Recommend a V rake

[SBMF 2015]

We have a Kuhn sr110. They don't call it a speed take for nothing. You can fly with it. We mow with a jd 946 hydro swing. When we rake we are taking one row the same way we mowed and against the other. It doesn't leave any hay.

 

[kentuckyguy]

Here's pics of the one we are looking at.

 

[TennesseeTuxedo]

I'd buy that in a split second.

 

[chevytaHOE5674]

I dislike the Kuhn and others that have the two wheels mounted in tandem on a single pivot arm. The wheels and arms see a lot of stress in rough uneven fields.

Rakes with independently mounted and suspended wheels are far better. The wheels ride smoother and follow the ground better. Also many of them have adjustable down pressure on the wheels.

 

[Down in Dixie]

The Kuhn has a slotted rod that connects the arms and allows them to float that way.

Is that the older generation rake?

Yes it's the older gen

 

[Rgv3180]

I second the issue on independent wheel. Do not get a model that uses two wheels per float arm.
We have a New Holland, and has independent as well as the ability to raise one wheel on each side in the first cutting when the fields are really thick.
On second cutting we can lower that wheel and collect more from a larger area.

 

[farmerjan]

We bought equipment from a friend who has since passed from cancer. Got a 7 on a side wheel rake; total 14..... yes it is long. It has hydraulics and can open out far enough to actually catch 3 windrows.... like late lighter 3rd cutting or sparse hay. Great for cutting number of trips across the field.
Not only opens out to whatever width you want, but is also lifts up and down quickly and easily. The wheels are all independently mounted. I want one that has 5 to a side (10 wheels total) but I want it to be able to open and close width to accommodate the hilly terrain we have so that I can open it farther on a side hill and not have to worry so much about the tractor position with the rake wanting to creep down hill.
The wheels all pick straight up so you can pick up, go out and turn and come back and not have to wait for the arm to lay back down, the wheels just drop straight down.
I love this rake, even with the length.... although I use the old side delivery rake on the Farmall H in the small irregular fields to maneuver easier. No hydraulics, ground driven... but it only gets one windrow at a time so alot of trips over the fields.

I think this wheel rake is an S &W or an H & S or something.... high capacity on the side. Would never have bought it on our own, but it was part of the equipment package when we bought all his equipment.... and I wouldn't trade it for anything.

 

[dvcochran]

I will not tout a certain brand. There are only a handful of manufacturers and a Lot of brand names. I would say whether you are buying new or not try to find something that you have local parts/service for. When you are in need this is priceless.
Here is my experience with common grass hay (in TN).
If the rake is set correctly kicker wheels really don't do much. I even had a chance to run a NH with kickers on front and back. Was Way overkill and just more stuff to break. Basically dead weight.
Get at least a 10 wheel rake that allows you to raise the front wheels if needed for heavy crop.
The newer beam style rakes where each wheel is truly independent are fantastic. They always lift both sides equally (which is awesome). It is so much better that if I could find the valve that does this I would put it on my older rake. Some can operate just one side if needed.
I still run an older CO-OP branded 8-wheel rake when we get a lot of hay on the ground. I have maintained it along the was (rebuilt cylinder, new hoses, tires, teeth). As long as all the teeth are there it does a fine job you just a to keep a closer eye on it. Ugly but very functional.

For me, it would depend on my operation, intentions, time, and abilities to service/maintain myself as to what I would buy.
Can you tell us more about your operation?

 

[hurleyjd]

I will not tout a certain brand. There are only a handful of manufacturers and a Lot of brand names. I would say whether you are buying new or not try to find something that you have local parts/service for. When you are in need this is priceless.
Here is my experience with common grass hay (in TN).
If the rake is set correctly kicker wheels really don't do much. I even had a chance to run a NH with kickers on front and back. Was Way overkill and just more stuff to break. Basically dead weight.
Get at least a 10 wheel rake that allows you to raise the front wheels if needed for heavy crop.
The newer beam style rakes where each wheel is truly independent are fantastic. They always lift both sides equally (which is awesome). It is so much better that if I could find the valve that does this I would put it on my older rake. Some can operate just one side if needed.
I still run an older CO-OP branded 8-wheel rake when we get a lot of hay on the ground. I have maintained it along the was (rebuilt cylinder, new hoses, tires, teeth). As long as all the teeth are there it does a fine job you just a to keep a closer eye on it. Ugly but very functional.

For me, it would depend on my operation, intentions, time, and abilities to service/maintain myself as to what I would buy.
Can you tell us more about your operation?

Go to a Vermeer dealer and order the valves for a WR1012 rake. you may have to change some hoses and ends to match to make them work.

 

[hurleyjd]

The feature that is optional to be able to adjust windrow width from the cab could be useful. If there was a bush hog dealer in my area then that might be the rake for me.

https://bushhog.com/hay_tools/xlrr-i-series-hay-rake/


Optional accessories such as a cab operated hydraulic windrow adjuster kit

 

[kentuckyguy]

I will not tout a certain brand. There are only a handful of manufacturers and a Lot of brand names. I would say whether you are buying new or not try to find something that you have local parts/service for. When you are in need this is priceless.
Here is my experience with common grass hay (in TN).
If the rake is set correctly kicker wheels really don't do much. I even had a chance to run a NH with kickers on front and back. Was Way overkill and just more stuff to break. Basically dead weight.
Get at least a 10 wheel rake that allows you to raise the front wheels if needed for heavy crop.
The newer beam style rakes where each wheel is truly independent are fantastic. They always lift both sides equally (which is awesome). It is so much better that if I could find the valve that does this I would put it on my older rake. Some can operate just one side if needed.
I still run an older CO-OP branded 8-wheel rake when we get a lot of hay on the ground. I have maintained it along the was (rebuilt cylinder, new hoses, tires, teeth). As long as all the teeth are there it does a fine job you just a to keep a closer eye on it. Ugly but very functional.

For me, it would depend on my operation, intentions, time, and abilities to service/maintain myself as to what I would buy.
Can you tell us more about your operation?

I'm just a small time operation. We run about 15-20 cows. Overall I have a put 20 acres to bale but it's broken up in a lot of 5 to 6 acre fields.
I can pretty much work on any farm equipment. I do all the repairs and maintenance on our balers and actually square bale about 700 bales a year with a 1956 new holland 68 baler I went through.

It just seems anymore it's hard for us to get enough dry days to make hay. So when I'm raking and baling by myself the rollerbar rake just takes too much time.

 

[dvcochran]

There are things a Rollabar rake will do that a V-rake will not, mainly turning hay over or moving hay/merging windrows. But they definitely speed up the process even if you are dinking and dunking in smaller fields. This is a good point to reiterate getting a new enough rake that the hydraulics raise both side equally regardless of terrain. Sure does make it easier to keep windrows clean and turns easy.

 

[dvcochran]

Go to a Vermeer dealer and order the valves for a WR1012 rake. you may have to change some hoses and ends to match to make them work.

Do you know what these valves are called? It seems they can divide pressure and flow evenly from one source to two cylinders regardless in changes to the loads on either/both cylinders. If I can figure out what to ask for I am sure a hydraulic supply house will be much cheaper.

 

[Silver]

I would think you'd be looking for a spool type flow divider.

 

[C-Ranch]

OK...I know the V-Rake posting are a year old, but wondering from those who are running the Kuhn carted wheel rakes how they like it in heavy Alfalfa hay? I need to roll two 14ft swaths together, so when the old side bar rake finally gave up the ghost I wanted something much faster and more efficient, so decided to purchase a new SR112 Gen II rake a couple years ago and so far I like it compared to the old side bar rake. HOWEVER, in heavy Alfalfa is tends to ball up at times making it a bear to round bale. I've tried several adjustments, but still seems to want to catch on the last wheel & frame. Also, my baler pick up is 85" across, but tends to leave strips when baling (Heavy Hay). If I adjust the back wheels to narrow it down some it really balls up. In lighter cuttings, it does a fabulous job, no balls and windrows are perfect for the baler, it's just the dang heavy cuttings that I dread having to rake and bale.

Any suggestions? I've seen posts where some have changed the wheels to a bigger wheel, but don't see how the change in height would stop the balling effect. I'm considering on selling the rake and getting one with the rake wheels in front of the tires, but hate to dump an otherwise good rake if I can solve the balling issue and get window rows that are narrow enough to not leave strips.

 

[Atimm693]

I dislike the Kuhn and others that have the two wheels mounted in tandem on a single pivot arm. The wheels and arms see a lot of stress in rough uneven fields.

Rakes with independently mounted and suspended wheels are far better. The wheels ride smoother and follow the ground better. Also many of them have adjustable down pressure on the wheels.

These are my thoughts as well. We have a Vermeer 10 wheel, the front and rear pair of wheels are on a single arm.

If the ground is flat it will work really well, however if you have some whoops or slight rolls in your fields, it will not pick up all the hay.

It is also very sensitive to drawbar height, if you rake with several different tractors like we do, you'll be adjusting the hitch quite a bit. It could really use a setup with more adjustment.

OK...I know the V-Rake posting are a year old, but wondering from those who are running the Kuhn carted wheel rakes how they like it in heavy Alfalfa hay? I need to roll two 14ft swaths together, so when the old side bar rake finally gave up the ghost I wanted something much faster and more efficient, so decided to purchase a new SR112 Gen II rake a couple years ago and so far I like it compared to the old side bar rake. HOWEVER, in heavy Alfalfa is tends to ball up at times making it a bear to round bale. I've tried several adjustments, but still seems to want to catch on the last wheel & frame. Also, my baler pick up is 85" across, but tends to leave strips when baling (Heavy Hay). If I adjust the back wheels to narrow it down some it really balls up. In lighter cuttings, it does a fabulous job, no balls and windrows are perfect for the baler, it's just the dang heavy cuttings that I dread having to rake and bale.

Any suggestions? I've seen posts where some have changed the wheels to a bigger wheel, but don't see how the change in height would stop the balling effect. I'm considering on selling the rake and getting one with the rake wheels in front of the tires, but hate to dump an otherwise good rake if I can solve the balling issue and get window rows that are narrow enough to not leave strips.

I have had trouble with our Vermeer plugging in heavy windrows too. I haven't found a solution. Most carted V-rakes are medium capacity and just won't handle a big windrow without plugging.

Perhaps something could be done with the cart wheels, to make them closer to the frame? Ours will always plug between those and the rake wheels.

 

[Lisagrantb]

Vermeer is good only complaint is the frame/axle is low and catches hay. Huhn is my choice

 

[Stocker Steve]

I have had trouble with our Vermeer plugging in heavy windrows too. I haven't found a solution. Most carted V-rakes are medium capacity and just won't handle a big windrow without plugging.

1) You don't merge heavy windrows. This is what I do.
or
2) You pay up for a merge rake. This is what the BTOs do. In light hay like this year - - they will merge three 12' windrows for the baler.

 

[C-Ranch]

A couple Merger rakes around for the guys who green chop alot. Most of the guys around here run Darf rakes. I like them, but my operation of 165 acres is kinda hard to justify a new one and the used one's are being sold for a reason.

 

[Silver]

Around here there are lots of Sitrex / New Holland wheeled v-rakes.