Any one have enough engineering knowledge to know why Kuhn can't develop a three point disc mower that has the lower links level when it's disconnected. It's a great mower when it's hitched up, but a pain getting it hitched up.
Kuhn Mower Hitch
- Thread starter Subsoil
- Start date
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My Bush Hog brand also has the same problems and from looking at the Kuhn, I think they use some of the same parts. What I do is like alabama said, I get various size blocks of wood and then once I know how to position them I keep them for that purpose.
Earl Thigpen
Well-known member
My old PZ used to flop over when it was disconnected. Used to get a hi-lift jack under it to hook up.
My new IMA (Yea, Yea, I know. I screwed up) has legs that you let down to hold it level when disconnecting.
My next one is going to be a Vicon, for what it's worth. Might even trade the IMA in this year (two years old).
My new IMA (Yea, Yea, I know. I screwed up) has legs that you let down to hold it level when disconnecting.
My next one is going to be a Vicon, for what it's worth. Might even trade the IMA in this year (two years old).
Cabo
Well-known member
If I will hook up the right lift arm first and the remote hose, I can normally use the two of these to get the left pin the same height as the lift arm. Can be a pain sometimes but once it is hooked up it is one good mower!
Angus In Texas
Well-known member
We had a Krone that did the same thing ..... one of the most frustrating things ever.
rc
Well-known member
I too have a hard time and wondered if it was just me or there was a trick to it. Blocks seem to be the general fix.
Subsoil":28ao205m said:
The older models you need to set on blocks. Even then after hooking up one arm oftentimes you will need to go to the end of the cutter bar and move it eithr forward or backward to swing the other arm around to hook it up. The newer models will stand alone (you won't need any blocks) but you still have to use a similar process to get them hooked up and yes they are one of the harder pieces of equipment to hook up but not that bad.
critterair2
Well-known member
hooking it up isn't too bad for me, its unhooking thats always tough. Have to take a hammer and pound the arms off.
RCP
Well-known member
I got so aggravated I went and bought a quick-a - tatch for the three point, and I have decided it has even made things worse !!! I hate hooking up a disc mower!
cowtrek
Well-known member
Well, there is one alternative... Those mower carts are selling like hotcakes around here! The kind that turn a 3 point cutter into a drag type; kinda looks like the old drag type sickle bar mowers with the offset wheels.
Back up, drop the pin in, hook up the PTO, raise/stow the jack, and hook up the hydraulic hose(s) and off to the field...
Don't forget to grease her up though! Can't make EVERYTHING too easy! OL JR
Back up, drop the pin in, hook up the PTO, raise/stow the jack, and hook up the hydraulic hose(s) and off to the field...
Don't forget to grease her up though! Can't make EVERYTHING too easy! OL JR
cowtrek
Well-known member
This is what I thought of trying... Kinda like a quick hitch but without the risers and cross beam to the three point, but I wonder about the 'up pressure' on the left pin when the mower is raised up for transport, or even if the ground pressure compensating springs are pulling upward on the left link...
http://www.skidsteersolutions.com/Pat_s ... zch1-2.htm
I think that's the primary reason that they're SO hard to hitch up. Most mowers have some kind of compensating system (springs or hydraulic) to reduce ground pressure and drag of the heavy cutterbar extending out to the right side. This is done by either springs or using the lift cylinder to lift up on the cutterbar slightly as it sits in working position. This creates a torque force on the 3 point frame that essentially means that most of the weight of the mower is being carried by the right pin and the left pin is actually pushing upward on the lift arm, because the springs or cylinder is anchored to the top of the 3 point frame and the cutterbar is pulling this to the right, as it tries to put it's full weight on the ground. To demonstrate this, pick a ruler up near one end with the other end extending out to the side like a cutterbar. Put your fingers a couple inches apart and pick it up. One finger closer to the center has to be under the ruler, and the other finger near the end has to be on top. The finger closer to the center is actually holding ALL the weight of the ruler, because the finger near the end actually has to push DOWN on the ruler to pick it up in this position. Same thing with your mower. Added to the fact that most mowers have a pivoting subframe between the 3 point frame and the mower gearbox head and that's a LOT of pivoting to introduce slop in hitching up! Another thing is, when cutting, all the load of pulling the mower through the field is on the right hitch pin. The left hitch pin is actually PUSHING forward against the lower draft link. The mower is sliding on the ground to the right side of the tractor and that drag is transmitted to the three point frame on the left end. The mower tries to 'rotate' (swing back) but it can't because the right pin is pulling it forward through the field, and so it tries to rotate around the right pin but the left pin is pushing against the left draft link so it can't rotate and simply pulls straight forward alongside the tractor...
I experienced this firsthand when the right hitch pin frame cracked on my Zweegers. I had to straighten everything out and weld it back, then welded a reinforcement plate all the way around the left pin hitch frame to beef it up. The left pin actually takes a LOT less force because it has greater leverage, being farther from the center of the mower. The right pin, being closer, takes almost ALL the load in BOTH directions (down and back). Don't believe me, pry down or jump on the left draft link when the mower is raised off the ground, especially in transport position. It will flop around fairly easily, because all the weight of the mower is on the right pin!
For that reason, it kinda scared me to use something like a quick hitch, because the pin isn't actually inside a hole through a ball or lift arm, but is pushing upward on the left hand pin and so pushing upward on the metal 'latch' that holds the pins in a quick hitch setup. The right arm is pushing downward into the hitch's cradle, but that left arm is pulling upward against the latch, and if the roll pin or bolt holding that latch fails.... Or if it somehow retracted or rattled back enough that the pin could jump out of the cradle... Not a good day for you or your mower! Regular implements on a three point usually push down pretty equally on BOTH pins, and transmit draft forces through pulling backwards on the draft links of the tractor. Hay mowers and other offset equipment like that don't.
Just be careful! OL JR
http://www.skidsteersolutions.com/Pat_s ... zch1-2.htm
I think that's the primary reason that they're SO hard to hitch up. Most mowers have some kind of compensating system (springs or hydraulic) to reduce ground pressure and drag of the heavy cutterbar extending out to the right side. This is done by either springs or using the lift cylinder to lift up on the cutterbar slightly as it sits in working position. This creates a torque force on the 3 point frame that essentially means that most of the weight of the mower is being carried by the right pin and the left pin is actually pushing upward on the lift arm, because the springs or cylinder is anchored to the top of the 3 point frame and the cutterbar is pulling this to the right, as it tries to put it's full weight on the ground. To demonstrate this, pick a ruler up near one end with the other end extending out to the side like a cutterbar. Put your fingers a couple inches apart and pick it up. One finger closer to the center has to be under the ruler, and the other finger near the end has to be on top. The finger closer to the center is actually holding ALL the weight of the ruler, because the finger near the end actually has to push DOWN on the ruler to pick it up in this position. Same thing with your mower. Added to the fact that most mowers have a pivoting subframe between the 3 point frame and the mower gearbox head and that's a LOT of pivoting to introduce slop in hitching up! Another thing is, when cutting, all the load of pulling the mower through the field is on the right hitch pin. The left hitch pin is actually PUSHING forward against the lower draft link. The mower is sliding on the ground to the right side of the tractor and that drag is transmitted to the three point frame on the left end. The mower tries to 'rotate' (swing back) but it can't because the right pin is pulling it forward through the field, and so it tries to rotate around the right pin but the left pin is pushing against the left draft link so it can't rotate and simply pulls straight forward alongside the tractor...
I experienced this firsthand when the right hitch pin frame cracked on my Zweegers. I had to straighten everything out and weld it back, then welded a reinforcement plate all the way around the left pin hitch frame to beef it up. The left pin actually takes a LOT less force because it has greater leverage, being farther from the center of the mower. The right pin, being closer, takes almost ALL the load in BOTH directions (down and back). Don't believe me, pry down or jump on the left draft link when the mower is raised off the ground, especially in transport position. It will flop around fairly easily, because all the weight of the mower is on the right pin!
For that reason, it kinda scared me to use something like a quick hitch, because the pin isn't actually inside a hole through a ball or lift arm, but is pushing upward on the left hand pin and so pushing upward on the metal 'latch' that holds the pins in a quick hitch setup. The right arm is pushing downward into the hitch's cradle, but that left arm is pulling upward against the latch, and if the roll pin or bolt holding that latch fails.... Or if it somehow retracted or rattled back enough that the pin could jump out of the cradle... Not a good day for you or your mower! Regular implements on a three point usually push down pretty equally on BOTH pins, and transmit draft forces through pulling backwards on the draft links of the tractor. Hay mowers and other offset equipment like that don't.
Just be careful! OL JR
RCP
Well-known member
Well I used mine all season with no problems except the hooking up. ( Which was my original problem )When using the quick hitch, in order for it to work as designed the pins have to be level as well as at the right pitch at the toplink connection. Most of the time all that doesn't happen. Right now, I have been swinging it from an A frame and setting the cutter bar on pallets. I am making plans to buy a drum mower, and my kuhn will just be for a backup.
RCP
RCP
rc
Well-known member
I like the looks of that.
