Jacking up settled barn post

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Ky cowboy

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The old barn on my farm needs 2 or 3 post jacked up, they've settled over time. It an old tobacco barn made from cresote round post no rot visible. I'm thinking of using a bottle jack and cribbing to get them level dig out from under it to the bottom and pour concrete around it. Does this sound like it will work suggestions appreciated. I'm not in a hurry to do this its only settled about 4 inches but has the roof sagging and needs to be addressed. But itll wait till it cools off
 
Should work fine. Only suggestion I have would be to dig around post before you start jacking. It will take a lot of stress off the framing.
 
JMJ Farms":2oooaza9 said:
Should work fine. Only suggestion I have would be to dig around post before you start jacking. It will take a lot of stress off the framing.
Yea that would help. Thanks
 
I would be inclined to cut the post off just above ground level and bolt some steel stirrup footings to it and dig the remains of the post out and set the steel in the concrete.

Ken
 
My preferred method is an engine cherry picker if you have one. wrap a chain around it lift it as high as you want nail a 2x6 at ground level. you can then put your concrete or fine sand in and pack it . leave 2x6 on until it settles . I have also used my tractor lift arms to raise one.
 
Dig around post to access bottom void.

I like the bottle jack and cribbing idea to move it slowly to avoid stress and breakage.

Raise just a bit higher than level to allow for further settling.

Fill hole with concrete.

Good luck!
 
M-5":2g38cw2e said:
My preferred method is an engine cherry picker if you have one. wrap a chain around it lift it as high as you want nail a 2x6 at ground level. you can then put your concrete or fine sand in and pack it . leave 2x6 on until it settles . I have also used my tractor lift arms to raise one.
I'd be inclined to tamp a little bit of dry Crete around at the bottom too...probably can't, but I like too drive a few nails around the base of the post so the Crete will form around them, and anchor it.....
 
ga.prime":1ltiqanb said:
JMJ Farms":1ltiqanb said:
ga.prime":1ltiqanb said:
I'd use a bumper jack, not a bottle jack.

Is a bumper jack the same as a high lift jack?
Yes

You gonna get him killed Prime! They sure are strong and definitely have their place but you dang sure better know what you're doing. Make a mistake and they sure ain't very forgiving. I think I've heard them referred to as 'house jacks' as well but I may be confused.
 
I never have good luck with hi lift jacks. They always want to kick out. But I'll give them both a try. First thing I have to do is get part of a loft tore out and a bunch of old insulation out of it. Previous owner was a pack rat and stuffed a make shift loft full of insulation
 
Ky cowboy":3dm7m07a said:
I never have good luck with hi lift jacks. They always want to kick out. But I'll give them both a try. First thing I have to do is get part of a loft tore out and a bunch of old insulation out of it. Previous owner was a pack rat and stuffed a make shift loft full of insulation

Since you mentioned a loft I will throw one more suggestion out there. If you're dealing with substantial weight.....and the post is sound..... Set up cribbing on two opposite sides of the post. Place two bottle jacks, one on both sets of cribbing. Then place a piece of steel or strong wood against the edge of the post and across the top of each jack. Chain the crossmember to the post where it can't jump. Then apply alternating pressure on each jack until you get the post up. This puts all the pressure on the post and is really safe bc if it's set up correctly nothing should buckle or shift when under pressure.

With this being said I've rigged up things that should've malfunctioned and killed me. But I get more and more careful as time goes on.
 
JMJ Farms":hbjm6rej said:
ga.prime":hbjm6rej said:
JMJ Farms":hbjm6rej said:
Is a bumper jack the same as a high lift jack?
Yes

You gonna get him killed Prime! They sure are strong and definitely have their place but you dang sure better know what you're doing. Make a mistake and they sure ain't very forgiving. I think I've heard them referred to as 'house jacks' as well but I may be confused.

I've heard them referred to as kangaroo jacks as well, the kangaroo tail being like the handle of the jack.

Ken
 
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DSCN0452.jpg
 
M-5":1kazv1qe said:
GP, I use my hilift almost daily , I only had to get hit once with the handle when I was a kid to figure out not to turn loose of the handle.
Yeah you have to watch that, it'll knock your teeth out.
 
M-5":3ajzg0mb said:
ga.prime":3ajzg0mb said:

GP, I use my hilift almost daily , I only had to get hit once with the handle when I was a kid to figure out not to turn loose of the handle.

That is how I repaired my barn posts. My barn was a post and pin, so the slab that I had to attach required a good 2×8 with 6 inch wood screws. I cut out the rotted section with a chainsaw, and replaced it with a treated timber and let it down on a precast concrete pad.
 
JMJ Farms":kdig6kfj said:
ga.prime":kdig6kfj said:
JMJ Farms":kdig6kfj said:
Is a bumper jack the same as a high lift jack?
Yes

You gonna get him killed Prime! They sure are strong and definitely have their place but you dang sure better know what you're doing. Make a mistake and they sure ain't very forgiving. I think I've heard them referred to as 'house jacks' as well but I may be confused.

A house jack in this part of the world is not ratchet, it uses the age old Archimedes principle of threads which are a wrapped incline.
502j3m.jpg


You can get those in 8 feet heights for basements. You just leave them in place.
 
A screw is an incline:

wlpvvc.png


Archimedes

Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world.
 

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