Sealing stock tank?

[okiek]

I'm late to the party so I see you've applied a remedy. I did this exact thing to a big trough 2 years ago. Used a wire wheel on a battery driver to clean it a little and used the spray can flex seal at the seam inside and out. Two years later and no leaks.

 

[jschoolcraft86]

Rhino line that bad boy. Indestructible.
I have no experience trying this and it just came to me, possibly as a result of divine intervention.

 

[Mrcopier]

Rhino line that bad boy. Indestructible.
I have no experience trying this and it just came to me, possibly as a result of divine intervention.

I have used the Flex spray. It's pretty close to Rhino liner. Just a rubber spray it works

 

[Bhoover2]

They make some stuff called Through the Roof it seals less than 10 bucks a caulking tube.

Did you use through the roof on your livestock water trough? We've used on our roof but I'm worried about using on the trough.

 

[Lucky_P]

Had a crack in the tank of one of the upstairs toilets. Could not find a replacement tank that would fit, and was shocked at the cost of a new toilet and tank. Took that sucker off, cleaned & dried it, and sprayed several layers of Flex-Seal on it, allowing it to dry to 'tacky' in between. Put it back on, and it's been leak-free for close to 10 years now... knock on wood.

 

[coachg]

I've used the flex seal spray on a Rubbermaid water tub . It has a fine crack along the bottom edge . Inside , outside, 3 coats . Cracks 4-5 inches long . Sucker still leaks . Thumbs down on flex seal .

 

[GoWyo]

I've used the flex seal spray on a Rubbermaid water tub . It has a fine crack along the bottom edge . Inside , outside, 3 coats . Cracks 4-5 inches long . Sucker still leaks . Thumbs down on flex seal .

Thumbs down on Rubbermaid water tubs too. Had a couple and they didn't last more than a year. Steel ones you can hammer them back and seal them up.

 

[Nesikep]

I got some flex seal for the roof of my camper trailer seams.. seems to stick great.

Windshield urethane (autozone or wherever) is SUPER sticky.. takes a day to set

On a stock trough I'd probably just use roofing tar, or actual hot tar applied from pail with a mop.. as soon as it's cool it's ready to go.

 

[jltrent]

I had a galvanized tank that leaked I used for years. I used plenty of roofing tar and put some dirt straight out of the pond to coat the bottom. After about ten years I finally broke down and bought a new one when it started leaking again. For the most part I agree with fences post. I used the roll out flex seal on top of a tractor cab and within a year it rolled up, cracked and was wasted money ( I cleaned the area well too). Not much you see advertized on TV is any count.

 

[RDFF]

Replace tired tanks with ................. TIRE tanks. Indestructible.

 

[greybeard]

Flex seal tape nor spray did NOT work as advertised on my pool liner.
(another 2 part product did, made specifically for underwater application)

 

[Jeanne - Simme Valley]

I just bought some Gorilla spray sealer - for an old fashion clawed bathtub we use as a water tank. Hubby sealed a crack on the bottom maybe 25 years ago with roofing tar. It just starting leaking, so we need to dry it out and try to seal it.

 

[MurraysMutts]

I've had the best luck with 3M marine grade sealant 4200/5200. SUPER STICKY and seals well.
Gotta make it clean and dry first tho.

 

[TexasRancher]

With thin flat metal leaks where I can't weld I do the sandwich. I use two flat stock steel pieces (w/hole in center) then cut rubber intertubes to match the steel stock....all sandwiched together both sides and bolted down (stainless bolt/nut best with poly washers-to seal) together...w/rubber seals on each side of the flat stock covering the hole.
Plastic, poly...i will always try to burn it, melt it and solder it with nearby material and mined sacrifical material i can take in other locations, then to brace and enhance the fix i'll mix jb weld epoxy to coat and give abrasion endurance to the thinner-weaker repair. It's lipstick on the fix...looks better than the melted goo spread and acts as a secondary containment.
I've had great luck with fiberglass...real glass not bondo...it's time consuming to mix, costly and clean-up sucks...but the finished product amber-hardened glass bonds to any material...Even better if the surface is cleaned-filed-ruffed up-uneven.

 

[jltrent]

Replace tired tanks with ................. TIRE tanks. Indestructible.

View attachment 35634

I have a bunch of those that have underground float tanks 32 ply tires that water gravity flows to them. I have had them for 22 years and pretty much Maintenace free. Feed the cattle close one and zero weather they will keep them broke. I think I have replace the cutoff once in each of the 8 I have. The cattle can't play with the float an mess them up.

 

[kenny thomas]

I have a bunch of those that have underground float tanks 32 ply tires that water gravity flows to them. I have had them for 22 years and pretty much Maintenace free. Feed the cattle close one and zero weather they will keep them broke. I think I have replace the cutoff once in each of the 8 I have. The cattle can't play with the float an mess them up.

I have some of the same. Have never had a float freeze or broken.

 

[RDFF]

I've posted about how mine is set up before. I used a utility hydrant for the water inlet (same functionally as a yard hydrant, except that it has a top mounted regular valve handle that I remove so it doesn't get broke if a cow gets in the tank). That come up in the center through the concrete floor. Followed by a means to put a snorkelled air inlet (so you can let the hydrant drain without pulling tank water in). Followed by an anti-siphon check valve (to keep tank water from flowing backward into the supply line if the well pump quits working. Then I install a 1/8" needle valve in a T, followed by a float controlled tank valve.

The 4" PVC in the center is a drain, which is connected to my field tile and then out to the creek. I have a female connector at the cement line, and install a 4" riser into that, up to the "full tank level", and then I put a 4" vent stack on top to keep the debris out of the drain line... like algea, etc. In winter, open the 1/8" needle valve as much as is necessary to keep the tank from freezing... excess "leaking water" flows into the drain stand pipe. You can see the air inlet snorkel hose that I've clamped onto the drain stand pipe, to get it up above the full water line.

Filled with 1 1/2" screened gravel all around about 12" deep, to avoid mud.

 

[RDFF]

I have a bunch of those that have underground float tanks 32 ply tires that water gravity flows to them. I have had them for 22 years and pretty much Maintenace free. Feed the cattle close one and zero weather they will keep them broke. I think I have replace the cutoff once in each of the 8 I have. The cattle can't play with the float an mess them up.

I assume that the float control tank is just up the hill (to achieve the same height level-wise) as the tire tank itself. I've thought of that, but then how to keep the tire tank open... I guess you could put that needle valve connected to a separate (and very small) pipe that runs over into the floor of the tire tank, so THAT can always be pushing a little water into the tire tank in winter... and then put the PVC overflow drain in like I did to take away the excess to keep it from running over. Virginia isn't as cold as Minnesota though... We'd have to have the valve tank underground about 4' to keep it from freezing... but I like the idea of not having the plumbing works where the cattle have access to it!