Roll-over plow

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sizmic

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Anybody have any experience with a roll-over moldboard plow, I think I would be able to use a 4-16" and save some headaches with our irregular fields?

Sizmic
 
Used 1 a lot when growing up in the 60's & early 70's. Allows you to go back and forth just like planting row crops. Can plow most any direction including on the contour if desired. Seen them used to both rebuild and knock down terraces and waterway berms.

When plowing fields we would usually run whatever direction gave us the longest runs and then plow out the headlands to finish up.

As John mentioned, you will probably need at least 1000lb+ front weights on a 2wd, maybe a little less on mfwd.

Just another 2 cents worth.
 
they have many advantages over a conventional plow, including a nice level field :)

You will need weights up front, generally a full set. We used to have 4 by 14 on the back of a Ford 7610, but the same plow on a 7810 (same power but 6 cylinder) is much better balanced. A 7710 would play with it, assuming they had the power :)
 
Like PaPaw, I grew up busting with a moldboard. Don't see them being used much any more. Pretty much everyone around here has gone to no till.
 
If I wanted to replant a pasture, knowing what the plow can do to soil life, I believe I would use glyphosate to kill off the existing vegetation and quickly replant, no till in the seed. It is important for immediate replanting as some of the soil life (arbuscular mycorrhiza, a fungus) has a symbiotic relationship only with live roots.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arbuscular_mycorrhiza
 
Of the different establishment methods, no-till is the best in most situations, the I believe where you have to work the soil and strip tillage is not an option the the moldboard plow is better than cultivating.

There are several reason to plow these being to improve soil structure, level the land, bury organic matter etc. Having observed the three methods no-till works when you have good soil structure, and improves the soil, when you have poor soil structure the plow is a good way to help in restoring it.

You do need to look at each field, even part of fields separably, and then decide on the best solution,
 
Rollover plows are hard to find here, used one a lot in the UK where I grew up, if I could find one I'd buy it in a minute, as you realize small or irregular shape fields mean you can start at the longest edge and little dead time turning at the ends. Proper weighting is essential not just for traction but also turning and rolling over the plow at the ends, with fairly level ground and not too heavy a clay soil, a 4wd tractor with adequate hydraulics can pull one bottom per 25hp approx. and as far as workrate goes a 4 bottom rollover can plow as much as a 5x conventional in a day.
 
Thanks for all the replies.
Robert, there are a few down here. Being from the State that pretty well perfected no-till most of them were sent to the scrap yard. I am seeing a lot of them being pulled out of the weeds and hooked to tractors again. We rotate pasture fields a lot and have had way better luck with deep tillage than no till. With the advent of new soil conditioners "Monty's" for example we are really making some big improvements in our wet clay ground. Don't misread this as convicting "no-till" just saying it doesn't cure everything.

Sizmic
 
if you find a Kverneland reasonably priced let me know, that would be my brand of choice, really good auto reset system, easy to set up and run, not excessively heavy either. Krone build a similar style. 3 or 4 bottom works for me.
 
COMAIR":i5x9sw0z said:
1wlimo
Will you explain soil structure?

Sure what would you like to know?

A ideal soil structure starts off with very fine small soil particle's at the surface for good seed to soil contact, yet you require this to be stable ans resist erosion.
As we descend down through the soil the particle size needs to increase in a gradual way.

Many cultivators can not produce this structure in general, like roto tillers, power harrows, discs, simple field cultivators. While eah have there strengths and uses when used incorrectly especially roto tillers they produce a too deep profile of the fine soil particle's with no graduation. This leaves to soil prone to slum, and erosion, and their action can lead to smearing leading to a pan.

The moldboard's lifting and breaking action can rectify many of these problems,

High sand soils and high organic soils have very little of any structure due to nature of these materials.
 
The moldboard's lifting and breaking action can rectify many of these problems,

High sand soils and high organic soils have very little of any structure due to nature of these materials.
How does a moldboard change graduation? And if it did isn't only temporary?
What is wrong with high organic soils? Doesn't orgainc material feed the microbial system, earth worms, etc which feed the plants and improve soil structure.
I may be wrong but I always thought that the northern part of the continent had a deep frost line with a freeze thaw cycle that does a good job of breaking up the uperlayers of soil.
Now how does a moldboard prevent erosion? Isn't it the plants and roots that hold the soil together. You make a fair case as far as row crop planting. In a pasture other than preparing hard pan to grow something I cannot see the economics panning out.
 
novatech":bli9y5yf said:
The moldboard's lifting and breaking action can rectify many of these problems,

High sand soils and high organic soils have very little of any structure due to nature of these materials.
How does a moldboard change graduation? And if it did isn't only temporary?

The effects of any cultivation will have a lasting effect till other environmental factors, or further working reduce them.

What is wrong with high organic soils? Doesn't orgainc material feed the microbial system, earth worms, etc which feed the plants and improve soil structure.

The fact that organic soils have little structure is not a problem, due to the way they work, and if we were to improve our mineral soils with organic matter they will be better.

I may be wrong but I always thought that the northern part of the continent had a deep frost line with a freeze thaw cycle that does a good job of breaking up the uperlayers of soil.

I though so, and was told this, however me experience, and post by others on here would say that these effects are only the top few inches.

Now how does a moldboard prevent erosion? Isn't it the plants and roots that hold the soil together. You make a fair case as far as row crop planting. In a pasture other than preparing hard pan to grow something I cannot see the economics panning out.

The effect of moldboard plowing in reducing erosion is mainly to do with increase water infiltration to greater depth, and the less uniform small size of soil particles at on very near to the surface.
Much better control of erosion can come from strip till, or zero-till in good soil structure.

As to economics, depends their are farmers plowing for less cost than some using disks, and or field cultivators as a primary tool. Some small farmers in Europe can possibly carry on plowing to establish crops than moving to a direct drill system, mainly as they have the equipment and it is uneconomic to up grade the tractor and purchase a new seed drill. Especially if they grow a second year wheat as they really need to plow to remove residue to gain an economic yield.
 

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