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Lanate is some nasty stuff. Be careful!

ENM, not NEM. Effective Neutralizing Material.

Sorry to hear your University Extension office was no help. You might want to check the Univ. of Kentucky Ext. agronomy website for insecticide recommendations and such. Most of the insecticides mentioned above are synthetic pyrethroid class materials. They are generally low in toxicity and...

In the future call Wayne Flannary of the University of Missouri Extension center over in Oregon, Mo. for answers to all your agronomy questions.

Today is not too late, but get to it!

Will be on the sidelines at Rocky Top in November to watch the Tigers. Had a great time down there two years ago.

Tried this once when I was a kid. Bad idea. You should have green chopped only enough to feed daily or chop it in one cutting and ensile it in a silage pit. It will take forever to dry enough to bale and you likely won't be happy with the bales after they rot away.

Here dozier operators charge according to the size and horsepower of the machine. My guy charges about $140 per hour and has an Allis.

Wait till fall and treat the pasture with 2,4-D. You will knock out the rosettes cheaply. Do it again next fall.

Used to have it in all the row crop fields. Usually occurred in small patches. Roundup Ready soybeans rang the death knell for it, because we don't see it in the fields anymore. I assume Glyphosate will kill it easily.

If the weed is a broadleaf, try 2,4-D first. It is cheap and plentiful and it leaves no residue or grazing problems.

When you have an agronomy question, check with your County Agent at the University Extension Center in your area. I see you are from Texas, so that would be aTm or TAMU Extension. The Texas State weed taxonomist and herbicide specialist was a college buddy and he is very knowledgeable...

Try spot spraying some 2,4-D LV with a small backpack sprayer or even a hand can. Be prepared to revisit the area every two weeks until you have it knocked out. Roundup/glyphosate is not very effective controlling this weed.

No. Why would anyone even consider it? It is easier to spread in it's naturally dry state.

Have a JD 567 and use the Covered Edge wrap I buy from my JD dealer. I set the monitor at from 1.7 to 2.0 depending on the type of hay. The bales are tight and shed water well enough that there is little waste, even into the second year. Most of the wast is at the bottom, where it is easier...

Our pastures are a base of bluegrass, brome, orchardgrass and timothy with Dutch white clover and some birdsfoot trefoil. Fescue is considered a weed in almost every situation outside of a waterway. Thank goodness we don't have to rely on bermuda grass or fescue for forage. If it was mine, I...

In the midwest we might apply a dinitroaniline herbicide, such as Treflan or Prowl to control annual grass weeds like crabgrass. I have no idea how it might affect Bermuda grass

Assuming your pastures are seeded into perennial grasses, allowing them to go to seed is overrated.

I assume your State has a fencing law. In Missouri a county may opt to implement the law in one of two ways. You need to find out what the law is first. You can get that information from the University Extension Center in your County. When dealing with an uncooperative neighbor, the first...

There are two schools of thought on insect control. Use a highly toxic material with little or no residual effect to knock down all the bugs quickly or use a less toxic, but more persistent material. Organophosphate and Carbamate insecticides provide quick kills. The newer Nicotinoid and...