JD 5525 fuel issues

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SmokinM

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I keep having trouble with this tractor when it sits for more than a week or so. I start it and it fires right off, runs for maybe 15-20 seconds then shuts off because it runs out of fuel. Obviously it is losing prime somehow but not sure where or how. Fuel line looks good and no leaks anywhere. When it is running no smoke or indicators it is sucking air somewhere. Is there a check valve somewhere I am missing that may need to be replaced.

Other problem is this thing is a b"#&$ to bleed thru. The pump on top of the filter assembly doesn't want to pump up fuel like it should. I end up having to put an air nozzle in the tank and trying to push fuel thru the system that way but that is not very efficient. Are these pumps rebuildable? Any reason why a primer bulb like a boat fuel line has couldn't be installed?

Thanks for any ideas and help.
 
Probably a lot different, but I have a JD5210 when I change fuel filters is hard to get back started. I park it on a steep hill front downhill as the tank is behind the cab, fill it full to the top and pump the hand pump that acts like it doesn't work forever and when I just about give up it starts. Also I bleed at the pump and the injectors and still is a bear.

I would blow air back through the line from the filter back to the tank. Take pipes around the filter and the filter housing off and check close for any clogging. I had a 4630 that had a small clog right when fuel went into the filter was the problem. Check all the lines good. If that doesn't help have the injectors tested for free. The last resort is the pump.

I have a Ford 3600 that started good, but after setting a while was hard to start. I found an OEM CAV rebuilt injection pump that a guy had listed on Ebay that at one time worked for Acme diesel, put on the tractor and it runs like new again.


Does the tractor have a lift pump as mine doesn't as it could be getting weak on pressure.
 
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Add an electric fuel lift pump on the right side before the water separator. Power it from the shutoff solenoid on the injector pump. Original design depends on injector pump to lift fuel from the tank and does not work if there is ANY air infiltration. And that priming system is a pain. Seems like the tank needs to be FULL if the priming system has any chance of working. I have not had any issues after adding an electric pump on my 5520. Cheaper than chasing and fixing small air leaks and more reliable.

Also the coolant temperature switch that operates the cold timing advance on the injector pump on those tractors will eventually short out internally and blow the fuse to the shutoff solenoid. Easy replacement of the switch. When the fuse keeps blowing, replace the switch.
 
Add an electric fuel lift pump on the right side before the water separator. Power it from the shutoff solenoid on the injector pump. Original design depends on injector pump to lift fuel from the tank and does not work if there is ANY air infiltration. And that priming system is a pain. Seems like the tank needs to be FULL if the priming system has any chance of working. I have not had any issues after adding an electric pump on my 5520. Cheaper than chasing and fixing small air leaks and more reliable.

Also the coolant temperature switch that operates the cold timing advance on the injector pump on those tractors will eventually short out internally and blow the fuse to the shutoff solenoid. Easy replacement of the switch. When the fuse keeps blowing, replace the switch.
Good information as I have had to replace the shutoff solenoid on mine also.
 
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IMG_1213.png

is something like this what I am looking for? Got a particular one that you like? Thanks for all the help guys.
 
Installation on 5520. A tractor mechanic told me that a fuel pump would solve my problem. He put this one on. I don't see a label, but hard to see around the loader and bracket. Been good for probably 10 years.

fuel pump.jpg
 
He tied the power into the wire to the injector pump. Purple wire to new fuel lift pump tied into the factory red wire to injector pump. Looks like I need to check his insulation.
wiring.jpg
 
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Temperature sensor on the radiator hose neck that wires to the cold start feature on the injector pump. It will eventually fail and blow the fuse to the injector pump. Temporary fix is to just disconnect that quick connect plug and replace fuse until you can get a new sensor. No cold timing advance while it is disconnected.
sensor.jpg
 
Pumping the lift pump by hand, did you rotate the engine a bit to move the camshaft to a lower spot so the manual lever has more stroke to it?

Ken
 
Pumping the lift pump by hand, did you rotate the engine a bit to move the camshaft to a lower spot so the manual lever has more stroke to it?

Ken
No,I am not that smart, thanks for the tip. Although the way the primer works on this one I am not sure that matters. It is more of a pump on top of the filter assembly than the lever on the side some have.
 
Temperature sensor on the radiator hose neck that wires to the cold start feature on the injector pump. It will eventually fail and blow the fuse to the injector pump. Temporary fix is to just disconnect that quick connect plug and replace fuse until you can get a new sensor. No cold timing advance while it is disconnected.
View attachment 39413
That new sensor for my 5425 has been sitting on the dash of my truck for two winters. It seems to work fine without it, and that tractor gets ran every day.
 
If I remember correctly, my cousin said that some of those E series type tractors came with fuel pump from the factory and they had retrofitted several others as shown above. The two that my folks have are almost impossible to bleed if they don't have full tanks of fuel. I like the looks of the steel pump above more so than the plastic one, simply because of the vibration and temperature swings it's going to be exposed to.

On a side note, my Cat pulled a piece of trash into the pickup line the other night and cut off right in the middle of the driveway heading up to our house. Not a good feeling when you've got 12k lbs of hydrostatic driven crap blocking your driveway....
 
Well at least the CAT is easy to get restarted once you get the line clear. The only worse feeling is when you have the arms blocking the door and load that can't simply be lowered. I was trying to load my old beam post driver with the 262 way back when and it twisted and spun where it was chained. Had to call my buddy to come let me out by unhooking it. 🤬
 
I keep having trouble with this tractor when it sits for more than a week or so. I start it and it fires right off, runs for maybe 15-20 seconds then shuts off because it runs out of fuel. Obviously it is losing prime somehow but not sure where or how. Fuel line looks good and no leaks anywhere. When it is running no smoke or indicators it is sucking air somewhere. Is there a check valve somewhere I am missing that may need to be replaced.

Other problem is this thing is a b"#&$ to bleed thru. The pump on top of the filter assembly doesn't want to pump up fuel like it should. I end up having to put an air nozzle in the tank and trying to push fuel thru the system that way but that is not very efficient. Are these pumps rebuildable? Any reason why a primer bulb like a boat fuel line has couldn't be installed?

Thanks for any ideas and help.
My 5525 must be primed if the tractor sits for a couple of weeks, as long as I remember to give it a few pumps prior to starting, I never have any issues.
 
That new sensor for my 5425 has been sitting on the dash of my truck for two winters. It seems to work fine without it, and that tractor gets ran every day.
Notice any tone difference when you start on a colder day? My sensor has been disco'd for two years and I seem to notice a slighly difference in the engine sound when she starts (5320)
 
I keep having trouble with this tractor when it sits for more than a week or so. I start it and it fires right off, runs for maybe 15-20 seconds then shuts off because it runs out of fuel. Obviously it is losing prime somehow but not sure where or how. Fuel line looks good and no leaks anywhere. When it is running no smoke or indicators it is sucking air somewhere. Is there a check valve somewhere I am missing that may need to be replaced.

Other problem is this thing is a b"#&$ to bleed thru. The pump on top of the filter assembly doesn't want to pump up fuel like it should. I end up having to put an air nozzle in the tank and trying to push fuel thru the system that way but that is not very efficient. Are these pumps rebuildable? Any reason why a primer bulb like a boat fuel line has couldn't be installed?

Thanks for any ideas and help.
i have a 20 year old JD 5525. i have had the same problems. there is a check valve before the small inline fuel filter that helps a little. keep your tank full as much of the time as you can will help. i have heard that you can install a fuel pump(after market is much cheaper that will help the problem)

I have had algae/slime problems clogging my tank at the bottom and have had to have the tank drained and pressure washed. i was told that i should treat my fuel with a proper diesel treatment for the slime/algae problem and have started doing so. not regular diesel treatment, this is a higher priced treatment and you need to treat your storage tank also. i was told that since they started using plastic tanks on tractors that it encourages the tank to "sweat" when left and not "full". still treat for water also.

i now keep my tank full and treated and my fingers crossed. i have dealt with this for about 3 years. now i have been in recovery for 6 months.
remember you can't bleed the system unless it is "full" because of the design and location of the tank. The tractor has served me well for over 20 years except for this design flaw on the fuel. hope this helps. let me know if i can help.....i have felt your pain
 
Installation on 5520. A tractor mechanic told me that a fuel pump would solve my problem. He put this one on. I don't see a label, but hard to see around the loader and bracket. Been good for probably 10 years.

View attachment 39408
thanks for the picture. i have a 5525 but having problems, gives me ideas on mounting
 
Notice any tone difference when you start on a colder day? My sensor has been disco'd for two years and I seem to notice a slighly difference in the engine sound when she starts (5320)
Not really. It might smoke a little more for just a minute or two. Any time temps are under 20 it gets plugged in. Then it's no big deal.
 

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