Army worms-------Help a rookie

[Bigfoot]

I have zero experience, in fact our extension office isn't that UTD on it.
1. Its mostly in my hay, can I just cut it, and be done with it?

2. Only mustang seems to be availbale locally, will it do the job?

3. Can I spot spray affected areas, not the whole place?

4. How much precaution do I need to take with mustang? Do i need the whole chem suit, respirator etc.?

 

[bigbull338]

if you have them in your hay cut it asasp.because if you dont they will most likely wipe the field out.if you spray them spray the whole field.personally i would not suit up to spray them but thats me.besides youll most likely be in cab tractor.

 

[circlew]

Bf cut the hay and then watch closely when it comes back you may have to spray anyway.

 

[JWBrahman]

If your hay is ready cut it asap. They won't touch it once it is cut and drying in the sun.

 

[Tim/South]

Cut the hay if you can.
A few days later look to see if there are a lot of white moths in or around the hay field. If so, the worms made it to maturity. The moth will lay the next round of worms and fly away. The worms will return.
It is good if a person can spray and try to break as much of the cycle as possible. Our bermuda is just recovering and we are on the look out for the second crop of worms. We sprayed the first attack and hopefully the next round will be smaller.

 

[highgrit]

Bigfoot, I'm not sure what you want to know. But this is what we us and how we do it. Spray Dimilin at 2 oz. per acre mixed with Baythyroid at 2.5 oz. per acre. Charbayl - Seven is good also at killing armyworms also. The Dimilin is supposed to kill the hatch also.

 

[Bigfoot]

Thanks for the help. Calling for rain here, not looking like laying it down is a viable option. Evidently the county is getting hit pretty hard by them. Ive been so busy at work, for the last month, I hadn't even been out in the community to hear about it. I hope this doesn'y become an annual thing.

 

[Jogeephus]

Its an annual thing here but worse this year than ever before. Been told a wet fall makes the next year worse. Mustang Max will get them. I only spray my hay fields. What HG said too. No need to suit up just use common sense and don't go drinking it or filling up your water troughs or stuff like that but I'm sure the label will tell you these things.

 

[Bigfoot]

They seem to prefer Johnson grass, and crabgrass.

 

[Banjo]

So, how do you know you got army worms? Do they prefer Bermuda grass?

 

[jedstivers]

Lambda Cy at 1-50 is good. You can even spray your sows with it. That's the AI in ultra boss. Here it's around 50-60 dollars a gallon. My wife still has a whole pallet of it to sell. If you need enough to ship let me know and I'll pass the info on to her.
No need to suit up if you have a cab tractor. If you get it on you use vitamin e cream, water just drives it in.
http://www.uaex.edu/publications/mp-144.aspx

 

[M5farm]

So, how do you know you got army worms? Do they prefer Bermuda grass?

You can usually tell you have them when you see cow birds in the pasture. Inspection of the field you will find them.

 

[torogmc81]

Did you catch them quick? Usually it's too late once you realize you have them.

How's that urine smell treating ya??

 

[Bigfoot]

I was gone all weekend, I think they did the majority of their damage, during those 3 days. The extension agent said that he would probably just watch it to see if it grows. Do they go on to turn in to a moth? An inordanant amount of moths were swarming the lights on my arena tonight.

My neighbors place, is much worse. Very large dead spots, with everything gone.

 

[Bigfoot]

Lambda Cy at 1-50 is good. You can even spray your sows with it. That's the AI in ultra boss. Here it's around 50-60 dollars a gallon. My wife still has a whole pallet of it to sell. If you need enough to ship let me know and I'll pass the info on to her.
No need to suit up if you have a cab tractor. If you get it on you use vitamin e cream, water just drives it in.
http://www.uaex.edu/publications/mp-144.aspx

Thanks. I don't have a cab tractor, I'll probably suit up.

 

[Tim/South]

I was gone all weekend, I think they did the majority of their damage, during those 3 days. The extension agent said that he would probably just watch it to see if it grows. Do they go on to turn in to a moth? An inordanant amount of moths were swarming the lights on my arena tonight.

My neighbors place, is much worse. Very large dead spots, with everything gone.

The moth lays the eggs. The eggs hatch in a few days. The larvae normally live and eat 14 days. The last 3 days seem to be the most destructive and the worms are large and more visible. They go into pupa stage for 10 days or so then become a moth. They lay eggs and fly to another field, lay more eggs, then die after a week or two. Not sure all of the time lines are exact, recalling from memory. When small they are hard to find. They stay shaded by the grass and eat tops more at night
The problem with army worm control is different moths may be laying eggs over a period of two weeks and worms of various stages can infest a field.
The moth here is a gray color.
The worst case for me is when all the moths lay eggs about the same time. By the time the worms get big enough to do much damage they are large and devastating.
I lost 20 acres of Bermuda in 3 days. The field looked fine Tuesday. By the time I sprayed Thursday all the leaves had been eaten off the runners. I knew they were in our county. Did not know the neighbor bordering me had them eat all of his fields before they got to me.

 

[NWMoAngus]

Sorry to hear your University Extension office was no help. You might want to check the Univ. of Kentucky Ext. agronomy website for insecticide recommendations and such. Most of the insecticides mentioned above are synthetic pyrethroid class materials. They are generally low in toxicity and pose little risk to you or your cattle. However, each of them are registered as restricted use pesticides - RUPs and require a pesticide applicator license before you can purchase and use them. As always, read and follow label directions. Regarding PPE, there will be a section on each label listing the appropriate clothing for mixing, loading and application. You did not indicate the number of acres you intend to treat. If the acreage is large enough, you should be able to hire a local custom applicator to do it for you and get around the need for a license and the PPE. The custom applicator/dealer will be knowledgeable regarding both the pest and the pesticide you should be using and will certainly be aware of area insect outbreaks.

 

[Texas Gal]

I've had good luck in the past with DiPel. Here's the link:

http://www.valent.com/agriculture/produ ... /index.cfm

Even though it's a biological it kills those little b@$t@rd$ quickly.

 

[Jogeephus]

FWIW, a good way to scout your fields is to ride through the field at night. If you see a bunch of moths you might as well start selecting an insecticide. Also, be extra vigilant near the full moon. They seem to cycle with the full moon but not always.

 

[greybeard]

I've had good luck in the past with DiPel. Here's the link:

http://www.valent.com/agriculture/produ ... /index.cfm

Even though it's a biological it kills those little b@$t@rd$ quickly.

Dipel dust--Bacillus thuringiensis--gonna take a heck of a lot of it to protect 20 acres.