I think my tractor is shot

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wbvs58":1sto3xsy said:
Yeh I would do as Nesi suggested just drop the oil pan which you need to do anyhow and roll in new bearings. My bet would be not much more damaged and it would be good to go, wouldn't cost much and not that hard to do for a young bloke like yourself.

Ken
I have done some like that, for myself. Sometimes it works, sometimes not. Usually depends if the camshaft bushings are damaged or not. Cam only turns 1/2 the crankshaft RPM but requires just as much oil flow volume to keep bushings and lobes lubricated.
 
True Grit Farms":3rcc3btz said:
Either rebuild it right and keep it or patch it up and sell it at the auction. Do not sell it private treaty patched up.

Does it make it any more right to sell it patched up to someone you don't know? Patching it up is why I don't like buying tractors at an auction or anything else that has an engine unless I know the owner. I don't mind buying what you have as long as I know what I'm getting. I have taken chances on things I didn't know but only if I can pay close to scrap price in case it doesn't pan out. It's when you think something is right and you pay for a good piece of equipement and turns out it isn't. Farming is tough enough without those kinds of extra losses.

V/R,
OldCrow
 
JMJ Farms":2l85w06g said:
I ain't particular Craig. I appreciate your response. I too have ran some older 135, 285, 1105s. Good tractors. Older ones lack in operator comforts but that extra $ in my pocket would be pretty comfortable too. I'm a Deere fan but they've just about gotten out of my range. Even the older 4440s and the likes are way overpriced IMO. And I'm not a hardcore farmer, just cows. But I could use a 120-125 hp tractor to go with my 90 hp 5510 loader tractor. I haven't been to a dealer but I will admit I've been eyeballing the Masseys. Never thought I'd say it. But I figure they haven't stayed in business all these years by making complete junk.

Just my :2cents: on overpriced old deere iron. I think there are a few factors that cause this
1.) The price of a new equivalent 4440 at John Deere. New row crop tractors are ridiculous. A 6145M 2wd (Pretty close to what a 4440 is) with cab no extras is 108k. 23% of a new one isn't to bad when you look at it this way as long as the tractor will do what you want it to.
2.) I truly believe the old iron is better than new and hence the other reason for it holding it's value. This is recognized, expecially in my area where new tractors aren't prevelant, due to cost and production not being as good as other locations. A person can still work on old iron as well.
3.) Quality. My Dad has a Ford 7710 and I have a 4020. The 7710 is 13 years newer but the 4020 still rides, drives, and has better hydraulics than the 7710 that is 13 years newer. There is a reason deere brings more and is one of the leaders in row crop tractors.

Of course I might be biased as I'm a John Deere fan. :D
 
BF I have bought tractors like yours before and it seemed to have a pretty bad knock and lack of power but I had the motor rebuilt by a reputable shop and saved a lot of money and still have it in use today years later. I have also bought some like yours and put motor honey as well as regular oil and used mostly lucas oil stabilizer in it and it quieted down the faint knocking sound and restored the power back. It still runs well today and is only used to pull hay trailers and some bush hogging but burns oil more than id like. It doesn't mean it will work that's just some of the stuff I have done. I suggest a rebuild or crate motor if you like the tractor.

Old crow those jd tractors of that era of 3020 4020 etc are hard to beat and imo all older stuff is better than this plastic computerized crap.
 
Bigfoot":149rcuyo said:
M-5":149rcuyo said:
how long did he run it out of oil??? +1 on the lucas

He's not even sure. It was bone dry on my arrival.

I know this is an after thought for sure but I run lucas in all my stuff because even if all oil leaks out lucas bonds to the moving parts so well that if ran for a lil bit without oil it wont do any major damage. Lucas is good stuff.
 
I'll be glad to see how extensive the damage is. I have ran Lucas, but I don't think I had it in at the time. I had a clutch put it in it a couple of months ago, and had it serviced while it was in. I know I did not tell them to put it in.
 
Craig Miller":3fjpp75z said:
OldCrow":3fjpp75z said:
Does it make it any more right to sell it patched up to someone you don't know?

:clap: :tiphat:

Yes, because I don't have to stand behind it, and you know when you buy at an auction "it's as is". And anyone who thinks any different is just fooling themselves. I sell cattle the same way, the best stuff that I can stand behind is sold private treaty for a better price, and anything questionable goes to the sale barn and is sold at what the market will bare.
 
True Grit Farms":2tgwehxz said:
Craig Miller":2tgwehxz said:
OldCrow":2tgwehxz said:
Does it make it any more right to sell it patched up to someone you don't know?

:clap: :tiphat:

Yes, because I don't have to stand behind it, and you know when you buy at an auction "it's as is". And anyone who thinks any different is just fooling themselves. I sell cattle the same way, the best stuff that I can stand behind is sold private treaty for a better price, and anything questionable goes to the sale barn and is sold at what the market will bare.

I agree "it's as is" but so is a private treaty unless otherwise stated. I think selling cows compared to equipment isn't really comparing apples to apples. You can see if a cow/calf is wild or sick, at the sale barn I take mine too they single them out.

In short I've been burnt and choose not to send it on down the line and keep passing the buck. I am not talking about a leak, light, or even something major like the pto not coming on that can be seen by the buyer and tested on site. I'm talking about something being patched up and appearing like nothing is wrong with it. This would be the case for this instance.
 
OldCrow":5cqw3z0n said:
True Grit Farms":5cqw3z0n said:
Craig Miller":5cqw3z0n said:
:clap: :tiphat:

Yes, because I don't have to stand behind it, and you know when you buy at an auction "it's as is". And anyone who thinks any different is just fooling themselves. I sell cattle the same way, the best stuff that I can stand behind is sold private treaty for a better price, and anything questionable goes to the sale barn and is sold at what the market will bare.

I agree "it's as is" but so is a private treaty unless otherwise stated. I think selling cows compared to equipment isn't really comparing apples to apples. You can see if a cow/calf is wild or sick, at the sale barn I take mine too they single them out.

In short I've been burnt and choose not to send it on down the line and keep passing the buck. I am not talking about a leak, light, or even something major like the pto not coming on that can be seen by the buyer and tested on site. I'm talking about something being patched up and appearing like nothing is wrong with it. This would be the case for this instance.

+1 :tiphat:

That reminds me of this andy Griffith episode
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JXPf7zwszlo
 
OldCrow":316jmas9 said:
True Grit Farms":316jmas9 said:
Either rebuild it right and keep it or patch it up and sell it at the auction. Do not sell it private treaty patched up.

Does it make it any more right to sell it patched up to someone you don't know? Patching it up is why I don't like buying tractors at an auction or anything else that has an engine unless I know the owner. I don't mind buying what you have as long as I know what I'm getting. I have taken chances on things I didn't know but only if I can pay close to scrap price in case it doesn't pan out. It's when you think something is right and you pay for a good piece of equipement and turns out it isn't. Farming is tough enough without those kinds of extra losses.

V/R,
OldCrow

Grandaddy always said if it had a motor or a mouth at an auction BEWARE!
 
BF IMO you'd be better off to install a crate motor. If he ran the thing completely out of oil it's likely the bottom end is wiped out and your oil pump is gone. It is possible the cam and bearings are shot too. Front gear train. Wrist pins could be seizing to the piston bodies. Rocker arms might be gone... we could go on and on. If it was mine and I was the one tearing it apart to see what damage I had then I'd do that and consider a rebuild but since you have it at a shop he's going to charge you to take it apart and look at it. Better to buy a crate engine I'd think rather than have the mechanic tear the old one apart only to find it's too far gone. Besides that I've found there's about 10,000 different definitions of "rebuilt". I've found none yet that meet my standards other than mine.
 
My question would be why did the tractor run out of oil. Where did it and why did it go. Did it have a habit of excessive oil use. Did he knock the hole in the oil pan from some object he run over. Is the engine locked up now.
 
OldCrow":3n4o45j0 said:
True Grit Farms":3n4o45j0 said:
Craig Miller":3n4o45j0 said:
:clap: :tiphat:

Yes, because I don't have to stand behind it, and you know when you buy at an auction "it's as is". And anyone who thinks any different is just fooling themselves. I sell cattle the same way, the best stuff that I can stand behind is sold private treaty for a better price, and anything questionable goes to the sale barn and is sold at what the market will bare.

I agree "it's as is" but so is a private treaty unless otherwise stated. I think selling cows compared to equipment isn't really comparing apples to apples. You can see if a cow/calf is wild or sick, at the sale barn I take mine too they single them out.

In short I've been burnt and choose not to send it on down the line and keep passing the buck. I am not talking about a leak, light, or even something major like the pto not coming on that can be seen by the buyer and tested on site. I'm talking about something being patched up and appearing like nothing is wrong with it. This would be the case for this instance.
Bought a tractor that had a spray paint over haul. Lasted about 3 months.
 
I specifically avoid stuff that's been repainted recently.

Running out of oil will usually affect the main and rod bearings first, and once they heat up the die so fast the other stuff hasn't been affected. Running out of coolant will usually ruin the top end first
 
dun":1yuhw3bv said:
Bought a tractor that had a spray paint over haul. Lasted about 3 months.

New paint is hard to look past. It works on a lot of people and like Nesi I'm leary of anything old with new paint. No doubt most anyone who has been around equipment has been on the south end of a north bound horse.
 
I had to make a trip to the state fair yesterday, and didn't get in till late. I hear my guy has the FEL, and the tins off. Not sure what he's discovered, or how far he's gotten. I'll be glad to hear something.
 

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