More Fence Questions

[ChrisB]

What is everyone's opinion of Oklahoma brand barbed wire?

Also, I have about 700 T-Posts to pound in and was thinking about getting one of the spring loaded pounders. Has anyone used one before? If so what is your opinion? It seems to me that you may lose some of the down force if a spring needs to be compressed to push it back up again. Or am I way off in how they work?

Before anyone says to use a loader bucket, that isn't an option where this fence is going.

Bonus points will be awarded if you say that OK. wire is the best since I already bought 30 rolls. ;-)

 

[Limomike]

I have used the OK brand (about 5 rolls of it) and it has held up well. It seems to be good quality stuff. Just dont ever get that 'gaucho' junk.

 

[1982vett]

I'm not sure what your spring loaded pounder is.

For the post driver, get a piece of 2 3/8 pipe about 30 - 34 inches long and weld a 10# sledge hammer on one end (less the handle). It will weigh about 21 lbs.



The one in the picture is 34 inches with a 12# hammer. Weighs 23 1/2 lbs. Also have a lighter version that was my dad's. It has a piece of square stock welded in the end and weighs about 19 lbs.

 

[cfpinz]

Never used a spring loaded pounder, but have wondered the same thing about effectiveness, though. Mine is homemade out of some scrap pipe and 3/4" bent rod for arms.

Limi - please send me all your gaucho, that's my favorite to work with. Only kind I've found that I don't like is Rangemaster, the inside of the spool is not wound very tight and sticks on unrollers. Was unwinding a roll on the back of my 4 wheeler and it threw me up on the handlebars when it wrapped my unrolling rig. Junk!

 

[backhoeboogie]

You can also use an old trailer ball in a piece of 2 inch pipe.

 

[TexasBred]

I have used the OK brand (about 5 rolls of it) and it has held up well. It seems to be good quality stuff. Just dont ever get that 'gaucho' junk.

God...I hadn't even thought of Gaucho in years. Used it one time back in the 70's..Like working with a snake. Somebody better be holding on or it will wrap you up like a spider with a fly. Stretches like a rubber band too and sharp as razor wire. Absolutely worthless in my book.

 

[larryshoat]

I'm not sure what your spring loaded pounder is.

For the post driver, get a piece of 2 3/8 pipe about 30 - 34 inches long and weld a 10# sledge hammer on one end (less the handle). It will weigh about 21 lbs.



The one in the picture is 34 inches with a 12# hammer. Weighs 23 1/2 lbs. Also have a lighter version that was my dad's. It has a piece of square stock welded in the end and weighs about 19 lbs.

Hey vett, that's a great idea to make a post driver . We got a third generation post driver that will wear your but out . No idea where it came from, the ones they sell at TSC are not much . Hopefully I never lose the one we have, but if I do I hope I can remember your idea .

Larry

 

[SRBeef]

For 700 posts to install I would seriously consider either renting, hiring or even buying then selling a tractor mounted hydraulic post driver. They go in straight. May be cheaper than your back surgery.

Here's a link to what I would purchase if I had 700 posts to drive. It will pay for itself - or you will have no trouble selling it when you are done. They say it will drive wood, steel or RR ties!

I have their stump grinder and a very useful cost effective machine. I am gradually reclaiming some woods into pasture. The stumps are a problem - grinder does a good job. I have looked at this driver but just don't have enough fencing to do to warrant it.

Here's the link: http://www.shavermfg.com/Dr.htm

Best of luck.

 

[gertguy]

i got a shaver and it works great. I saw somewhere an air driven t post driver.

 

[J. T.]

I've got a spring loaded driver and it works great unless the ground is extremely hard. I switch to my regular driver on hard ground because you do lose some of the driving force due to the spring action. But it sure alleviates having to lift it every time you drive a post.

 

[Earl Thigpen]

It's absolutely amazing how mis-information gets spread around like this. Gaucho wire is the best product to ever hit the cattle business and it's also a little cheaper than anything else I have found. I use 15 1/2 ga. two point and have some thats been up for thirty years and its STILL not rusted. I've had 6 wt calves run into it at a full run and not break it. And as far as "stretching" it it's not required and it won't "stretch" anyway.

It is high tensil strength wire. If you let it go it will coil up on you. So will any high tensil strength wire. So I don't let it go and have absolutely no problem what-so-ever working with it. The ONLY thing I don't like about the wire is it is not wound on a form which means that when you get down close to the core you need to slow down a bit but thats easily fixed by putting a pipe (I use 4" PVC) and a couple of old dic blades turned out to unroll the wire.

The spring loaded "T" post drivers work OK. It keeps you from having to lift the driver after each down thrust but don't let go of it because it might come flying off the end of the post and hit you on the head. 700 "T" posts with a manual driver? Glad you're doing it and not me.

 

[cfpinz]

It's absolutely amazing how mis-information gets spread around like this. Gaucho wire is the best product to ever hit the cattle business and it's also a little cheaper than anything else I have found. I use 15 1/2 ga. two point and have some thats been up for thirty years and its STILL not rusted. I've had 6 wt calves run into it at a full run and not break it. And as far as "stretching" it it's not required and it won't "stretch" anyway.

It is high tensil strength wire. If you let it go it will coil up on you. So will any high tensil strength wire. So I don't let it go and have absolutely no problem what-so-ever working with it. The ONLY thing I don't like about the wire is it is not wound on a form which means that when you get down close to the core you need to slow down a bit but thats easily fixed by putting a pipe (I use 4" PVC) and a couple of old dic blades turned out to unroll the wire.

The spring loaded "T" post drivers work OK. It keeps you from having to lift the driver after each down thrust but don't let go of it because it might come flying off the end of the post and hit you on the head. 700 "T" posts with a manual driver? Glad you're doing it and not me.

I'm with you, Earl. The stuff I use is 15 1/2 ga 4 pt. The only bad thing I'll say about it is when you have to unwrap an end and retie it later it has a tendency to break. But most wire does. Big deal.

And I can't imagine using a Shaver driver on t-posts. Unlike some of the others on here, I'm not very impressed with mine on wooden posts.

 

[dun]

The stuff I use is 15 1/2 ga 4 pt. The only bad thing I'll say about it is when you have to unwrap an end and retie it later it has a tendency to break. But most wire does. Big deal.

And I can't imagine using a Shaver driver on t-posts.

Next time your by I'll give you a couple 55 gal drums of the stuff. It's cut into 1 foot sections but that shouldn;t be much of a problem for you

 

[gertguy]

i use it on wood post. 5 inch line post ans 6-7 corners. i have a spring loaded t post driver.

 

[1982vett]

How much does on of these spring loaded drivers weigh?

 

[xbred]

a few years ago i bought a hydraulic hand held driver..it worked great, i have about a thousand tee post to put down myself..guess i'll pull it out of the barn and oil it up...about $3-400 i think...

 

[cfpinz]

Next time your by I'll give you a couple 55 gal drums of the stuff. It's cut into 1 foot sections but that shouldn;t be much of a problem for you

With the price of scrap these days, why not take it to the scrap yard? Might get enough out of those drums to gravel that driveway of yours!