New hay barn

[lavacarancher]

I'm starting to build a new hay barn. I've had the first of several loads of gravel hauled in preparing the "road" in and the base of the barn. I acquired about 4000 feet of 2 3/8" pipe which I plan to use for the structure and attach "Z" channel to it to hold the tin.

I first thought about a lean-to type of construction (single pitched roof) all open on the 100' length but I think I've just about changed my mind because I want it to be open span and don't think I can do 100' without supports. Oh yea, I was planning on about 60X100 feet. I think I can do 60' open span with the proper cross and angle bracing but don't think I can do 100'. So that means I will have to build it like a conventional building with a double pitched roof and enter the building from the 60' end. (does any of this make sense?)

So what do you think? Anyone out there have this type of hay barn? How tall are the sides of your barns? Anyone have a link to pictures or plans of this type of a barn?

 

[dun]

I have a 40X110 open on the side hay barn. If I was going to do it again sunce the roof is built on trusses I would havd the sides closed and open on both ends That would give me the freespan for getting in and out wihtout interfence from the side supports.

 

[Angus Cowman]

I have 2 40 x 80s and 1 40 x 100 I have 1 40ft end open on all of these barns
am getting ready to build 2 more 40 x 100 barns and 1 40 x 80 barn am gonna leave them open on both ends as these are steel truss systems
on my wood truss Barns I prefer 1 end closed as it helps keep the barn from leaning

on the wood barns I prefer a minnimum of 14'6' of clearance under my trusses on my steel sytems I have a 13' clearance under my trusses at the wall and around 18'in the center

in a 40 x 80 wood barn I can stack 357 4x5bales

 

[novatech]

At a 100 feet you would have a single post in the center of the span, 2-50 foot openings. I don't think it makes a lot of difference. The end opening will give more protection on the sides but the long side would be more convenient. With a shed it would be easy to double the size at a later date.
As far as the height I would go 3 round bales plus a couple of feet. If you have small rounds prepare for large as you never know if you my have to buy some. Height is cheap relative to square footage.
Make sure to build your pad high enough to give good drainage. It should have a positive slope away from the building at least 6" drop in 10' out all the way around.
Don't forget to face the opening properly. We face ours east as the prevailing winds are either from the north or south and it is rare to get winds fom the east. This give more protection from the rain blowing in and also helps to protect against uplift which is the main reason barns get torn apart.

 

[Stocker Steve]

I built a 40x60x14 and closed in the 60' long NW side. Should have gone bigger...
My builder likes to put 2 posts on the end truss which effects access.
I added a beam in the center of the 60' long SE side to provide a 16' wide entry.
There was not enough gravel in my pad, so I had extra work to improve drainage around an existing structure.

 

[novatech]

I built a 40x60x14 and closed in the 60' long NW side. Should have gone bigger...
My builder likes to put 2 posts on the end truss which effects access.
I have seen a lot of builders do this. I never figured out why. If the truss will span the rest of the bard It should be adequate for the end. Plus the added support of the gable end tin.
I added a beam in the center of the 60' long SE side to provide a 16' wide entry.
Never seems to be enough doors.
There was not enough gravel in my pad, so I had extra work to improve drainage around an existing structure.
Ain't hindsight wonderful? You wouldn't beleive how many people make the same mistake with their house.

 

[dun]

100 foot with only one post in the middle, you must be talking metal framed buildings.

 

[novatech]

100 foot with only one post in the middle, you must be talking metal framed buildings.

Steel truss beam for header. I used second hand bar joists for mine.

 

[cypressfarms]

100 foot with only one post in the middle, you must be talking metal framed buildings.

Have to be.

I'm just rebuilding my barn from hurricane Gustav - I had to take off last year - and I'm making a pole barn (telephone poles in the ground for support). The only way to make it, without being really expensive is to make 16 foot spans. Anything over 16' gets real expensive. I was lucky to find used telephone poles for $25/each. I just have the poles up now, and I'll start on the framing soon. One thing I learned from the last barn, though - this one will be tall. 16' high clearance, and I'll have 16' to swing around in to get bales. An old Ford 6710 with cab and front end loader is looooong!

 

[novatech]

100 foot with only one post in the middle, you must be talking metal framed buildings.

Have to be.

I'm just rebuilding my barn from hurricane Gustav - I had to take off last year - and I'm making a pole barn (telephone poles in the ground for support). The only way to make it, without being really expensive is to make 16 foot spans. Anything over 16' gets real expensive. I was lucky to find used telephone poles for $25/each. I just have the poles up now, and I'll start on the framing soon. One thing I learned from the last barn, though - this one will be tall. 16' high clearance, and I'll have 16' to swing around in to get bales. An old Ford 6710 with cab and front end loader is looooong!

When your talking hurricane the most important consideration is strapping down the roof framing to the walls. The poles need to be deep and have concrete for weight. Up lift is what will take most of them down. (Like an airplane wing, low pressure with wind traveling over the top pulling up the roof, and high pressure inside with the wind blowing into the barn pushing the roof up.)
As far as span is concerned, wood truss headers or laminated beams can be purchased and are relatively inexpensive when these long spans are needed. Roof loads on sheet metal buildings are pretty light.

 

[cypressfarms]

When your talking hurricane the most important consideration is strapping down the roof framing to the walls. The poles need to be deep and have concrete for weight. Up lift is what will take most of them down. (Like an airplane wing, low pressure with wind traveling over the top pulling up the roof, and high pressure inside with the wind blowing into the barn pushing the roof up.)
As far as span is concerned, wood truss headers or laminated beams can be purchased and are relatively inexpensive when these long spans are needed. Roof loads on sheet metal buildings are pretty light.

Dead on Nova. When Gustav hit I watched the barn from the house. It did fine with the winds from two directions, but as soon as the wind came from the east it was like watching a kite take off! I had originally made the barn with 4x6's and some 4x4's. The 4x4 were all snapped at the ground, and the roof tore off the 4x6's. So this time I'm going back with telephone poles as the main supports. I got my hands on some c channels that are 20' long, so that will help.

 

[Stocker Steve]

What do you see as the payback on a purchased hay shed?

I realize it varies a lot with the value of your hay and the amount of rain you get.

I am looking at 5 to 7 yrs minimum.

 

[Angus Cowman]

It depends on how much you lose in hay per yr from weather and what $ amount you put on that lose
I figure hay stored outside in my part of the country loses at least $5 in value pr bale and I think that is conservative, this yr I would say it was closer to $10pr bale
plus not having to fight bales out of the snow and try to pull strings or net off of frozen bales has got to be worth something
so the last barn I had built will take 6 1/2 yrs to pay it off

 

[Stocker Steve]

so the last barn I had built will take 6 1/2 yrs to pay it off

What ranch investment(s) had the shortest pay off for you?

 

[novatech]

so the last barn I had built will take 6 1/2 yrs to pay it off

What ranch investment(s) had the shortest pay off for you?

losses of more than 14% of the soluble protein and more than 25% of the total digestible nutrients can occur in the most highly weathered portions of the bale (3). With DM losses of 33%, the cost of replacing the lost crude protein (8% loss) and total digestible nutrients (55% loss) could be as much as $22/bale.

I pulled this from something I Googled up.
How many years it woul take would also depend a lot on how much the hay cost to produce. High quality hay will decompose faster without protection. So if you are spending the money on fertilizer it would make sense to protect the investment. But if you are just raising filler hay then your not loosing much anyway.
To answer your question, fertilizer on hay would be the fastest payback if you protected it.(IMO)
I am not sure anyone can calculate the extra years gained by protecting your equipment in a shed as vs. leaving out in the rain but I would think one could gain a few extra years on that not so cheap hay equipment, planters, shredders, etc.

 

[Angus Cowman]

I would agree with Nova Fertilizer has the fastest payback of anything on the place
I would say my overhead feed bins has the fastest payback of any thing I ever put up
paid for them in 2yrs between reduced feed cost and labor saving

 

[Stocker Steve]

Had some nice clover hay that sat out and turned black. That convinced me on the first hay barn.

I don't like equipment to sit out, but most of my stuff is to old I can not justify a cover for it. The tractors and the swather do go inside.

Fertilizer return is interesting. The limiting factor and it's price per ton is pretty variable. Right now I am buying in a lot of hay and a little fertilizer. Fertilizing everything for a 4 ton yield is a N/P/K/S/B budget buster.

 

[upfrombottom]

Also to be factored in, is the investment in a good quality barn, that will last for several generations, could add to the value of the property immensely. But. with that added value, comes higher property taxes.

 

[Stocker Steve]

Also to be factored in, is the investment in a good quality barn, that will last for several generations, could add to the value of the property immensely. But. with that added value, comes higher property taxes.

and insurance

 

[Stocker Steve]

Sounds like you can pay for a shed in 6 to 7 years storing decent quality hay, so why don't more folks put up a building???

Even if you do not have the money in the bank- - the savings could make an annual payment and at the end of 7 years you have the shed and a slightly higher property tax?