Distributor issues...

[skyhightree1]

I am really not trying to be funny but make sure its the right cap on there sometimes they can give you the wrong parts.. 2nd make sure the rotor button is correct.. Also make sure the cap is on right and not cucked or anything and make darn sure the rotor button is well seated. Make sure distributor shaft has no play and also that can happen in some aftermarket parts where they do not fit correctly. All i can think of and no not a hard job if you are mechanically incline

 

[greybeard]

You are on the right track. If the dist cap is remaining locked down firmly and is the correct one, the next most common cause of rotor breaking is worn bushing(s) in the distributor itself. I'm not familiar with your make and model, but that has been my experience with distributors breaking the rotor. Worn dist shaft bushings.
I can't hel with how difficult the removal and replacement of the distributor is--never owned that model.

 

[Bigfoot]

You can get an electronic ignition, that goes right in place of the points. Every old tractor I've ever seen it put on ran better.

 

[M5farm]

Fiw there are 2 systems that points engines can be converted to gm is the easiest as every thing is contained in the distributor and you only need 1 hot wire. Search your engine for a general motors distributor that's compatible you will most likely have to change the gear on the dist shaft. I've done several old jeeps , the plugs will have to be regaped to about 50 . it will run twice as good

 

[Bigfoot]

Thanks for the help guys. I think I found the issue...the distributor shaft has no lateral movement, but moves in and out almost a half an inch...not sure what is causing that. I priced a new distributor and about fell out...over $500. Good grief, this is a 50 yr old tractor. Now I just have to replace. Am I correct in marking the position the rotor is pointing on the old distributor and putting the new one in with the rotor in the same position and then making minor adjustments by turning the distributor???

Thanks!

Bigfoot...is it hard to replace points with electronic ignition???

Tim

I'm going to refer to M5, his fix sounds better. As far as converting, no it's not bad at all. The instructions in the box, are easy enough to follow.

 

[greybeard]

Thanks for the help guys. I think I found the issue...the distributor shaft has no lateral movement, but moves in and out almost a half an inch...not sure what is causing that. I priced a new distributor and about fell out...over $500. Good grief, this is a 50 yr old tractor. Now I just have to replace. Am I correct in marking the position the rotor is pointing on the old distributor and putting the new one in with the rotor in the same position and then making minor adjustments by turning the distributor???

Thanks!

Bigfoot...is it hard to replace points with electronic ignition???

Tim

I don't know what type of drive your distributor has on it--a gear I suspect, and if it is the usual bevel gear on the end of the dist shaft, the mating with the cam gear has a tendency to push UP on the dist shaft. Normally taken care of by thrust washer and shim inside the lower part of the distributor.
You might check with this vendor:
http://www.tractorpartsasap.com/Distrib ... 203573.htm
He lists the complete distributor for $200 plus a refundable core charge of $100 if this is the correct distributor for you year model.

Fits Massey Ferguson TO20, TO30, TO35, 35, 50
Fits Gehl 860, 1065, 4840
Includes new distributor cap, points, condenser, and all other parts needed for a thorough rebuilt unit
Replaces OEM #: 181685M91, 182852M91
Replaces Delco Number(s): 1111722, 1111740, 1112557, 1112570
All new, rebuilt and used tractor parts have a 1-year warranty

Am I correct in marking the position the rotor is pointing on the old distributor and putting the new one in with the rotor in the same position and then making minor adjustments by turning the distributor???
It is also helpful if not neccessary to note exactly where the body or housing of the distributor is located before you remove it. I usually take a sharp metal tool (scribe) and make a mark on the housing and the engine casting. Then make sure I do not rotate the crankshaft after that until the new dist is installed. When you drop the distributor in, you will have to position the rotor just a few degrees before where you want it to point. This is because the gear teeth are at an angle and dropping it in will turn the shaft a little bit in the direction of normal rotation and if you don't do this, you will find the rotor is past where it needs to be once the distributor is fully seated in it's bore.
So, you will mark both your distributor body in relation to it's hole and the rotor in relation to where it was pointing when you pull the dist out.
Of course, you can also rotate the engine to the correct firing point for the cylinder that your distributor is timed on--presumably at TDC of Cylinder #1. There may or may not be, a mark designating this timing point on the flywheel or crankshaft pulley. On some MF's there was a cover or plug on the flywheel housing that you removed, push a small screwdriver into the hole in the casting till it barely contacts the flywheel. There is a hole in the flywheel that is the timing point.Have someone rotate the crankshaft by hand until you feel the screwdriver go further in. Your engine is now at the timing point, but you need to find out if it is at tdc on the compression stroke or at TDC on the exhaust stroke. To find this out, you would remove the valve cover and see if both rocker arms for the #1 cyl are up. If so, you are on compression stroke. If the exhaust valve rocker arm is down you are on the exhaust stroke. Putting the distributor in with the engine cylinder being on the exhaust stroke means you may be timed as much as 180 degrees out.
If you mark everything tho, before you pull the distributor, and re-install the new one exactly like the old one came out, you won't need to find TDC of #1. You can also take a picture of the old dist before you remove it to help figure out how to position the new on in the bore.

Either way, you still need to mark the body of the distributor AND the area right next to it before removing the distributor.

 

[BigYoung]

I get alot of good info for fixing my Ford 8N from the forum on Yesterday's Tractor. They have an old Massey Ferguson forum there too. If the old guys on the Massey forum are anything like the 8N guys you will get good help there. Good Luck with the 35. :cboy:

 

[Bigfoot]

I get alot of good info for fixing my Ford 8N from the forum on Yesterday's Tractor. They have an old Massey Ferguson forum there too. If the old guys on the Massey forum are anything like the 8N guys you will get good help there. Good Luck with the 35. :cboy:

It's an excellent site. Those guys can walk you through anything.

 

[M5farm]

Looks like the HEI distributor is not viable on the 35 Ferguson. I did see where they have and electronic ignition replacement plate and coil that's a very popular conversion on the 35`s and Ford n series tractors. That what I would do.

 

[greybeard]

Looks like the HEI distributor is not viable on the 35 Ferguson. I did see where they have and electronic ignition replacement plate and coil that's a very popular conversion on the 35`s and Ford n series tractors. That what I would do.

Unless I am missing something and mis-understand the model, this one should be right--not cheap tho:
http://www.tractorpartsasap.com/Electro ... 105073.htm
Fits:
Allis Chalmers 170, 175
International 454, 464, 544, 574, 674, 2400A, 2400B, 2544, 4500
John Deere 3010, 3020, 500
Massey Ferguson 35, 50, 175, 180, 185, 202, 203, 235, 245, 255, 265, 285, 2135, 2200, 2220, 2500, 3165, 20, 30, 40, 40B
Minneapolis Moline Jet Star, Jet Star 2, Jet Star 3, Jet Star 3 Super, 4 Star, 4 Star Super, 5 Star, M670, M670 Super, U302
White 2-44
Delco Remy distributor numbers 1112448, 1112460, 1112474, 1112486, 1112623, 1112648,1112674
All 4 Cylinder
CCW Rotation
Voltage: 12 Volt negative ground

Scroll down these pages to find conversion kit part #s--as well as all other MF35 electrical part#s:
http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-b ... on&md=MF35

 

[M5farm]

Looks like the HEI distributor is not viable on the 35 Ferguson. I did see where they have and electronic ignition replacement plate and coil that's a very popular conversion on the 35`s and Ford n series tractors. That what I would do.

Unless I am missing something and mis-understand the model, this one should be right--not cheap tho:
http://www.tractorpartsasap.com/Electro ... 105073.htm
Fits:
Allis Chalmers 170, 175
International 454, 464, 544, 574, 674, 2400A, 2400B, 2544, 4500
John Deere 3010, 3020, 500
Massey Ferguson 35, 50, 175, 180, 185, 202, 203, 235, 245, 255, 265, 285, 2135, 2200, 2220, 2500, 3165, 20, 30, 40, 40B
Minneapolis Moline Jet Star, Jet Star 2, Jet Star 3, Jet Star 3 Super, 4 Star, 4 Star Super, 5 Star, M670, M670 Super, U302
White 2-44
Delco Remy distributor numbers 1112448, 1112460, 1112474, 1112486, 1112623, 1112648,1112674
All 4 Cylinder
CCW Rotation
Voltage: 12 Volt negative ground

Scroll down these pages to find conversion kit part #s--as well as all other MF35 electrical part#s:
http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-b ... on&md=MF35

Your right , that's the kit I found for it too. I just assumed a hei or tfi distributor would be available.

 

[lavacarancher]

Replacing the points with a breaker less ignition system will not eliminate the rotor nor will replacing the complete distributor. Replacing the distributor will get you parts that will work together and new bushings but you will still have a rotor. You have to get the power to the plugs one at a time and that's the job of the rotor.

 

[dun]

Replacing the points with a breaker less ignition system will not eliminate the rotor nor will replacing the complete distributor. Replacing the distributor will get you parts that will work together and new bushings but you will still have a rotor. You have to get the power to the plugs one at a time and that's the job of the rotor.

And if the problem is with the thrust washer that allows the shaft to raise up too much you won;t have resolved anything.

 

[rnh1]

Your distributor should be a delco which is a gm product. :deadhorse: