Part replacement prior to engine swap

[ClinchValley86]

Fron my understanding, running cool allows more engine wear. These tritons also throw extra fuel during warm up. So the truck things it's in warm-up mode 24/7. It's running pretty rich...better than running lean I suppose.

I'm replacing the fan clutch today, finally got one.

Coolant temp gauge is on the way too.

Has me a little bit stumped if the fan clutch doesn't cure it.

Engine does run great though. I call the swap a success. Boosted mechanical confidence for sure.

 

[chevytaHOE5674]

Thermostat verified to be working properly?

Yes running to cool can cause the PCM not to come out of open loop which generally means it will run rich and not burn clean. Also can lead to reduced power and fuel economy. Also won't pass any emissions tests of its in open loop.

 

[ClinchValley86]

Thermostat verified to be working properly?

Yes running to cool can cause the PCM not to come out of open loop which generally means it will run rich and not burn clean. Also can lead to reduced power and fuel economy. Also won't pass any emissions tests of its in open loop.

Glad you've chimed in here.

I have replaced the fan clutch. Changed thermostat yet again. Engine still isn't getting up to temp. The coler it is outside or the faster I go, the cooler the gauge shows. Heat is barely warm. It's also taking the truck 15 or 20 minutes to get as warm as it going to.

This was an issue on the previous engine as well. It developed after a shop replaced the radiator if I am remembering correctly.

The cooling system had stop leak when I first got the truck. I flushed and flushed. Finally got it clean looking. The heater core though has not been changed. Also, in the mornings when I start out of the driveway I can hear a slight gurgle from thr heater core. It lasts about 5 seconds. Then doesn't do it again til the following morning. No foggy window or coolant in the floorboard. If I'm losing any at all, it is escaping as a gas and haven't noticed a level change.

I'm at a bit of a loss here. I thought about bypassing the heater core for temporary to give that a test of sorts. If it heats up right, I know where my issue is. Think that's worth trying?

Could an oxygen sensor play into this in theory? They're original as well.

I'm going to check codes tomorrow. It has to be throwing a P0125. Previously it was only throwing for EGR, which the new motor isn't equipped with. It was throwing egr codes on the previous motor with an entire new egr everything.

It has to be something that's on the truck. And not on or in the engine. I don't think we reused any of the 99 engine sensors, pretty sure the 2004 engine came with them all in place. So that'd leave the heater core, pcm, heater core/radiator...that's it. Water pump is new, Hoses are new, thermostat is new...

Id hate for this to prematurely kill the low mileage motor.

Apologies for the book.

 

[chevytaHOE5674]

First off have you verified coolant temp with an actual thermometer? Laser thermometer to the water neck and various parts of the engine? Also have you hooked a scanner up to see what coolant temp the pcm is reading? I'd suspect you will get a code like P0125 "Insufficient Coolant Temperature For Closed Loop Control" at some point.

Running too cool means that the thermostat is opening prematurely, or is bypassing somehow. The thermostat actually opens and closes steady while an engine is running to keep it at operating temp.

Have you used a pot of water to verify the thermostat is opening at the correct 190 degrees?

Is the thermostat and O-ring installed properly as to not allow coolant to bypass it?

Does the truck have an oil cooler? Are the hoses routed correctly as to not bypass the thermostat?

 

[Travlr]

Glad you've chimed in here.

I have replaced the fan clutch. Changed thermostat yet again. Engine still isn't getting up to temp. The coler it is outside or the faster I go, the cooler the gauge shows. Heat is barely warm. It's also taking the truck 15 or 20 minutes to get as warm as it going to.

This was an issue on the previous engine as well. It developed after a shop replaced the radiator if I am remembering correctly.

The cooling system had stop leak when I first got the truck. I flushed and flushed. Finally got it clean looking. The heater core though has not been changed. Also, in the mornings when I start out of the driveway I can hear a slight gurgle from thr heater core. It lasts about 5 seconds. Then doesn't do it again til the following morning. No foggy window or coolant in the floorboard. If I'm losing any at all, it is escaping as a gas and haven't noticed a level change.

I'm at a bit of a loss here. I thought about bypassing the heater core for temporary to give that a test of sorts. If it heats up right, I know where my issue is. Think that's worth trying?

Could an oxygen sensor play into this in theory? They're original as well.

I'm going to check codes tomorrow. It has to be throwing a P0125. Previously it was only throwing for EGR, which the new motor isn't equipped with. It was throwing egr codes on the previous motor with an entire new egr everything.

It has to be something that's on the truck. And not on or in the engine. I don't think we reused any of the 99 engine sensors, pretty sure the 2004 engine came with them all in place. So that'd leave the heater core, pcm, heater core/radiator...that's it. Water pump is new, Hoses are new, thermostat is new...

Id hate for this to prematurely kill the low mileage motor.

Apologies for the book.

Is the system pressurizing? It will run cool if not. A lot of people put in a low temp thermostat instead of stock. I don't know about newer engines, but back when they were carbureted they should be running at 210. People are always paranoid if an engine is running close to boiling but that is what they are designed to do. That's why they are pressurized, to keep them below 212.

 

[SmokinM]

Did you use a Ford thermostat? I had a F150 do something similar and I replaced the thermostat same problem. Had several mechanics tell me that those Triton motors you have to use a OEM thermostat. Not sure why. Sold the truck before I got a chance to switch it again so can't say if it worked but was the first thing several mechanics told me.

 

[jltrent]

Did you use a Ford thermostat? I had a F150 do something similar and I replaced the thermostat same problem. Had several mechanics tell me that those Triton motors you have to use a OEM thermostat. Not sure why. Sold the truck before I got a chance to switch it again so can't say if it worked but was the first thing several mechanics told me.

If you can get them, always use an OEM thermostat. I cracked an engine head with a POS aftermarket thermostat. Your engine should heat if the thermostat is opening and closing correctly. Overheating can be a problem in other places which is not your problem. Put a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator and if it heats up then change thermostats.

 

[ClinchValley86]

Did you use a Ford thermostat? I had a F150 do something similar and I replaced the thermostat same problem. Had several mechanics tell me that those Triton motors you have to use a OEM thermostat. Not sure why. Sold the truck before I got a chance to switch it again so can't say if it worked but was the first thing several mechanics told me.

Have tried 4 or 5 brand new motorcraft thermostats now. 192 or 195 degree thermostats.

 

[ClinchValley86]

Is the system pressurizing? It will run cool if not. A lot of people put in a low temp thermostat instead of stock. I don't know about newer engines, but back when they were carbureted they should be running at 210. People are always paranoid if an engine is running close to boiling but that is what they are designed to do. That's why they are pressurized, to keep them below 212.

I'm using 195 degree thermostats. So it should be hovering right around that. That's what they're designed to run at.

It's just throwing me for a loop. Think I'm gonna bypass the heater core today and see of that changes anything. If it has a pinhole on top I can see that maybe causing this problem. Maybe... Seems a Longshot.

 

[ClinchValley86]

If you can get them, always use an OEM thermostat. I cracked an engine head with a POS aftermarket thermostat. Your engine should heat if the thermostat is opening and closing correctly. Overheating can be a problem in other places which is not your problem. Put a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator and if it heats up then change thermostats.

Just because you all are thinking the thermostat, I've ordered the 5th or 6th one.

 

[chevytaHOE5674]

Have you verified the engines actual temperature? Either with a non-contact thermometer or by installing a manual gauge? Also have you hooked a scanner up to see what the PCM is reading for coolant temp?

Why not simply boil test the thermostat?

Also is it installed correctly with the gasket and o-ring correctly. It needs to be sealed up to block coolant flow.

You can have the largest cooling radiator, heater core, fan, etc but none of that matters in engine warm up on cool down.