Play in Stump Jumper/Blades

[Bright Raven]

Bushhog 296. How much play or wobble is normal? I can reach under, grasp a blade and wiggle the stump jumper up and down. I crawled under and the stump jumper is well upon the splined shaft. The cotter key is still holding the nut on the shaft.

 

[skyhightree1]

Bushhog 296. How much play or wobble is normal? I can reach under, grasp a blade and wiggle the stump jumper up and down. I crawled under and the stump jumper is well upon the splined shaft. The cotter key is still holding the nut on the shaft.

Sounds like your splines are getting messed up and worn creating the play in it. Is the nut tight ?

 

[Bright Raven]

Bushhog 296. How much play or wobble is normal? I can reach under, grasp a blade and wiggle the stump jumper up and down. I crawled under and the stump jumper is well upon the splined shaft. The cotter key is still holding the nut on the shaft.

Sounds like your splines are getting messed up and worn creating the play in it. Is the nut tight?

Yes. It is a turret nut. Cotter pin still in place. Maybe it still has a couple threads above cotter. I should check!!!

 

[skyhightree1]

Bushhog 296. How much play or wobble is normal? I can reach under, grasp a blade and wiggle the stump jumper up and down. I crawled under and the stump jumper is well upon the splined shaft. The cotter key is still holding the nut on the shaft.

Sounds like your splines are getting messed up and worn creating the play in it. Is the nut tight?

Yes. It is a turret nut. Cotter pin still in place. Maybe it still has a couple threads above cotter. I should check!!!

I would check but sounds like your splines are jacked up.

 

[Bright Raven]

Sounds like your splines are getting messed up and worn creating the play in it. Is the nut tight?

Yes. It is a turret nut. Cotter pin still in place. Maybe it still has a couple threads above cotter. I should check!!!

I would check but sounds like your splines are jacked up.

Thanks, Jules. I got a new 8 foot hog coming this weekend. But I will check. I like the small hog for steep places.

 

[JW IN VA]

Sometimes it helps to find someone with a 3/4" impact to tighten that nut with.Both my Landpride 7' and Bush Hog 8' needed it.Anti-sieze on the threads.

 

[Bright Raven]

Sometimes it helps to find someone with a 3/4" impact to tighten that nut with.Both my Landpride 7' and Bush Hog 8' needed it.Anti-sieze on the threads.

I bet that is exactly what it needs!!!

 

[greybeard]

Bushhog 296. How much play or wobble is normal? I can reach under, grasp a blade and wiggle the stump jumper up and down. I crawled under and the stump jumper is well upon the splined shaft. The cotter key is still holding the nut on the shaft.

Is it a Modern or Rhino brand? I've seen both wear the splines and they are usually worn both on the shaft and the hub. I've had luck before, pulling the cotter pin and tightening the nut up some more, which pushes the hub further up on the shaft where good splines are and but once, had to fashion a thick washer when the nut was bottomed out on the shoulder of the shaft. The washer will need a larger id than the shaft's shoulder and the nut needs to be a castellated flange nut. I tightened the nut to refusal with a 1' drive set, then with a hammer wrench and BFH then reinstalled the cotter pin. It has lasted several years and the last time I used it, it seemed to be holding up. I did consider welding the hub to the shaft but decided not to. A hammer wrench can tighten it tighter than any but the biggest impacts can remove. Be careful about it bouncing back tho..helps to put a bungee cord holding it in the direction of rotation..or get someone to hold some tension on it with a piece of sash cord. don't break the shaft....


You can buy the output shaft for the gearbox and a new stump jumper hub too, for most mowers if they aren't too ancient, just make sure you get the lash correct in the gears...it will all have shims.

 

[Bright Raven]

Bushhog 296. How much play or wobble is normal? I can reach under, grasp a blade and wiggle the stump jumper up and down. I crawled under and the stump jumper is well upon the splined shaft. The cotter key is still holding the nut on the shaft.

Is it a Modern or Rhino brand? I've seen both wear the splines and they are usually worn both on the shaft and the hub. I've had luck before, pulling the cotter pin and tightening the nut up some more, which pushes the hub further up on the shaft where good splines are and but once, had to fashion a thick washer when the nut was bottomed out on the shoulder of the shaft. The washer will need a larger id than the shaft's shoulder and the nut needs to be a castellated flange nut. I tightened the nut to refusal with a 1' drive set, then with a hammer wrench and BFH then reinstalled the cotter pin. It has lasted several years and the last time I used it, it seemed to be holding up. I did consider welding the hub to the shaft but decided not to. A hammer wrench can tighten it tighter than any but the biggest impacts can remove. Be careful about it bouncing back tho..helps to put a bungee cord holding it in the direction of rotation..or get someone to hold some tension on it with a piece of sash cord.


You can buy the output shaft for the gearbox and a new stump jumper hub too, for most mowers if they aren't too ancient, just make sure you get the lash correct in the gears...it will all have shims.

It is a Modern Brand. About 6 years old. Thanks for the details. I will study that. Off cuff, I think it will last if I get it tight. I don't think the splines are bad on the shaft or the hub. Appreciate you sharing your experience.

 

[greybeard]

If the play is between the hub and shaft, it has some wear if you've used it much at all.
Don't be surprised to find pointy splines. ..they shouldn't be but should be flat on top.

But, you already know the drill...
http://cattletoday.com/forum/viewtopic. ... 0&t=105855

 

[ClodHopper37869]

I think the toque specs on that nut is 450 - 475 ft/lbs, but some are 650 Ft-lbs, you can download a manual, @ bushhog.com double check.

 

[Bright Raven]

If the play is between the hub and shaft, it has some wear if you've used it much at all.
Don't be surprised to find pointy splines. ..they shouldn't be but should be flat on top.

But, you already know the drill...
http://cattletoday.com/forum/viewtopic. ... 0&t=105855

Yep. This is the replacement stump jumper and I only tightened it with an inch drive socket set that I got for the Dozer. I was checking it and noticed there was some play. Running probably freed up a little room. Now I need to get it up there much tighter or I am going to have the same mess on my hands.

In fact, I just got back inside. I put down a crib with some locust planks. Lifted the hog and set it up on there. I got under it, took out the cotter pin and used the breaker bar and socket to get another turn and a half on the nut. I put a crow bar through the yoke on the gear box. If I had a big air impact wrench, I bet I could get another full turn.

 

[True Grit Farms]

Bushhog 296. How much play or wobble is normal? I can reach under, grasp a blade and wiggle the stump jumper up and down. I crawled under and the stump jumper is well upon the splined shaft. The cotter key is still holding the nut on the shaft.

Sounds like your splines are getting messed up and worn creating the play in it. Is the nut tight?

Yes. It is a turret nut. Cotter pin still in place. Maybe it still has a couple threads above cotter. I should check!!!

I went through this with you awhile back when you replaced the stump jumper. A rotary mower isn't a bush hog, Bush Hog is a brand name. And the nut is called a castle nut not a turret nut. Please get your stuff together, I'm trying to teach you right, but dang is it hard.

 

[Bright Raven]

Sounds like your splines are getting messed up and worn creating the play in it. Is the nut tight?

Yes. It is a turret nut. Cotter pin still in place. Maybe it still has a couple threads above cotter. I should check!!!

I went through this with you awhile back when you replaced the stump jumper. A rotary mower isn't a bush hog, Bush Hog is a brand name. And the nut is called a castle nut not a turret nut. Please get your stuff together, I'm trying to teach you right, but dang is it hard.

You are correct. I humbly ask your indulgence. Castle nut is right. I keep thinking of those turrets on the castle wall. Lol

 

[greybeard]

If I don''t have the right size hammer wrench, I prefer to work on the bottom end of one with it leaning against and securely tied to a big post or tree trunk.
I just cut a piece of pipe or heavy angle iron and wedge it between a blade bolt and the bottom of the mower because I can get more 'ummph' on a big wrench and cheater if I'm pulling down on it than if I'm pulling sideways (horizontally). Even with the hammer wrench, I still like the mower standing up on one side.

Yes, there's a difference between a Bush Hog® and a brush hog.
Kinda like the difference between a Coke or a soft drink or soda pop.........

 

[wbvs58]

I think the toque specs on that nut is 450 - 475 ft/lbs, but some are 650 Ft-lbs, you can download a manual, @ bushhog.com double check.

65lb weight on the end of a 10' cheater bar or pipe or 130lb on end of 5' bar.

Ken

 

[JW IN VA]

Yes, there's a difference between a Bush Hog® and a brush hog.
Kinda like the difference between a Coke or a soft drink or soda pop.........[/quote]

Some more:


Haybine
Fridgidaire
Cresent Wrench
Vise Grips

A lot of people "bush hog" but there a few Bush Hogs around here.

 

[hurleyjd]

How about buying a locknut and getting rid of the cotter key type setup. Try to find a nut that does not have the nylon locking type and one that is all steel.

 

[greybeard]

How about buying a locknut and getting rid of the cotter key type setup. Try to find a nut that does not have the nylon locking type and one that is all steel.

If everything is correct, there aren't many threads below the bottom of the nut. A locknut that size and SAE threaded may be hard to find..