callmefence
Keyboard cowboy
Pulling a plow close to your tractors limits.
What would be your policy as far as gear selection and rpms?
What would be your policy as far as gear selection and rpms?
Rpms to pull a heavy plow
- Thread starter callmefence
- Start date
Help Support CattleToday:
SBMF 2015
Well-known member
Like jltrent stated lots of variables. What make and model is the tractor? What trans does it have? What type of plow? How wore are your drive tires? What type of soil? Flat ground or hills?
OP
OP
callmefence
Keyboard cowboy
SBMF 2015 said:
Jd5085...20' tandem disc. Only turning up about the top 4" of pretty light soil ,well worked in the previous years.
Seems I can get about 4 mph in b2 at 2100
With practically no lug.
Or b3 at about 1600 rpm will go up 2-3 hundred when plow is raised. .....
My question which is easier on the tractor.
Got alot of ground to cover(for me) rain coming can't really change things right now. But don't want to gut the tractor.
wbvs58
Well-known member
For max power I like to use the rpm that the tacho says will drive the PTO at rated speed of 540rpm. It seems that is where the manufactures design it for best performance.
Ken
Ken
SBMF 2015
Well-known member
callmefence said:
Thanks for the extra info. Higher rpm is better for the engine. When we work ground we run the tractor wide open (2250-2300 no load) and try not to lug them more than 2-300 rpms.
Have you tried c1? I think it falls inbetween b2-b3. At least it does in the older JD tractors.
I always used the "lug" factor, implement up to down, and keep it below a decrease of 5 or so percent of PTO rated hp, never over 10. Reasons all over in publications about wear and poor economy as the lug factor increases. On PTO equipment, I check the owners manual for the implement and even then I seldom run PTO if I am getting good results at 90% PTO speed. Not uncommon to use the draft control on a large plow, adjusting depth for that factor.
I'm a STO and run a fair amount of '60s to 70's equipment and I seldom have breakdowns. On most of the times I have had such, it was my pushing to finish what I was doing and it cost me, wasn't the equipments fault.....I'm learning $$$$.
I'm a STO and run a fair amount of '60s to 70's equipment and I seldom have breakdowns. On most of the times I have had such, it was my pushing to finish what I was doing and it cost me, wasn't the equipments fault.....I'm learning $$$$.
ClodHopper37869
Well-known member
Run the engine @ rated PTO or WFO.. :lol: :lol: :lol:
chevytaHOE5674
Well-known member
Run it at rated RPM and downshift when it lugs down more than a couple hundred R's.
Downshifting is the thing to do but in some cases, and my comment, based on left over implements from a 100 hp 2wd tractor after downsizing to a 65 4wd, is that some implements need to be run at a good speed to function properly.....cultivators and disc harrows to name a few.....at least on my heavy clay. Therefore you need to lift and maybe come around again (after the soil you flipped has dried out.....to keep from packing) to get the desired depth. Seldom does everything work out the same for everybody because of different circumstances in each case.
Rpms on the pto mark and just listen to your motor. I generally start in 3rd and see if I can work up from there.
