Jacking up a cattle trailer

[dcara]

I am looking at a 15 yr old dual axle (w/ brakes but not connected) GN stock trailer. New paint and floor for $1000 and no serious rust problems on the underneath. Only problem is that my F250 4x4 sits a little high and causes a good bit of slope on the trailer. This slope causes the trailer's rear end to be maybe 3 inches off the ground and the the storage area to barely clear the sides of my truck box. If I go through much of a dip the rear of the trailer drags and if I turn on unlevel ground the trailer storage area can hit the sides of my box. Local mechanic said maybe he could flip the trailer springs or put them on top of the axles to get more clearance. He hasn't seen it yet but said it would likely cost $300-$500. Alternately, I could change the 4 inch blocks on my truck to 2 inch blocks for about $160 but lowering the truck 2 inches only buys me about another 3inch clearance at the rear of the trailer. I have a few questions I'd like to get ya'lls comments on.

1)What is maximum height the trailer should be for a low risk loading cattle. I was thinking maybe no more than 18 inches but not really sure.
2)Has anyone else ever jacked a trailer up by repositioning the springs or other means? What works best.
3)General thoughts and comments appreciated

 

[jnowack]

I have the same problem with my 12' trailer but the back end doesn't stick over the axles much so it does no drag but it gets a little too close to the tailgate at times. I have seen the springs put on top of the axles and have thought about doing it. The one I saw looked a little odd. Have you thought about putting a flat bed on your truck and just shortening the stem on the trailer hitch to level it out?

 

[dun]

I just use a dropped hitch on mine. The top of the ball is 16" and I think that's pretty much standard with most trailers.

dun

 

[dcara]

...GN stock trailer...

Clarification. The "GN" was my abbreviation for goose neck.

 

[dun]

...GN stock trailer...

Clarification. The "GN" was my abbreviation for goose neck.

Aha, I see said the blind man. Your hitch on the truck is so high that you can;t lower/shorten the the hitch tube on the trailer?

dun

 

[dcara]

Yes Dun, thats correct. And even though the Stem on this trailer is not adjustable, if I were to cut a section of the stem out and weld it back together then the up-front storage area of the trailer that the stem is connect to would be sitting down inside the bed of my F250 so I couldn't make any turns.

 

[hurleyjd]

I am looking at a 15 yr old dual axle (w/ brakes but not connected) GN stock trailer. New paint and floor for $1000 and no serious rust problems on the underneath. Only problem is that my F250 4x4 sits a little high and causes a good bit of slope on the trailer. This slope causes the trailer's rear end to be maybe 3 inches off the ground and the the storage area to barely clear the sides of my truck box. If I go through much of a dip the rear of the trailer drags and if I turn on unlevel ground the trailer storage area can hit the sides of my box. Local mechanic said maybe he could flip the trailer springs or put them on top of the axles to get more clearance. He hasn't seen it yet but said it would likely cost $300-$500. Alternately, I could change the 4 inch blocks on my truck to 2 inch blocks for about $160 but lowering the truck 2 inches only buys me about another 3inch clearance at the rear of the trailer. I have a few questions I'd like to get ya'lls comments on.

1)What is maximum height the trailer should be for a low risk loading cattle. I was thinking maybe no more than 18 inches but not really sure.
2)Has anyone else ever jacked a trailer up by repositioning the springs or other means? What works best.
3)General thoughts and comments appreciated

I have a 23 foot fifth wheel travel trailer that has spacers between the axle and the springs to make it higher. both are under the springs. The spacers are around 9 inchs long. You might think about adding a sub frame under the trailer made from 6 to 8 inch angle iron and attach the running gear to it. The only problem I can see with the springs under the axle and also on the trailer I have is the leverage the springs and the spacers can add to the springs when you hit a chug hole curb or something like that. Could make it easy to break a spring.

 

[dun]

Yes Dun, thats correct. And even though the Stem on this trailer is not adjustable, if I were to cut a section of the stem out and weld it back together then the up-front storage area of the trailer that the stem is connect to would be sitting down inside the bed of my F250 so I couldn't make any turns.

I haven;t paid any attention to turks in years. I wonder if this is one of Fords better ideas that will be gone quickly, kinda like chevys quadrasteer.

dun

 

[kjones]

If your trailer has leaf springs that mount under the axles,its not that hard to reposition on top. You can simply roll the axle so the spring pearch is on top. You may need different u bolts depending on the original application. A better way would be to not roll the axle, but to use a new spring pearch on top. This way the brake shoes are oriented in the factory manner. If the trailer has torsion axles the project is more difficult. Fabrication of new mounting points would raise the trailer. This can be done by building a subframe as mentioned in an earlier reply. The sub frame would go between the axles and thier original mounting points, like the blocks on the rear of your truck. Good luck with your project, which ever way you go.

 

[flaboy-]

I would recommend against rolling the axle or even putting the springs on top of it especially on a stock trailer. I have done it on two 5th wheel campers for the same reason and they are NOT very stable that way. If you roll the axles and use the same perches (as mentioned) the brakes are in the wrong position and the arc of the axle is reversed and that will cause really bad tire wear.

I have a similar problem on my 04 4x4 and my stock trailer. I use one of those mounts that have the bed rails and I install a 5th wheel or gooseneck hitch into the rails. The problem is with the gooseneck hitch, it makes the pin about 4 inches higher than it should be and I have all the adjustment out of the neck of the trailer (lower all the way). I am thinking seriously about installed one of those "in the bed" recessed gooseneck balls. That will lower the nose of the trailer a good bit.

My problem is when I adjust the brakes where they need to be I will slide the front tires with the electric brake because of this steep angle.

Oh, one more story. Hauling horses this past weekend. Dog got caught up in the break-away emergency brake and pulled the cable while I was running 60MPH. Left front tire on the trailer locked and I burned a hole in that puppy about 6 inches wide before I could get stopped. New tires too :x Lesson, don't hook it up if ya gotta carry a dog in the truck.

 

[kjones]

I stated in my first reply, rolling the axles would orient the brake shoes different from the factory. I have seen this done with a 30 foot toy hauler camp trailer though, and it was done by the dealer. Placing the springs on top of the axle would only raise the center of gravity by about 4 inches. Even with leaf springs, a fabricated subframe would be best. This would eliminate any added lever action by placing the springs on top. Idealy we would be able to find trailers designed to fit better but until then we do what we can.

 

[hurleyjd]

I am looking at a 15 yr old dual axle (w/ brakes but not connected) GN stock trailer. New paint and floor for $1000 and no serious rust problems on the underneath. Only problem is that my F250 4x4 sits a little high and causes a good bit of slope on the trailer. This slope causes the trailer's rear end to be maybe 3 inches off the ground and the the storage area to barely clear the sides of my truck box. If I go through much of a dip the rear of the trailer drags and if I turn on unlevel ground the trailer storage area can hit the sides of my box. Local mechanic said maybe he could flip the trailer springs or put them on top of the axles to get more clearance. He hasn't seen it yet but said it would likely cost $300-$500. Alternately, I could change the 4 inch blocks on my truck to 2 inch blocks for about $160 but lowering the truck 2 inches only buys me about another 3inch clearance at the rear of the trailer. I have a few questions I'd like to get ya'lls comments on.

1)What is maximum height the trailer should be for a low risk loading cattle. I was thinking maybe no more than 18 inches but not really sure.
2)Has anyone else ever jacked a trailer up by repositioning the springs or other means? What works best.
3)General thoughts and comments appreciated

Here is one solution that I can think of along with the previous posts on this site. Check with a good welding shop or trailer repair place in your area to see what it would cost to cut the gooseneck tongue off of the trailer and reposition it on the trailer to make the trailer level. This would make it a custom fit for your truck and if you swapped for another truck then the tongue would have to be repositioned to fit that truck.

 

[DiamondSCattleCo]

I throw another vote in with the subframe, although you may be able to simply get away with 8 blocks at each spring shackle location (where the spring bolts to the frame of the stock trailer). I didn't see how long the trailer was, but if its a small one, you can safely put the axles under the springs.

Rod

 

[Saltydawg]

Unless you really know what you're doing I would also recomend NOT messing with the spring/axle geometry.

It sounds as though your down tube for your hitch is as low as it can be without modifying the bed of your pickup (or the actual arm of the trailer which is more than most can do).

Lowering the mounting points of your spring/axle relative to your frame is the safest way to get those extra inches you need.
Again however, if you're not a competant fabricator and welder I would farm this work out to someone who is.

Flat bed trucks make great tow vehicles

 

[Running Arrow Bill]

I am looking at a 15 yr old dual axle (w/ brakes but not connected) GN stock trailer. New paint and floor for $1000 and no serious rust problems on the underneath. Only problem is that my F250 4x4 sits a little high and causes a good bit of slope on the trailer. This slope causes the trailer's rear end to be maybe 3 inches off the ground and the the storage area to barely clear the sides of my truck box. If I go through much of a dip the rear of the trailer drags and if I turn on unlevel ground the trailer storage area can hit the sides of my box. Local mechanic said maybe he could flip the trailer springs or put them on top of the axles to get more clearance. He hasn't seen it yet but said it would likely cost $300-$500. Alternately, I could change the 4 inch blocks on my truck to 2 inch blocks for about $160 but lowering the truck 2 inches only buys me about another 3inch clearance at the rear of the trailer. I have a few questions I'd like to get ya'lls comments on.

1)What is maximum height the trailer should be for a low risk loading cattle. I was thinking maybe no more than 18 inches but not really sure.
2)Has anyone else ever jacked a trailer up by repositioning the springs or other means? What works best.
3)General thoughts and comments appreciated

Excuse my candor, please... ;-)

First, essentially all 4x4 trucks are higher as you know. If it were me, I'd either look for another GN trailer, or use a different truck that was the right height. Livestock trailers should be relatively level for safety and livestock comfort. Modifying the suspension and/or axle system of a stock trailer is possibly looking for a wreck to happen... We like to keep our trailer floors around 12" off ground to make it easy for cattle and horses to enter/exit. Also, the lower the center of gravity of the trailer (while allowing proper ground clearance) is safer all around.

 

[SaskHerf]

Had a neighbor that just put bigger rubber on the trailer... might cost a fair bit to change rims and tires, but he said it pulled ALOT better with the bigger rubber. If i remember he had 16" on it and went to 18" i think.. guess it would depend on whether you had the fender clearance.

 

[cmjust0]

If this is a trailer you're "looking at," then I'd save myself the trouble and stop looking at it. Then, I'd start looking for a bumper pull and a drawbar with a 4-6" drop.

Or, you could put the truck back to stock height.. Maybe I'm misreading something, but my understanding is that you've got a 4" lift on it.. If so, then I'd wager that you're running 35" tires or something similar which require at least 2" of lift.. I'm guessing that the sizeable investment you've made in tires (and wheels, perhaps?) could be why you mentioned going from 4" to 2" -- not 4" to 0"..

Am I way off base here?

 

[dcara]

I talked to a mechanic the other day that told me they decide at the factory which trucks need 4" blocks and which ones need 2" blocks based on a drive shaft vibration test they do. The trucks generally get the 2" blocks unless they think the truck has to much drive shaft vibration, then they put on the 4" blocks which changes the angle of the driveshaft to differential pinon which seems to stop the vibration. He said he has replaced a couple of dozen 4" blocks with 2" blocks over the past 5 years. About half of them developed a vibration and so he had to go back and re-install the 4" blocks to get rid of it. Hence, I think I'll stay with my 4" blocks.

Thanks for all the ideas folks. The trailer is being offered to me by an old friend, and I'd like to help him out if there's anyway I can make this work satisfactorly without spending more than is reasonable.

 

[Saltydawg]

Well I'd park the entire rig on a level surface and jack the back end of the trailer up till it sits "right" and see where you're at.

You might get away with a combination of bigger wheels and tires and modest lift between the spring mounts and trailer frame.
Without actually getting a good look at the rig and some measurements though it's hard to make any sort of educated recomendation.

 

[john250]

I talked to a mechanic the other day that told me they decide at the factory which trucks need 4" blocks and which ones need 2" blocks based on a drive shaft vibration test they do. The trucks generally get the 2" blocks unless they think the truck has to much drive shaft vibration, then they put on the 4" blocks which changes the angle of the driveshaft to differential pinon which seems to stop the vibration. He said he has replaced a couple of dozen 4" blocks with 2" blocks over the past 5 years. About half of them developed a vibration and so he had to go back and re-install the 4" blocks to get rid of it. Hence, I think I'll stay with my 4" blocks.

Thanks for all the ideas folks. The trailer is being offered to me by an old friend, and I'd like to help him out if there's anyway I can make this work satisfactorly without spending more than is reasonable.

Anytime you alter the geometry of the driveline you increase your maintenance cost exponentially. Take the lift out of your truck, unless you can justify it as a toy. Don't try to alter the trailer. No one (to my knowledge) makes a trailer to work with a lifted truck. And it just plain sounds dangerous. I'd like to see you posting here in the future. :lol: