Poulan makes a lot of Husky saws. I have rebuilt a lot of them and usually buy Poulan parts as they are cheaper. I read that the re-branded Poulans were their biggest money maker. I am currently rebuilding a nice little Husky 350 1998 model that doesn't have the EPA junk on it. I put an unlimited coil on it and it will flat out run. Just picked up a nice little 141 for $5 and the top end is in great shape, but I will need a burnt out donor cheap. Just rebuilt a 460 and a 450 to like new condition.