I believe that the lack of sucess with a no till is because the seed is planted to deep. Most pastures are not smooth enough to use a no-till and have consistant depth. Given the proper weather conditions clover has a better chance of germinating on top of the ground. It will work itself into the ground to the proper depth, which is almost nothing, with initial good ground cantact. As dun said, short grass, ground contact, and timing.dun":2iwlmtwx said:There have been 2 things that have made a difference. The shortness of the grass and the timing of the frost seeding. Frost seeding has been reliable for us except one year when we didin;t get the freezing after the seed was broadcast. Clover has to be planted really shallow, when drilling it I've had better success with just sort of spreading the grass apart enough that the seed is touching the grond and pressed in firm contact with the soil then when I actually got it under the soil. But we have what could charitably be called "heavy" soil, It's clay that drys on the surface very quickly and seedlings have a hard time coming up through it.
Other then frost seeding we've always had better success with any kind of planting by planting in the fall/winter then in the spring.
The drawback to dragging is the width of the boradcast area vs the width of a drag that is managable unless it's done in multiple passes, i.e. broadcast the whole thing then drag the whole thing. When I drag anything I use a 12' heavy gauge (1/4 inch) cattle panel and load it up with oak timbers or a set of heavy truck tires with individual chanis to a crossbar so the drag behind. Tires tend to bounce though if you hit any bunch grass or clumps.Stocker Steve":2momaffl said:I have seen chain link harrows advertised for deer plot seeding or landscaping, but not in use on a farm.
Every old timey dirt farmer here has a spike tooth harrow and spring tooth harrow which seem best suited to breaking down clods. I have tried using a spring tooth harrow after inter seeding but it plugged up or left piles of residue. The newer designs allow you to adjust tooth angle but the unit I borrowed is older than I am.
Sounds like the low dollar seeding approach would be a variable speed DC broadcasting system while dragging some chain link behind. Do you have any tips or size recommendation on making a chain link harrow for a 400 cc ATV or should I stick with the 3 point system?
dun":1ctynj0n said:When I drag anything I use a 12' heavy gauge (1/4 inch) cattle panel and load it up with oak timbers or a set of heavy truck tires with individual chains to a crossbar so the drag behind. Tires tend to bounce though if you hit any bunch grass or clumps.
If you have an old disk opener type of drill like the VanBrunts you can drill the clover then drag it at the same time.
Frost seeding isnt cost effective with a 25% survival rateStocker Steve":26vx9erf said:Have you seen different results with frost seeding vs. a no till drill?