‘13 Dodge tires?

[Travlr]

Wider tires mean more square inches of contact with the ground. Less pounds per square inch downforce on the tires.

It's kind of a crap shoot... The wider tires are easier on the pasture and less likely to rut, but the narrow tires find the bottom quicker and give more traction. Of course if the mud is bottomless then nothing will be good enough.

 

[Brute 23]

That statement proves how little you understand the very basics of science related to steer ability and handling characteristics of vehicles
Changing caster , suspension characteristics, and axle placement of the front axle dramatically change handling and steer ability of the entire vehicle.
As does tire psi and contact size /shape of where the tire contacts the ground. As does weight on front axle compared to back axle.

This is what I was talking about in the other thread. I tried.

@Rmc you sir... are an idiot.

 

[Rmc]

Easiest way to explain how reducing caster on front axle will affect handling and steer ability of the rear axle is with the motor cycle . Imagine a chopper ,big engine lots of power front tire way out front of pivot point, now take that same bike and put a standard front end on it. You move the front tire not only closer to the rear tire but also closer to the pivot point. Same engine same power. Do you think that the rear end may have the tendency to "skate the rear end" ? I guarantee it would.
No different in a pick up . When you put a leveling kit or lift kit on it reduces caster and pushes the front axle closer to the rear end and closer to the pivot point.

 

[Rmc]

Another thing that happens when you add lift/leaving kit and /or add bigger tires without changing to an adjustable track bar is that the front axle is offset to one side.
A track bar connects the front axle to the frame via bracket. If the distance between the front axle and the frame is increased without lengthening the trac bar the axle is shifted to the side and is no longer in line with the rear end.
The result is that the front axle and rear axle are no longer in line with each other. This increases the potential for the rear axle to "skate"
It doesn't take a major movement of components to change handling and steer ability.
I don't remember the exact numbers but I think that if your toe is out 1/4 inch that is the equivalent of dragging your tire sideways down the road for 10 miles for ever 1000 miles you drive.
Caster and camber numbers are similar. Small changed have a larger effect then most realize

 

[fnfarms1]

I did have alignment done at time of tire install, by reputable shop. Not sure on track bar. Do have a lot of air in rears 72ish psi. Had hoped more air would take out the flex of the side wall if that was the issue.

 

[Rmc]

there is only a small amount of caster adjustment in dodges. So you can't completely eliminate the reduced caster. Take a look at the front bolts attaching the front axle to trailing arms. See if they are adjusted to push the axle as far forward as possible. My guess is they aren't and are still sitting where they where set from factory.
Track bar is easy to tell if it is adjustable or not. If track bar is adjustable it will be threaded. Stock or equivalent will be one solid piece.
You want more side wall flex not less . You want the side wall to take some of the flex rather than stiff sidewall transferring everything to tread /road interface.

 

[Brute 23]

Try it both ways and see if it's any better at like 55 or so. I've never been one to run a lot of air on the rear, empty.

Not all 10ply tires are created equal, especially in the sidewall.

 

[Rmc]

I would try 45 psi in rear and 50 psi in front if you aren't loaded.
Many "reputable shops" only set the toe and ship it on pickups. I would recommend taking it to a performance,off-road, lift type shop and specify you want the alignment done to get the best handling . Also tell them you want the caster adjustment and make sure they give you a before and after printout.

 

[EasTex]

I had the death wobble in my Dodge 2500 with level kit and BFG 315/70/17. The guy at the front end shop said when you lift the front it's like a bicycle with the handle bars turned around and the forks facing you. Hit a bump and it moves side to side quickly. He set the caster or camber back out to compensate for the lift. It fixed the death wobble. I've been running 35/12.5/17 Toyos for a while now without problems. I may try Nittos on the next go around. Both are good tires IMO.

 

[Nesikep]

While I don't have any newer dodge experience, 99% of death wobble issues are the track bar being worn out, and toe-in will make it more apparent. A lot of places that lift the vehicle will reduce the caster to get the correct pinion angle, this is especially true on 4+" lifts and then the thing handles like dog crap and won't hold a line.
I live on a rough road, on my first gen dodge with 275/75/20" tires I run about 50psi max up front and if I"m not loaded I'll go down as far as 25-30 psi on the back.
When that truck had sagged out leaf springs I added a couple leafs to the front and at the same time added a 4* caster wedge.. it went from being white knuckle driving on the highway to dead steady.
On the 2nd gen with the coil springs I put a 1/2* camber bushing in it because I was wearing the outside of my tires a lot (I take a lot of corners and don't do it slowly either) and my tire wear has gotten much more even, whenever I get the death wobble in that truck I just swap out the track bar and it goes away, pretty much any other fix is a bandaid, shocks, steering damper, etc only mask the problem a little.. None of my trucks have steering dampers and they all drive nice when things are tight. I also set the toe to zero or just a HAIR in on all my trucks, it might be a little less responsive on turn-in to a corner but it's more stable and good for tire wear
I run chinese tires on them, the first gen had Suretrac MT's and they wore really well, probably have 30k miles on them and on my roads that's real good, and they were half the price of Nitto or whatever other brand name. the 2wd has Antares and I don't notice any wear on them with about 5k miles. MT's aren't great highway tires but if you deal with the spring mud we have, they're nice to have. I run an A/T usually

Another thing about tire pressure is that when you go to a bigger tire, if you aren't dropping tire pressure you're losing contact patch with the road. My buddy just put Duratrac's on his truck and he was also told that for the first 100 miles be real careful because the back end will get away from you
I speed the process up with a smoky burnout and call it good

 

[Rmc]

This is what I was talking about in the other thread. I tried.

@Rmc you sir... are an idiot.

Thank you for your kind words.
I take it you definition of idiot must mean someone whose statements are based on scientific principles, real world experience and facts established by documented research that is easily verifiable by others

 

[Rmc]

While I don't have any newer dodge experience, 99% of death wobble issues are the track bar being worn out, and toe-in will make it more apparent. A lot of places that lift the vehicle will reduce the caster to get the correct pinion angle, this is especially true on 4+" lifts and then the thing handles like dog crap and won't hold a line.
I live on a rough road, on my first gen dodge with 275/75/20" tires I run about 50psi max up front and if I"m not loaded I'll go down as far as 25-30 psi on the back.
When that truck had sagged out leaf springs I added a couple leafs to the front and at the same time added a 4* caster wedge.. it went from being white knuckle driving on the highway to dead steady.

Lifts leveling kits decrease caster and sometimes camber depending on if it is coil or spring suspension.
You must increase caster to improve steer ability and handling. Improper caster will not cause excessive tire wear. Improper camber and toe will cause excessive tire wear

 

[Brute 23]

Thank you for your kind words.
I take it you definition of idiot must mean someone whose statements are based on scientific principles, real world experience and facts established by documented research that is easily verifiable by others

No... as in going way over the top despite the info given or with out enough info given.

 

[fnfarms1]

I made new appt with a shop that fixed my Tacoma front end few months ago. I'll let ya know

 

[Nesikep]

Lifts leveling kits decrease caster and sometimes camber depending on if it is coil or spring suspension.
You must increase caster to improve steer ability and handling. Improper caster will not cause excessive tire wear. Improper camber and toe will cause excessive tire wear

In a solid axle the problem is with a lift kit it seems like the only thing people look at is pinion angle, which leads to very poor handling lifted trucks because they have no caster anymore.. the only way to do it correctly would be to cut and reweld the axle tubes to the diff housing, but no one ever has money to do it right

 

[Rmc]

In a solid axle the problem is with a lift kit it seems like the only thing people look at is pinion angle, which leads to very poor handling lifted trucks because they have no caster anymore.. the only way to do it correctly would be to cut and reweld the axle tubes to the diff housing, but no one ever has money to do it right

Ford has adjustment for caster at the upper ball joint bushing. Dodges have some adjustment in the trailing arms with an eccentric bolt. There are also offset ball joints and adjustable ball joints available. Way easier than trying to cut and reweld . Also adjustable track bars are available as well as longer pitman arms . Lots of parts available to do it right.
Most don't even change out the stock shocks to ones with increased travel when doing leveling kits.
Those that "don't have the money to do it right" will pay far more money over the time they own the vehicle due to premature wear of suspension components,due to the the added stresses put on steering and suspension components.

 

[Nesikep]

Ford has adjustment for caster at the upper ball joint bushing. Dodges have some adjustment in the trailing arms with an eccentric bolt. There are also offset ball joints and adjustable ball joints available. Way easier than trying to cut and reweld . Also adjustable track bars are available as well as longer pitman arms . Lots of parts available to do it right.
Most don't even change out the stock shocks to ones with increased travel when doing leveling kits.
Those that "don't have the money to do it right" will pay far more money over the time they own the vehicle due to premature wear of suspension components,due to the the added stresses put on steering and suspension components.

I'm not saying you can't adjust the caster, you definitely can, but when you lift the vehicle enough, at some point you cannot have both the correct caster and the correct pinion angle, that's when you need to cut/weld the tubes.. Usually up to about 4" you're OK

 

[Rmc]

I have done many camber adjustments on 6 inch plus lift kits.
Any vehicle that is lifted and street legal in the us can have camber adjustments to with manufacturers specs. Anything more than that is off road and a totally different ball of wax. I understand you are In Canada but all my comments are for vehicles lifted and still considered street legal in the us. This discussion is about lift and leveling kits on street legal vehicles. Not off-road, or racing vehicles.