Non detergent oil

[rnh2]

I have noticed on some sites people recommending using non detergent oil in old gas burning tractors and air cooled engines. I was always taught the more detergent the better.whats y'all's take

 

[jltrent]

If your gas tractor has a filter Multi-velosity detergent oil should work good. The detergents help clean the engine inside and let the filters clean the oil better as it circulates.

 

[Caustic Burno]

I have noticed on some sites people recommending using non detergent oil in old gas burning tractors and air cooled engines. I was always taught the more detergent the better.whats y'all's take

If you like working on engines it's great! Remember pulling valve covers and you couldn't even see the rockers for sludge. Get a motor with 60k it was almost solid sludge.

 

[Nesikep]

I hear it's also recommended for air compressors and oil-lite bronze bushings

 

[ClodHopper37869]

As far as I know, No engine manufactures recommend a non detergent oil, Well maybe some of that s#!% made in China, and you see what kinda mess we're in over China crap!

http://www.crap-from-china.com

 

[Redgully]

Put a detergent oil in an old engine and you will see why you need non detergent.

 

[Caustic Burno]

Put a detergent oil in an old engine and you will see why you need non detergent.

What do you consider old?
Detergents oils have been in production for over 60 years.

 

[Nesikep]

https://youtu.be/K4Kou-LDTc4

 

[Redgully]

Put a detergent oil in an old engine and you will see why you need non detergent.

What do you consider old?
Detergents oils have been in production for over 60 years.

Expanding a little, an old sump splash lubricated engine that had spent it's life with non detergent oil, if you change to a detergent oil it starts cleaning all the crud off every surface and you end up with big problems.

 

[Caustic Burno]

Put a detergent oil in an old engine and you will see why you need non detergent.

What do you consider old?
Detergents oils have been in production for over 60 years.

Expanding a little, an old sump splash lubricated engine that had spent it's life with non detergent oil, if you change to a detergent oil it starts cleaning all the crud off every surface and you end up with big problems.

That would cause you to improve your mechanic skills. Motors that require non-detergent oil that haven't been rebuilt are about as rare as chicken lips.

 

[Texasmark]

Back in the days of non detergent oils, valve jobs were at 45k miles and total engine overhauls were at 100k miles in my neck of the woods...S. Texas......but you had to flush the blocks with hot solvent first to get the sludge out of the way so that you could get to the metal.

I remember when Texaco came out with Havoline HD 20w and 30w. Mom used 20 in the winter and 30 in the summer......Texaco dealer at the end of the block serviced her car. Any engine I saw torn down when that hit the market was nothing but sludge course, I lived in town and 2 miles from the house to down town was "a trip".

Removing sludge from old engines isn't always bad. Sometimes an oil burner ceases to burn oil because sludge has stuck the rings to the pistons and they can't function properly, valves tend to stick in the valve guides and all. Gotta remember that owner's manuals for old equipment were written in the day. Today you are using today's lubricants. Night and day. Something to think about while you are driving around in your newer pickup truck running 250-350k miles without a wrench on the engine major!

 

[ClodHopper37869]

Back in the days of non detergent oils, valve jobs were at 45k miles and total engine overhauls were at 100k miles in my neck of the woods...S. Texas......but you had to flush the blocks with hot solvent first to get the sludge out of the way so that you could get to the metal.

I remember when Texaco came out with Havoline HD 20w and 30w. Mom used 20 in the winter and 30 in the summer......Texaco dealer at the end of the block serviced her car. Any engine I saw torn down when that hit the market was nothing but sludge course, I lived in town and 2 miles from the house to down town was "a trip".

Removing sludge from old engines isn't always bad. Sometimes an oil burner ceases to burn oil because sludge has stuck the rings to the pistons and they can't function properly, valves tend to stick in the valve guides and all. Gotta remember that owner's manuals for old equipment were written in the day. Today you are using today's lubricants. Night and day. Something to think about while you are driving around in your newer pickup truck running 250-350k miles without a wrench on the engine major!

Oil, filters, engines are 100 times better today than in the 50's & 60's, yet we still have people changing oil at 2000 miles, because their daddy did, and he always sold or traded at 75 thousand miles.

 

[Redgully]

What do you consider old?
Detergents oils have been in production for over 60 years.

Expanding a little, an old sump splash lubricated engine that had spent it's life with non detergent oil, if you change to a detergent oil it starts cleaning all the crud off every surface and you end up with big problems.

That would cause you to improve your mechanic skills. Motors that require non-detergent oil that haven't been rebuilt are about as rare as chicken lips.

Well as i restore vintage engines i beg to differ, i see them all the time. A lot of Australian built engines were just that. I work on a lot of howard built engines which are dry sump engines which require a straight 70 grade oil which is near impossible to get but we get away with a straight 50. I see clapped out howards all the time from multi grade oils.

 

[ClodHopper37869]

[/quote]
Well as i restore vintage engines i beg to differ, i see them all the time. A lot of Australian built engines were just that. I work on a lot of howard built engines which are dry sump engines which require a straight 70 grade oil which is near impossible to get but we get away with a straight 50. I see clapped out howards all the time from multi grade oils.
[/quote]

The laws of physics are reversed south of the equator. :lol:

 

[Texasmark]

Back in the days of non detergent oils, valve jobs were at 45k miles and total engine overhauls were at 100k miles in my neck of the woods...S. Texas......but you had to flush the blocks with hot solvent first to get the sludge out of the way so that you could get to the metal.

I remember when Texaco came out with Havoline HD 20w and 30w. Mom used 20 in the winter and 30 in the summer......Texaco dealer at the end of the block serviced her car. Any engine I saw torn down when that hit the market was nothing but sludge course, I lived in town and 2 miles from the house to down town was "a trip".

Removing sludge from old engines isn't always bad. Sometimes an oil burner ceases to burn oil because sludge has stuck the rings to the pistons and they can't function properly, valves tend to stick in the valve guides and all. Gotta remember that owner's manuals for old equipment were written in the day. Today you are using today's lubricants. Night and day. Something to think about while you are driving around in your newer pickup truck running 250-350k miles without a wrench on the engine major!

Oil, filters, engines are 100 times better today than in the 50's & 60's, yet we still have people changing oil at 2000 miles, because their daddy did, and he always sold or traded at 75 thousand miles.

And they buy Fords (for a brand) too because great great grandpaw did, and great grandpaw did and and and. :deadhorse:

 

[Texasmark]

Expanding a little, an old sump splash lubricated engine that had spent it's life with non detergent oil, if you change to a detergent oil it starts cleaning all the crud off every surface and you end up with big problems.

That would cause you to improve your mechanic skills. Motors that require non-detergent oil that haven't been rebuilt are about as rare as chicken lips.

Well as i restore vintage engines i beg to differ, i see them all the time. A lot of Australian built engines were just that. I work on a lot of howard built engines which are dry sump engines which require a straight 70 grade oil which is near impossible to get but we get away with a straight 50. I see clapped out howards all the time from multi grade oils.

We didn't have any of those when I was growing up. It was Fords and Chevys, few Chrysler Corp. vehicles, Briggs here and there.....that was about it. We used gear oil in the trannys and differentials, 90w mineral I guess.....GL1 by today's standards. Never saw nor heard of anything in the 50-70 range.

 

[Redgully]

That would cause you to improve your mechanic skills. Motors that require non-detergent oil that haven't been rebuilt are about as rare as chicken lips.

Well as i restore vintage engines i beg to differ, i see them all the time. A lot of Australian built engines were just that. I work on a lot of howard built engines which are dry sump engines which require a straight 70 grade oil which is near impossible to get but we get away with a straight 50. I see clapped out howards all the time from multi grade oils.

We didn't have any of those when I was growing up. It was Fords and Chevys, few Chrysler Corp. vehicles, Briggs here and there.....that was about it. We used gear oil in the trannys and differentials, 90w mineral I guess.....GL1 by today's standards. Never saw nor heard of anything in the 50-70 range.

I believe some Harley Davidson bikes required this heavy oil too. Dry sump engines the oil never gets that hot and if you put a lower weight oil in the engine can never develop the required pressure and the big end disintegrates. You should see the piston slap in some of these engines, a good 3mm and still running! And people wonder why they have lost power.