Ford 3.5L Ecoboost

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Got an opportunity to buy a well maintained 2011 f150 with the ecoboost motor. It has 113k miles. It's a crew cab truck with a 6.5' bed.

Was wondering what yall thought about them.

Truck drives real good. I imagine it drives like a new one.
 
Wife has a 2014 with about 135k mi. on it now. It is impressive and has been a fantastic truck. The power is phenomenal. I wish I could replace my 5.4 triton in my f250 with the v6. If the price is right and you need a truck I wouldn't hesitate.
 
I would want to know if the cam phasers has been done, and if so when.
I don't think they've been touched. Neither has the transmission been serviced. Shifts good though.

Upon bringing it home, service all fluids for sure. Do these cam phasers need to be replaced asap? Anything else they're notorious for?

It has a strange vibration from the rear and comes and goes about nonstop. Not intense or anything. I feel like it's the carrier bearing. Easy enough fox for that I that's indeed what it is.
 
Wife has a 2014 with about 135k mi. on it now. It is impressive and has been a fantastic truck. The power is phenomenal. I wish I could replace my 5.4 triton in my f250 with the v6. If the price is right and you need a truck I wouldn't hesitate.
I've pulled 4 cows with it and thought it handled them pretty good myself.
 
I don't think they've been touched. Neither has the transmission been serviced. Shifts good though.

Upon bringing it home, service all fluids for sure. Do these cam phasers need to be replaced asap? Anything else they're notorious for?

It has a strange vibration from the rear and comes and goes about nonstop. Not intense or anything. I feel like it's the carrier bearing. Easy enough fox for that I that's indeed what it is.
If it is not making a tapping noise at an idle that gets quiet as you give it gas then the phasers are fine. They also will be quiet cold then noisier after it warms up. They tend to go bad in vehicles not well maintained or started and shut off a lot as they fail due to lack of oil pressure. Ford even has a threshold for noise before they recommend changing. Keep the oil clean and run good oil in it and it should run a long time. I think you will really enjoy it.
 
Upon bringing it home, service all fluids for sure. Do these cam phasers need to be replaced asap?
They don't need to be replaced until they rattle fairly badly. There was a recall on them at one time, but a lot of the were replaced with the same crappy phasers. Eventually they came up with a far superior phaser that seems to be lasting. If it has the original style phasers in it they will go at some point regardless of maintenance. Up here it's several thousand dollars to have done at a dealer. It's worth looking into wether they have been replaced and with which ones IMHO.
 
Cam phasers are the biggest issue. It's a very expensive repair, pretty labor intensive and the parts aren't cheap. Typically 3-4k, the chains, tensioners, and phasers are all replaced just to eliminate the possibility of a failure down the road. The phasers allow the cam timing to be adjusted on the fly, and are actuated hydraulically with engine oil pressure. They have a locking mechanism that is supposed to lock them in place when oil pressure is lost, that is most often what fails. The result is a loud hammering noise on startup from the phaser slamming stop-to-stop until oil pressure is present.

The 6R80 is a good transmission but they are known to shudder. It'll feel like hitting the rumble strip for a split second as the converter locks and unlocks, usually under slight acceleration at mid-high speed. The fluid in them is really thin, many times a fluid change will fix it, and it should be changed pretty often, 30k miles or so.

Turbos are known to have issues here and there but it's not widespread. Coil packs and spark plugs are common failures as well, ignition needs to be tip-top in a turbocharged engine.

Performance wise they are great for towing and doing truck stuff. I have the smaller version (2.7) and it tows better than any V8 half ton I've had, the torque peak is right where it needs to be, right around 3000RPM. I get 19-20mpg average out of it.
 
Best engine I've owned for performance, especially paired with the 10 speed. That being said I also had cam phaser issues. Dealer told me they see it alot for people that tow heavy and work the truck. He said 10k mile oil change in the book is only for people that highway drive. If I change at 5k I shouldn't have issues even if I work it. I've stuck to that and no issues so far.
 
Cam phasers are the biggest issue. It's a very expensive repair, pretty labor intensive and the parts aren't cheap. Typically 3-4k, the chains, tensioners, and phasers are all replaced just to eliminate the possibility of a failure down the road. The phasers allow the cam timing to be adjusted on the fly, and are actuated hydraulically with engine oil pressure. They have a locking mechanism that is supposed to lock them in place when oil pressure is lost, that is most often what fails. The result is a loud hammering noise on startup from the phaser slamming stop-to-stop until oil pressure is present.

The 6R80 is a good transmission but they are known to shudder. It'll feel like hitting the rumble strip for a split second as the converter locks and unlocks, usually under slight acceleration at mid-high speed. The fluid in them is really thin, many times a fluid change will fix it, and it should be changed pretty often, 30k miles or so.

Turbos are known to have issues here and there but it's not widespread. Coil packs and spark plugs are common failures as well, ignition needs to be tip-top in a turbocharged engine.

Performance wise they are great for towing and doing truck stuff. I have the smaller version (2.7) and it tows better than any V8 half ton I've had, the torque peak is right where it needs to be, right around 3000RPM. I get 19-20mpg average out of it.
The transmission is my biggest worry. It's never been serviced. He claimed its lifetime and never needed servicing. Lol. He wasn't hard on the truck at all. It only worked when I borrowed it. Which was a dozen times total.

I cannot believe dealers claim that. Had a Honda accord that they claimed the same. The filter disintegrated in the system.

I'll do the trans first. It does have a little shutter I feel like.

Appreciate the info.
 
The transmission is my biggest worry. It's never been serviced. He claimed its lifetime and never needed servicing. Lol. He wasn't hard on the truck at all. It only worked when I borrowed it. Which was a dozen times total.

I cannot believe dealers claim that. Had a Honda accord that they claimed the same. The filter disintegrated in the system.

I'll do the trans first. It does have a little shutter I feel like.

Appreciate the info.

They can be serviced, they have a dipstick of sorts, it's built into the fill plug on the passenger side of the transmission. It's tricky to fill, you will need a pump of some kind. I built a fluid exchanger out of 4" PVC, holds about two gallons, uses compressed air to push the fluid in, handy for servicing transmissions, diffs, transfer cases, etc.

I'm not much for fluid additives, but lubegard makes one that works really well for these.

The oil change thing is 100% truth, I try to change mine at 5-6000 miles and the monitor usually shows that I still have 40%+ left. That's way too long for a turbocharged, direct injected engine IMO.
 
They can be serviced, they have a dipstick of sorts, it's built into the fill plug on the passenger side of the transmission. It's tricky to fill, you will need a pump of some kind. I built a fluid exchanger out of 4" PVC, holds about two gallons, uses compressed air to push the fluid in, handy for servicing transmissions, diffs, transfer cases, etc.

I'm not much for fluid additives, but lubegard makes one that works really well for these.

The oil change thing is 100% truth, I try to change mine at 5-6000 miles and the monitor usually shows that I still have 40%+ left. That's way too long for a turbocharged, direct injected engine IMO.
You are invaluable, my friend!

Thanks.
 
Atimm693 some real good info. Not a F150, but I have Ranger Ecoboost and it will lay you head back when you put your foot into it. It just has way too many electronics. The thing has electronic steering assist and when you get around sixty MPG it wants to drive for you. You better have two hands on the steering wheel as the steering gets tight and it will take the wheel if you don't control it.
 
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Got an opportunity to buy a well maintained 2011 f150 with the ecoboost motor. It has 113k miles. It's a crew cab truck with a 6.5' bed.

Was wondering what yall thought about them.

Truck drives real good. I imagine it drives like a new one.
My son has one 2018 model loves it.
Been a good work/family type vehicle.
I have the 2.7 the 3.5 has about 75lbs more torque and 4K towing capacity.
 
Atimm693 some real good info. Not a F150, but I have Ranger Ecoboost and it will lay you head back when you put your foot into it. It just has way too many electronics. The thing has electronic steering assist and when you get around sixty MPG it wants to drive for you. You better have two hands on the steering wheel as the steering gets tight and it will take the wheel if you don't control it.
The steering assist would worry me to death. Lol. Can it be turned off? I'm hoping this 2011 doesn't have all kinds of electronic stuff. But I'm sure it does.

I had a 2013 Taurus I bought new. Fried the dash/ac control area jumping a car off. I'll won't be jumping anything off with this truck.
 
The steering assist would worry me to death. Lol. Can it be turned off? I'm hoping this 2011 doesn't have all kinds of electronic stuff. But I'm sure it does.

I had a 2013 Taurus I bought new. Fried the dash/ac control area jumping a car off. I'll won't be jumping anything off with this truck.
I don't think it can from what I have read. You weave back and forth a couple times and it tells you to get off the road and get some sleep. All these electronic are nice until they have problems, and it will happen. Now a days you about need an extra round baler as the electronic on them can drive you crazy.

This is from last fall

s3I8cDz.jpg
 
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They can be serviced, they have a dipstick of sorts, it's built into the fill plug on the passenger side of the transmission. It's tricky to fill, you will need a pump of some kind. I built a fluid exchanger out of 4" PVC, holds about two gallons, uses compressed air to push the fluid in, handy for servicing transmissions, diffs, transfer cases, etc.

I'm not much for fluid additives, but lubegard makes one that works really well for these.

The oil change thing is 100% truth, I try to change mine at 5-6000 miles and the monitor usually shows that I still have 40%+ left. That's way too long for a turbocharged, direct injected engine IMO.
What type of lubegard? I've got one here that's called shudder fix or somrthing of the sort, made by lubegard. Is that the one you were referring to?

I'm doing the fluids next week. I've got everything but fluid for the transfer case.
 
I don't think it can from what I have read. You weave back and forth a couple times and it tells you to get off the road and get some sleep. All these electronic are nice until they have problems, and it will happen. Now a days you about need an extra round baler as the electronic on them can drive you crazy.

This is from last fall

s3I8cDz.jpg
Yes you can deactivate on the newer models I know the Mrs has it on hers.
 
What type of lubegard? I've got one here that's called shudder fix or somrthing of the sort, made by lubegard. Is that the one you were referring to?

I'm doing the fluids next week. I've got everything but fluid for the transfer case.

Just the plain old Red additive if it isn't shuddering already. If it starts, then I would try the shudder fix, run for a while then drain and refill with the red additive.
 

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