My brand was approved in SD

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With the breakup of land you have, you are probably best set up for steers. My understanding of western SD is you probably can't support 10 cows on 120 acres of grass. You could support a lot of steers if you want to with the hay ground helping, assuming it's irrigated.
 
Do nothing until you have catch pens and a headgate or a squeeze. You can thank me later. After that there is nothing wrong with buying some gentle older bred cows.
IMO, when starting out, your first priority HAS TO BE keeping them contained on the property... so a decent perimeter fence.

Second, you will need to have SOME means of containing them individually when they need work, or for sorting, loading in and out, etc. And you want to be able to do that safely... I'm a fan of the heavy 24' freestanding panels, and I wouldn't install a corral "in the ground" again. You can always sell them, if things don't work out for you... you can always change how you've got them arranged. You can always expand as your herd size grows. AND... if you know somebody that already has them, you can probably work out a rental arrangement... EVERYBODY doesn't have to own everything, for sure. You don't NEED to have alot of them, but you DO need to have enough to do what you need to do, when you need to do it. The same guy with the panels probably has a portable squeeze that he'd be willing to rent to you too, if you'll be needing that. But you can also get by with what I recently learned (here on CT) is called a Medina Hinge... go through this thread for more info on that... Bud Box vs. Bud Flow Tub. You can do alot with just that, and it would be pretty cheap to do. Find a good used headgate maybe online, if you can't work something out for renting the equipment you need at first. If you have the Medina hinge and a headgate, you don't necessarily need a squeeze chute for most things.

If you don't have experience with cattle, you're going to need to GET that experience "on the fly". You can avoid alot of costly mistakes and investing in too much "overhead" that you can't justify, by asking questions of guys that have already been doing it awhile... they have already PAID for their education, and most of the time are willing to share what they've learned with you for free. CT is a great place to meet them and pick their brain.
 
We started out with bred cows. You learn by doing! I would encourage you to get a mentor or neighbor that can advise you on what works in your area, which includes which type of cattle thrive & sell for the best price. And establish a relationship with the nearest large animal vet!!!! I can't stress that enough, especially with the new restrictions that will be implemented later this year. Handling facilities are extremely important. Even if you decide to run stockers, you need some way of restraining them for the eventual doctoring and loading. They're cattle - they will get sick, hurt or just need vaccinations at some point in time.
 
What's the fun of leasing it out? I'd go for some PTIC mature cows (preg tested in calf for those that don't speak stralian).

Ken
After that there is nothing wrong with buying some gentle older bred cows
I watched a sale in KS today. You probably can't justify the cost of aged breds right now. Anything that was short and solid or broken mouth was sold by the pound. They killed a bunch of third stage cow.
 
I watched a sale in KS today. You probably can't justify the cost of aged breds right now. Anything that was short and solid or broken mouth was sold by the pound. They killed a bunch of third stage cow.
It makes me sick when I hear about how many good cows are discarded simply because their front teeth are worn down.
 
We're not trying to make a profit here SBMF, we are trying to gain some experience. So what if we over pay. Experience is expensive. Older bred cows generally provide a calf to sale. Thats a big deal for folks just starting out.
 
I would agree. Although the prices I saw guys paying for 6wt strs yesterday in IA and KS would make the margin for error VERY small.
I'd say lease out the pasture and sell the hay for a couple years. Get some more experience and see where this market goes.
I have the pasture leased for this year. I think all the money will be invested in fencing.
No experience at all, I'd say lease it out, as has been mentioned, perhaps "custom graze" some critters for someone else, and get the experience on their overhead investment, watch how much weight you're able to put on his animals, calculate what the "buy in" cost would have been on them, and the "sell out" payment would have been, and see if it would have worked for you to have bought them in the first place. Maybe do this a couple of years, to get an "average" and an understanding of what it takes to make it go... and THEN take the plunge into investing in some for yourself. NOBODY CARES IF THE CATTLE ON YOUR PLACE ARE YOURS OR SOMEBODY ELSE'S. You're still the one working 'em, if that's what you want to be doing.

I do both, and have now for several years... not sure yet which way has more potential for "profit", but my overhead cost is definitely alot less when it's somebody else's cattle that I'm caring for. Nice part of my arrangement is that in spring when it gets muddy, we ship the cows off to his place for calving, and they come back when the grass comes in. If they're all yours, you don't necessarily have that "option".
Thats a great idea about penning them at the neighbors while there calving. I think I am going to buy 5-10 steers this year. My neighbor who is leasing my land said mine can run on his place too. I for a start just want beef for my family.
 
We're not trying to make a profit here SBMF, we are trying to gain some experience. So what if we over pay. Experience is expensive. Older bred cows generally provide a calf to sale. Thats a big deal for folks just starting out.
One neighbor said you cannot go wrong with broken mouth bred cows, my other neighbor said he took his worst loss on broken mouth cows. lol Another neighbor said a good 4-6 year old cow has proven herself and will give calves for many years. Maybe 5 steers and 5 bred solid mouth cows???
 
With the breakup of land you have, you are probably best set up for steers. My understanding of western SD is you probably can't support 10 cows on 120 acres of grass. You could support a lot of steers if you want to with the hay ground helping, assuming it's irrigated.
the neighbor said 40 pairs for 4 months he has ran on my land.
 
We started out with bred cows. You learn by doing! I would encourage you to get a mentor or neighbor that can advise you on what works in your area, which includes which type of cattle thrive & sell for the best price. And establish a relationship with the nearest large animal vet!!!! I can't stress that enough, especially with the new restrictions that will be implemented later this year. Handling facilities are extremely important. Even if you decide to run stockers, you need some way of restraining them for the eventual doctoring and loading. They're cattle - they will get sick, hurt or just need vaccinations at some point in time.
I have great neighbors and they have been helping me alot. Crap I didnt give much thought to pens and a chute.
 
IMO, when starting out, your first priority HAS TO BE keeping them contained on the property... so a decent perimeter fence.

Second, you will need to have SOME means of containing them individually when they need work, or for sorting, loading in and out, etc. And you want to be able to do that safely... I'm a fan of the heavy 24' freestanding panels, and I wouldn't install a corral "in the ground" again. You can always sell them, if things don't work out for you... you can always change how you've got them arranged. You can always expand as your herd size grows. AND... if you know somebody that already has them, you can probably work out a rental arrangement... EVERYBODY doesn't have to own everything, for sure. You don't NEED to have alot of them, but you DO need to have enough to do what you need to do, when you need to do it. The same guy with the panels probably has a portable squeeze that he'd be willing to rent to you too, if you'll be needing that. But you can also get by with what I recently learned (here on CT) is called a Medina Hinge... go through this thread for more info on that... Bud Box vs. Bud Flow Tub. You can do alot with just that, and it would be pretty cheap to do. Find a good used headgate maybe online, if you can't work something out for renting the equipment you need at first. If you have the Medina hinge and a headgate, you don't necessarily need a squeeze chute for most things.

If you don't have experience with cattle, you're going to need to GET that experience "on the fly". You can avoid alot of costly mistakes and investing in too much "overhead" that you can't justify, by asking questions of guys that have already been doing it awhile... they have already PAID for their education, and most of the time are willing to share what they've learned with you for free. CT is a great place to meet them and pick their brain.
I think my neighbors would help me with anything. I failed to think about the squeeze and pens. I very much appreciate your advice.
 
With the breakup of land you have, you are probably best set up for steers. My understanding of western SD is you probably can't support 10 cows on 120 acres of grass. You could support a lot of steers if you want to with the hay ground helping, assuming it's irrigated.
My neighbor says he has run 40 pairs for 4 months on our property,
 
It makes me sick when I hear about how many good cows are discarded simply because their front teeth are worn down.
They were splitting hfr pairs too. It didn't seem to matter; age, stage, or color. The packers were buying the vast majority of them.
 
I have the pasture leased for this year. I think all the money will be invested in fencing.

Thats a great idea about penning them at the neighbors while there calving. I think I am going to buy 5-10 steers this year. My neighbor who is leasing my land said mine can run on his place too. I for a start just want beef for my family.
If you want to have a couple of cows and go through calving to learn, get a couple of older, cull cows that are close to calving. They will run with your steers and most likely not have trouble calving because they have already proven themselves over years of experience. Sometimes you will find them with numbers on them, or tags with years, denoting what "model" they are. Look for 13/14 or newer, in good flesh but not fat, and that can walk and move well. DON'T buy heifers because the learning curve on them is likely to cost you money.

You don't want to see ribs... but you don't want to see pendulous briskets or pockets of jelly under the skin at the tail head.

Let them calve and raise it with your steers, and then sell the cow after the calf is seven months old. Likely you will get what you paid for her.
 
the neighbor said 40 pairs for 4 months he has ran on my land.
With the right cross fencing and rotational grazing I was getting a pair for every six acres. I think the land is better in Whitewood but who knows what you have . Post some pictures. You might also want to contact the local extension agent and have them come out to assess your forage and make some suggestions. If you get a good one they will be a lot of help. If they suggest a lot of high price ideas then I'd be skeptical...
 
I'm trying to take my steps in order before I get cattle. Now that my brand is approved I have to get fenced in. I have 120 acres of pasture and 70 of alfalfa/broam hay ground. I could use some opinions on whether I should start with some steer calves or bred cows?
What does success look like?
 
One neighbor said you cannot go wrong with broken mouth bred cows, my other neighbor said he took his worst loss on broken mouth cows. lol Another neighbor said a good 4-6 year old cow has proven herself and will give calves for many years. Maybe 5 steers and 5 bred solid mouth cows???
Opinions are like ***holes...everybody has one.
 

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