JD 7410 SCV push/pull quick connector question

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sunnyblueskies

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Question for all you smart people.
We need to rebuild or reseal the rear SCV connectors, they have a small leak and need new seals. It's not the valve itself leaking as whatever is hooked up isn't creeping or loosing pressure, so as I've said, it's most likely a seal between the female cartridge and the housing.

Here is my question. These quick connectors don't have a lever on them to lock the male connect in. They are the push/pull connecting kind, you push the male part hard into the connector and it will lock in, to disconnect you pull hard on the hydraulic line/connector.

I haven't taken one of these apart before, assume there is a snap ring in front of the female cartridge which has to come out. With a lever kind SCV you would move the lever and that cartridge would be released in the housing and it would pull out in the front.
Since there is no lever to disengage the cartridge in the housing.......... how does it come out? Do I have to take the whole backside of the SCV housing off?
Tried to find something on youtube or google, but the ones shown are all the lever kind, which doesn't help me.
 
Leaking when connected?

There should be an oring inside the female coupler that seals around the male coupler when connected and can be replaced without any disassembly.
 
Leaking when connected?
Good question! I double checked while doing chores today. Switched the lines to the second scv and yes, it appears the one is leaking only when something is plugged in. I'll give the o-ring you mentioned a try and see what happens.
Now if I would have to take it apart...... do you know how to take that female cartridge out of the housing?
 
I honestly don't know if you can take that style apart.

On the older style you can remove/replace the O-rings from the outside with a pick, but I don't think that's the case on these.

I've never had one leak, but I had one that was restricted somehow, like the poppets inside were jammed. I just replaced it, was around $80 if I remember right. Tried repairing one of the skid steer style couplers once and failed, so I didn't think these were worth messing with either.
 
I honestly don't know if you can take that style apart.

On the older style you can remove/replace the O-rings from the outside with a pick, but I don't think that's the case on these.

I've never had one leak, but I had one that was restricted somehow, like the poppets inside were jammed. I just replaced it, was around $80 if I remember right. Tried repairing one of the skid steer style couplers once and failed, so I didn't think these were worth messing with either.
That's the downside of all the newer machinery. Replace instead of fix and re-use. Frustrating.
 
These are supposed to be the bees knees, no personal experience but the next rebuild will get them.
That's more or less what this is, except OEM instead of conversion. Can't really tell if it's a better set up or not as we don't use that tractor with implements for haying or tillage or anything. So the bale unroller gets hooked up in the fall and taken off in spring. No plugging in and out happening other then that.
To plug in you have to push quite hard, my disadvantage......I'm not too tall and don't have 'man' power, just 'female' power. Ok I can still do it, but it takes putting some weight into the pushing. =D
 
I dont have any experience with that JD model, but I've rebuilt remotes on many other models. I suggest tracking down the service manual as there are usually some tricks to getting the scv body apart and back together.
 
That's more or less what this is, except OEM instead of conversion. Can't really tell if it's a better set up or not as we don't use that tractor with implements for haying or tillage or anything. So the bale unroller gets hooked up in the fall and taken off in spring. No plugging in and out happening other then that.
To plug in you have to push quite hard, my disadvantage......I'm not too tall and don't have 'man' power, just 'female' power. Ok I can still do it, but it takes putting some weight into the pushing. =D
Make sure you don't have any pressure on your hoses when you try to hook them up. When you unhook. **** the tractor off and work the hydraulic lever back and forth. Then wiggle your hoses, if they are loose and floppy there's no pressure. They should pull out easier and definitely go back in easier.
On the 7410 we had, we ended up having one set of outlets rebuilt. Our JD mechanic replaced it with a set for a 7400 which includes a release lever. Couldn't tell any difference hooking up, but it was better unhooking.
 

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