RDFF
Well-known member
4440 would be about the same as my 2wd... That'd pull a single15' just fine.
No Till Drill Selection ?
- Thread starter Stocker Steve
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We have a UFT 14 footer.
It's a really nice working unit, but I can't recommend it because of parts. UFT has been sold to Arts-Way, they have some parts, but who knows if they are going to continue producing them.
I tore it all apart last year, mice had chewed the plastic meters, and there was some other work that needed to be done, just maintenance mostly, bearings, press wheel tires, etc.
I have pulled it with a Case 5240 2wd before, on flat, dry ground, it does fine.
We have rented several Great Plains units, they work fine as well, although I don't prefer the hub-lock type of drill engagement. Too easy to forget when doing multiple fields.
It's a really nice working unit, but I can't recommend it because of parts. UFT has been sold to Arts-Way, they have some parts, but who knows if they are going to continue producing them.
I tore it all apart last year, mice had chewed the plastic meters, and there was some other work that needed to be done, just maintenance mostly, bearings, press wheel tires, etc.
I have pulled it with a Case 5240 2wd before, on flat, dry ground, it does fine.
We have rented several Great Plains units, they work fine as well, although I don't prefer the hub-lock type of drill engagement. Too easy to forget when doing multiple fields.
RDFF
Well-known member
There's a world of difference between the row unit downforce on a UFT and a Deere... just look at the downforce springs on the UFT (image below)... not really much different than a "regular grain drill". Outside diameter of that spring is about 1 1/4". Pull up on them against that spring, and you'll likely be able to compress the spring by hand fully. That's why these kind of drills often put alot of attention on putting a coulter cart in front of the openers, and then call it a "no till drill"... But what's the purpose of that coulter cart? To "till" ahead of the drill opener, to get the seed into the soil better, because without that, it just won't do the job. Not so much of a no-till drill then at that point. Then look at the Deere opener arm (solid cast iron) and the size of the downforce spring there (about a 3" diameter spring, and the coils are probably 3-4 times as thick of steel). There's just no comparison... they're in entirely different worlds when it comes to the opener, all by itself, being able to cut into the soil, and then place the seed in the bottom of the trench. Add to that the design of the Deere which additionally has a fully independent floating "seedloc wheel" running behind the seed boot down IN the trench to press the seed into the bottom of the trench, plus behind that a fully independent floating closing wheel (these are STILL a subject of much discussion, and "could be better", expecially in "no-till heavy residue" situations... LOTS of aftermarket options intended to address this better... but it's still WORLD'S ahead of most of the drills out there, and almost identical to the CIH closing system). Because the Deere unit has only a single 18" disc to cut through residue, it will cut through it easier and better (would you cut through a corn stalk easier with a single knife with alot of pressure on it, or with two knives right along side of each other?... it's a much thinner cut line, in ONE spot, and once it cuts through, it only moves dirt to ONE side, about the same amount as EACH opener disc has to move the dirt on a double disc opener setup), plus, it has ALOT more downforce on it, so because it actually goes in the ground so much better, and because its so much heavier overall, the Deere will automatically require more HP to pull than these other lighter weight NT drills, typically even if the lighter opener drills have a coulter cart on them. They're just MUCH heavier, with alot more downforce applied to the opener. No need for putting a coutler cart in front of them at all. Think about it... when did you ever see a Deere 750 or newer version with a coulter cart in front of it? I know I never have...
I'm not a Deere rep, and I'm not bred any color. I don't make anything for advocating for them. I'm just telling you what I know, because the question was asked. I've covered alot of acres with the Deere. I know what the differences are between these drills, and know that "red" has one that's pretty good too...... I just personally feel that the Deere design is still better overall (and my friend that organically farms 2000 acres and has a CIH500 would probably beg to differ with me). One other thing about the Deere and the CIH 500... they are both "double ranked" or sometimes more... sometimes they're "triple ranked", where those like the UFT here are "single rank" drills... Sunflower and Landoll are too (the openers are "staggered" only a few inches, instead of FEET on the Deere and the CIH, but they're still in a single rank... with a very minimal distance between the row units laterally). This puts your openers ALOT closer together, which, when you get into heavy residue like cornstalks, can create a pretty tight squeeze for the residue to flow through... so they can tend to plug much more easily, especially in "tough going", like wet, tough corn stalks in the fall. Smaller diameter discs will also create more of a "flow through issue". If you ask the no-till "experts" like Needham's and Exapta, they'll tell you these same things, and MOST are strong advocates of the Deere design over everything else. Most will also tell you that the CIH parallel linkage is a really good advantage, and the one downfall of the Deere design. But they will also be quick to point out the other flaws they see in the CIH vs. the Deere....
I'm not a Deere rep, and I'm not bred any color. I don't make anything for advocating for them. I'm just telling you what I know, because the question was asked. I've covered alot of acres with the Deere. I know what the differences are between these drills, and know that "red" has one that's pretty good too...... I just personally feel that the Deere design is still better overall (and my friend that organically farms 2000 acres and has a CIH500 would probably beg to differ with me). One other thing about the Deere and the CIH 500... they are both "double ranked" or sometimes more... sometimes they're "triple ranked", where those like the UFT here are "single rank" drills... Sunflower and Landoll are too (the openers are "staggered" only a few inches, instead of FEET on the Deere and the CIH, but they're still in a single rank... with a very minimal distance between the row units laterally). This puts your openers ALOT closer together, which, when you get into heavy residue like cornstalks, can create a pretty tight squeeze for the residue to flow through... so they can tend to plug much more easily, especially in "tough going", like wet, tough corn stalks in the fall. Smaller diameter discs will also create more of a "flow through issue". If you ask the no-till "experts" like Needham's and Exapta, they'll tell you these same things, and MOST are strong advocates of the Deere design over everything else. Most will also tell you that the CIH parallel linkage is a really good advantage, and the one downfall of the Deere design. But they will also be quick to point out the other flaws they see in the CIH vs. the Deere....
ValleyView
Well-known member
Same here. Looking at the new Tar River drills seem to fit my price point, but they look kind of cheap made...
They are light duty. Depends on how how many acres you have any how much planting your doing. If your just planting pastures every year should be good. My old man been looking at that one for a couple of years. A used one cost more than that but feel like you can buy that Tar river new 2 them new ones for the price of some used ones. Heck if you need buy 2 one day used one for parts.
if you can't weld and fabricate you may not need be farming.All I can say is that the UFT works well for us.
Probably not the best choice for for planting beans in heavy residue, but if it can plant a stand of wheat like this in hard, October ground that hasn't been tilled in decades, if ever, it's a winner for our purposes.
Probably not the best choice for for planting beans in heavy residue, but if it can plant a stand of wheat like this in hard, October ground that hasn't been tilled in decades, if ever, it's a winner for our purposes.
ValleyView
Well-known member
I hear what you're saying. I guess my deal is, if I'm going to buy a drill that needs to be welded and fabricated often it is probably going to be a well known and better built drill. I don't use one often at the rental rate of $100 per day at our NRCS office, but if I had one handy, I'd try my darndest to keep it busy.They are light duty. Depends on how how many acres you have any how much planting your doing. If your just planting pastures every year should be good. My old man been looking at that one for a couple of years. A used one cost more than that but feel like you can buy that Tar river new 2 them new ones for the price of some used ones. Heck if you need buy 2 one day used one for parts.
