MosesR
Well-known member
How heavy is an all steel 1981 20' Gooseneck brand stock trailer. I just bought one and will be pulling it with a 99 F250 SD 5.4L.
How Heavy?
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circlew
Well-known member
A couple thousand probably. Best thing to do is go weigh it. Your truck will handle it with no problem.
James T
Well-known member
My guess would be around 3000 lbs but that's irrelevant. You trailer should have a certification tag on it some where that spells out the weights and the axle ratings. And even given the axle rating, if your tires are not rated properly then you still have a problem. Your truck will have no problems; it's all about how the trailer is configured. Here's a good site for figuring it out:
http://www.grit.com/Machinery/Stock-Tra ... spx?page=2
It would help if you had trailer brakes too!
http://www.grit.com/Machinery/Stock-Tra ... spx?page=2
It would help if you had trailer brakes too!
circlew
Well-known member
The certification tag wasn't required till the late 80s or earlier 90s, can't remember which. So most likely it doesn't have a tag.
OP
OP
MosesR
Well-known member
It has a tag that has been painted over. The previous owner said it has 6,000# axels so I guess the trailer is rated for 12K. As for the tires, they are 16" on 8 lug wheels and are rated a 10 ply (E). I guess weighing it will be the only way to know how much payload I can haul.
Thanks
Thanks
James T
Well-known member
Nice!! 6k axles with 8 lugs makes sense. I saw weights for 8 lugs up to 7k lbs. 10 ply tires come in handy over fields and pastures. I may be wrong but I think it's combined axle weight minus trailer weight = how much weight you can load. You could then compare that number to your truck rating. Sounds like a good trailer!
circlew
Well-known member
Your truck will also carry part of the weight as well.
Floyd
Well-known member
Had a 16' that weighed #3800 empty. So 20' maybe #4700 or so.
My 20' aluminum is #2800 empty.
My 20' aluminum is #2800 empty.
OP
OP
MosesR
Well-known member
Oh my!! 4700 pounds dont leave much room for cattle.
I just talked to Gooseneck Trailers Inc., the ole boy told me that the trailer should have 6000# axles and be reated at 9760#. I also found this number stamped on the painted over certification tag so I guess he is right. He then told me to multipy the 9760 by 25%,(% of weight the truck supports) add together and that will give me the GVWR (12200). He then said to weigh the trailer, subtract the trailer weight from the 12200 and that will give me the load capacity.
Floyd, if it weighs 4700, the only leaves me with 7500# of cattle to haul. I hope it is lighter than that.
I just talked to Gooseneck Trailers Inc., the ole boy told me that the trailer should have 6000# axles and be reated at 9760#. I also found this number stamped on the painted over certification tag so I guess he is right. He then told me to multipy the 9760 by 25%,(% of weight the truck supports) add together and that will give me the GVWR (12200). He then said to weigh the trailer, subtract the trailer weight from the 12200 and that will give me the load capacity.
Floyd, if it weighs 4700, the only leaves me with 7500# of cattle to haul. I hope it is lighter than that.
A
Anonymous
Id bet that trailer is 4900#.
Floyd
Well-known member
That is why I bought aluminum.
circlew
Well-known member
Most of the time the weight of the axle say 6k is all the manufacture will warranty to. It will carry more weight.
kenny thomas
Well-known member
Floyd":3ar4erx7 said:
What brand do you have that is that light?
I have an 18ft Wilson aluminum and it weighs 6030.
Floyd
Well-known member
Charmac
baleflipper
Well-known member
How Much weight a trailer will carry is determined by the size of the axles,6000lb or 7500lb,and where the axles are located. A trailer meant to be pulled by a one ton dualy will have the wheels a little farther to the rear to put more load on truck. The most common set up is two thirds of the load on trailer axles for one tons. The way to tell is measure from rear of trailer to center of axles.Makes no difference if 2 or 3 axles measure to center of middle axle on 3 axle and to center of equalizer on 2 axle. Measure The distance from rear of trailer to center of axles . Make a mark this dimension from center of axles to front.This is what is on the axles plus Half the distance from that front mark to front of trailer is added to trailer axles ,the rest is on truck axle. Its like a see saw or a pump jack.
I see folks with the wrong combinations all the time. Look at a semi,The trailer has two axles at rear and the truck tractor has two under the front.That way half the load is on truck axles and half on trailer axles.
Another thing I often see is a truck too high under front of trailer,this uses up the equalizer and loads the rear axle more. That is the reason for adjustable upright pipe hitches. Take the time to level the trailer it will pull better and tires and bearings as well as brakes will last longer.
The first Gooseneck Trailer I saw was in 1961 ,It was Built by "Gooseneck Trailers in Bryan Texas" Dont konw if they invented them but the name seems to be universal. Before that Folks hauled cattle on bobtail trucks or small bumper pull trailers. Bigger operators used semis. All cattle pens had a loading chute. Now adays we are lucky to find a set of pens on a place!
I have built trailers since 1967 off and on. you all have seen my hay trailers at my web site. I am still pulling a cattle trailer I built over twenty years ago. Another thing all 2 5/16" hitches are not the same read the rating on it. Dont exceed gross load rating of the hitch,might lose trailer.
I see folks with the wrong combinations all the time. Look at a semi,The trailer has two axles at rear and the truck tractor has two under the front.That way half the load is on truck axles and half on trailer axles.
Another thing I often see is a truck too high under front of trailer,this uses up the equalizer and loads the rear axle more. That is the reason for adjustable upright pipe hitches. Take the time to level the trailer it will pull better and tires and bearings as well as brakes will last longer.
The first Gooseneck Trailer I saw was in 1961 ,It was Built by "Gooseneck Trailers in Bryan Texas" Dont konw if they invented them but the name seems to be universal. Before that Folks hauled cattle on bobtail trucks or small bumper pull trailers. Bigger operators used semis. All cattle pens had a loading chute. Now adays we are lucky to find a set of pens on a place!
I have built trailers since 1967 off and on. you all have seen my hay trailers at my web site. I am still pulling a cattle trailer I built over twenty years ago. Another thing all 2 5/16" hitches are not the same read the rating on it. Dont exceed gross load rating of the hitch,might lose trailer.
Angus Cowman
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biggest mistake I see with people and gooseneck trailers in the front of the trailer being to low and putting too much weight on the truck
rull of the I always used was I want the front of the trailer level to 2"s higher in the front than the rear when loaded
rull of the I always used was I want the front of the trailer level to 2"s higher in the front than the rear when loaded
gimpyrancher
Well-known member
Maybe this will help?
This information applies to the TRUCK rating. Local laws (state, province, country, etc.) may be different, so verify with your local laws.
A "weight distributing hitch" ONLY applies to the rear, frame mounted "bumper" hitch receiver (the hitch below the tailgate). ONLY. The ratings for this, and 'in bed" type hitches are entirely different. They do not cross paths, with regard to the hitch methods/locations, themselves. The rating for the "bumper" hitch is dependent on the hitch hardware itself, and the 12K rating is according to the OEM installed hitch, alone. You can upgrade or downgrade this hardware. However, all other weight ratings still apply. For example, you could replace the OEM hitch with a 14K hitch, and be legal IF other weight ratings are not exceeded.
The same applies to gooseneck and 5th wheel ratings. Your "in bed" hitch ratings are dependent on the hardware rating. For example, if you have a 16K rated gooseneck or 5th wheel hitch installed, the maximum trailer weight will be 16K. Still, all other weight ratings must not be exceeded. If your trailer weighs 16K, and you do not exceed: the truck's GVWR (the total weight rating of the tow vehicle alone), the GAWR's (the rating of each axle), and the GCWR (the rating of the total weight of the tow vehicle and trailer(s) being towed), then it is legal.
GVWR = Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. The maximum weight the vehicle (tow vehicle alone) may weigh. The weight of both axles, combined.
GAWR = Gross Axle Weight Rating. The maximum weight that may be placed on each individual axle. Each axle is rated individually.
GCWR = Gross Combination Weight Rating. The maximum weight of the tow vehicle and trailer(s), combined.
The maximum trailer weight, according to the manufacturer's documentation IS NOT a declaration. It is ONLY a recommendation, according to a specific vehicle's other ratings, and is typically represented by the ratings of a base model, which is almost always different than an actual vehicle you may be using. They do this for marketing and baseline statements. Any original or aftermarket equipment added (including the hitch, fuel, passengers, dust, etc.) are not included in this claim. The ONLY way to determine your actual weight ability is to scale it. Anything short of getting the rig on the scale is only a guess. :compute:
This information applies to the TRUCK rating. Local laws (state, province, country, etc.) may be different, so verify with your local laws.
A "weight distributing hitch" ONLY applies to the rear, frame mounted "bumper" hitch receiver (the hitch below the tailgate). ONLY. The ratings for this, and 'in bed" type hitches are entirely different. They do not cross paths, with regard to the hitch methods/locations, themselves. The rating for the "bumper" hitch is dependent on the hitch hardware itself, and the 12K rating is according to the OEM installed hitch, alone. You can upgrade or downgrade this hardware. However, all other weight ratings still apply. For example, you could replace the OEM hitch with a 14K hitch, and be legal IF other weight ratings are not exceeded.
The same applies to gooseneck and 5th wheel ratings. Your "in bed" hitch ratings are dependent on the hardware rating. For example, if you have a 16K rated gooseneck or 5th wheel hitch installed, the maximum trailer weight will be 16K. Still, all other weight ratings must not be exceeded. If your trailer weighs 16K, and you do not exceed: the truck's GVWR (the total weight rating of the tow vehicle alone), the GAWR's (the rating of each axle), and the GCWR (the rating of the total weight of the tow vehicle and trailer(s) being towed), then it is legal.
GVWR = Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. The maximum weight the vehicle (tow vehicle alone) may weigh. The weight of both axles, combined.
GAWR = Gross Axle Weight Rating. The maximum weight that may be placed on each individual axle. Each axle is rated individually.
GCWR = Gross Combination Weight Rating. The maximum weight of the tow vehicle and trailer(s), combined.
The maximum trailer weight, according to the manufacturer's documentation IS NOT a declaration. It is ONLY a recommendation, according to a specific vehicle's other ratings, and is typically represented by the ratings of a base model, which is almost always different than an actual vehicle you may be using. They do this for marketing and baseline statements. Any original or aftermarket equipment added (including the hitch, fuel, passengers, dust, etc.) are not included in this claim. The ONLY way to determine your actual weight ability is to scale it. Anything short of getting the rig on the scale is only a guess. :compute:
CASEIH1994
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we pull ours with our 2002 7.3 with no problem but our 6.0 holds up to it a little better. 5.4 i have no idea i've never owned a trition
B&M Farms
Well-known member
I don't know what my GCWR is but I've pulled all the cows I could stuff in my 20 foot gooseneck with a 3/4 ton dodge pretty regular with no problems. Just keep good tires on it. Im sure that was over my GCWR.
