grasshopper liquid fertilizer

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Jogeephus":1nadd6y9 said:
John, since you mentioned the spray tips and all, we had a fella come through here a few years ago selling a product that made water wetter. You just added it to your tank and you could cut back on your rate. He actually sold a few jugs of it.

I've used foliar for various reasons. Never used it as the backbone of my fertility program on grass. I just sit back and watch other try it. With the exception of one, none that I know of have continued to use it. I think it does have its uses.

Surfactant! Soap. Now I like to use that. It is cheap and it works! That low rate Roundup thing, I should have said I have had good burndown with 20 oz or even 16 oz of Roundup per acre at 8/9 gal of water per acre. You add surfactant to that mix, even above the surfactant already a part of Roundup. Half a percent of volume, if I recall.
 
I agree Jo that it can't be used as the sole fertilizer for your grass or crops

The places I have seen it is useful is on hay crops that get fertilized either with granular or turkey litter and then after the first cutting of hay I use the liguid to help boost production and get added growth for a 2nd crop using it in a top dressing aplication

Talked to my renter and his explanation is that if used in a top dress application as I have done you can take the foliar mix and get better growth results with a smaller amount of it than a larger amount of granular because the plant gets the benefit thru the leaf and the roots doesn't have to pull the fert from the ground and therefore the plant processes the fert faster and more efficiently

BUT it does not help the plant after it has been harvested as it also leaves NO residual for the plant to promote new growth that has to come from the soil
 
john250":2ek69jix said:
Surfactant! Soap. Now I like to use that. It is cheap and it works! That low rate Roundup thing, I should have said I have had good burndown with 20 oz or even 16 oz of Roundup per acre at 8/9 gal of water per acre. You add surfactant to that mix, even above the surfactant already a part of Roundup. Half a percent of volume, if I recall.

Surfactant is not what the guy was selling. This was to be used in conjunction with surfactant. It would make your water wetter. Or so he said.

Angus Cowman":2ek69jix said:
I agree Jo that it can't be used as the sole fertilizer for your grass or crops

Just my opinion but I think foliar feeding is sometimes sold as something it is not. I think salesmen sometimes will make promises about its usefullness which are chemically impossible. My neighbor sells a liquid product and I honestly hate to see him coming cause he always has a sales pitch for his product. While I know it will work to a certain degree, I know it will not do the things he promises it will do or people would no longer be dieing of AIDS or starvation.

I'm sure I've posted this before, but if you want some of the prettiest hay you've ever grown - fertilize it like normal then spray it with 1 pint of liquid iron when the grass is about 2 weeks away from cutting. The liquid iron will enhance photosynthesis and it will be a beautiful dark green and cure as pretty as you please. I don't know if it will add to the quality of the hay or not but it would stand to reason that it would since increased photosynthesis should equate to more sugar production etc.
 
I'm sort of out of touch with types of fertilizers because we haven't applied any for the last 10 years.
Cattle Farmer = free fertilizer :banana: But I have to agree with Joe on 2 things, you need to have a good fertilizing routine or your land will show the effects and also these sales guy are bragging it up too much. I heard lots about this foliar fertilizer around here, its promoted as the next best thing to bread and butter. The guys who sell it say that it is cheaper than normal fertilizer and does a better job improving yeilds than normal granual fertilizer. WRONG
It might make the plant look more luss but its not adding very much to the soil for next years crop, so I think if I ever do apply fertilizer again, I'll stick with granual.

We also had a guy trying to sell the same type of product by us, Joe. He was pretty determine to sell it to us. He demostrated how it works in the water to make it wetter. I just about blew a gut from laughing so hard!! :lol: :lol:
 
Dave":2zxaqb2z said:
How can the 15 pounds added to 20 gal of water make the equivalent of 100 pounds 30-10-10? The 30-10-10 has 50 pounds of total nutrient that is over three times as much weight as the original 15 pounds. You can concentrate things or dilute things. Make a 10-10-10 into a 20-20-20 or the other way around. But you can't get 50 pounds of something out of 15 pounds.
A ton of grass that tests at 12.5% protein has 40 pounds of N in it. That 4.5 pounds of N isn't going to go very far towards growing grass. It is going to take an awful lot of this stuff to grow 3 ton of grass per acre.
My reaction is the same as yours. As far as the lawn care guy he will come several times to add his ''majic'' to your grass :lol: If it is as good as they claim the root mass on the plants should decrease a bunch! With the price of equip. I would hope it does not take a lot of special stuff to apply. Has anyone found the price per acre or do they want it to be a big surprise?
 
1982vett":3pzyx17x said:
I need something to wetten up 3/10ths to 3 inches. :)

If I can dig the fellas name up I'll send it to you. If his water wetter upper doesn't do the job I'm sure he has something that will. :lol2:

Did a little reading on this particular fertilizer. As with brand chemicals you can tell a lot about the product by reading the label. Here is a list of the active ingredients. Potassium Nitrate(KNO3), Urea((NH2)2CO), Ammonium Phosphate((NH4)3PO4), Iron EDDHA, Iron EDTA, Manganese EDTA, Copper EDTA, Zinc EDTA, Boric Acid, Sodium Molybdate. F1367. I haven't a clue what some of these are but I do see where the N is coming from and if you notice iron is a component as well. Also, I don't know if this is true for fertilizers or not but in food labelling I think the order that it is listed is prioritized by the percentage of ingredient. The EDTA stands for chelate. Chelation is derived from the greek word claw. Essentially it binds something. Some chelation agents can grab a molecule and free up another thus releasing nutrients that would otherwise be tied up for some time. What concerns me about the use of some of these liquids is that the chelation effect can and will prematurely release nutrients from your soil. In a sense, they will mine your nutrient stockpile. So what I am told, some will mine your soil nutrients without putting anything back. If your soil has a huge layer of organic matter this may not be a problem for you for some time but eventually I think you will eventually have to pay back the soil bank.

Personally, I wish there was a silver bullet that worked on all things but I think balance is the key. I think products like this are good but they are not the sole answer to our rizing fertilizer costs. JMO
 
Ga prime
"boomless spray nozzle spraying a thirty foot swath"


Sounds like a good nozzle. What kind of spray nozzle are you using?

John 250
"The "foliar fertilizer" thing is BOGUS."


There is a good debate to be had over the best uses of a foliar product. However, the benefits of foliar fertilizer are 'Settled Science'. Some of the well respected, peer reviewed studies of foliar fertilizer are as old as 1950.

Here are some examples that can easily be found on the web:
Dr. H. B. Tukey - renowned plant researcher and Head of Michigan State University's Department of Horticulture
The value of foliar feeding was proven many years ago at Michigan State College by Dr. H. B. Tukey….. Plants can absorb nutrients 8 to 10 times more efficiently through their leaf surfaces than through their roots. When applying nutrients to the leaf, the nutrients move through the stomata downward through the plant--at the rate of about a foot an hour. When applying nutrients to the leaves in soluble forms, as much as 95 percent of what is applied may be used by the plant. If a similar amount is applied to the soil about 10 percent of it is available.

Charlie O'Dell-Virginia Tech
A small amount of plant nutrients, foliar-applied, can replace a much greater amount that is soil applied, and is immediately available,…Products for foliar application provide the fastest response.

Wesley Totten and Bert McCarty-Clemson University
Most research indicates that with urea, for instance, liquid and dry (granular) formulations produce little differences in turf growth and quality. However, previous research with urea noted foliar feeding accounted for 95 percent of plant use compared to approximately 10 percent use from soil applications.

These were just a few examples.

In some areas of farming, foliar has been the primary form of fertilization for decades. Foliar was not as popular decades ago because it was often unavailable and more expensive. There are only a few plants in the US that can produce a quality foliar product. I think foliar fertilizer has gained recent popularity as the price of commercial granular goes up. I know this is the case for us – on our ranch. We started supplementing with foliar about 5 years ago and are now starting to use foliar as a complete replacement in some cases. We run 350+ mama cows and roll 3,000-5,000 round bales per year. However, there are still some cases where we need commercial fertilizer or chicken litter.

Jogeephus
"spray it with 1 pint of liquid iron"


I agree. Foliar iron and also foliar potash do a very good job at improving color. This also makes sense regarding the foliar discussion. 1 pint of foliar iron will probably produce better results than 50-100lbs of dry. Once again – it's hard to make a pound for pound comparison as some have tried.

Jogeephus
"product that made water wetter".


I've seen some of these products and they do work well – breaking down the surface pressure of the water allowing better saturation for the herbicide.

Jogeephus
"What concerns me about the use of some of these liquids is that the chelation effect can and will prematurely release nutrients from your soil. In a sense, they will mine your nutrient stockpile."


Boron is the ingredient in this list that can and does release or untie some of these locked up nutrients. You're right; this can mine your nutrient stockpile. But the product would have to contain 3-5X more boron than .02%. Many organic products use large amounts of Boron combined with bacteria to trick the soil into releasing an unhealthy amount of nutrients. In fact, any results from some of the 'new age' organic products on the market are a direct result of this process.

Dave
"A ton of grass that tests at 12.5% protein has 40 pounds of N in it. That 4.5 pounds of N isn't going to go very far towards growing grass. It is going to take an awful lot of this stuff to grow 3 ton of grass per acre."


I think you may unintentionally be making the case for the foliar argument. If a ton of grass at 12.5% protein has 40 pounds of N, then 4.5 additional pounds of N (from foliar) directly into the leaf is huge – approximately 11.25% more. It would bump it to 14% with very little cost.

You don't get the full 40 lbs of N from you fertilizer. With your formula, the grass may have started at 11% and was then bumped to 12.5% with a certain amount of commercial fertilizer. The grass didn't start at 0% protein and was then bumped to 12.5% by using 200lbs of granular. If your grass receives most of your granular application (which it does not) then applying 300 lbs of a 30-10-10 granular (with the 12.5% - 40 lbs of N formula) would bump a 12% protein to 39% or 40% protein. Just not possible.


The biggest issue with foliar fertilizers is quality. If the product does not have the ability to absorb thru the leaf – then the value is very minimal. Urea, Potassium Nitrate, Calcium Nitrate, etc all have different solubility and absorption capabilities. In fact, the grade, molecular structure, purity, and combination with other chemicals all have a very big influence on a fertilizer's ability to absorb. As a result, there are many ineffective foliar fertilizers on the market. Some companies throw a product together, add a certain amount of NPK, mix it in water and then call it foliar. The customers of these products may be very unsatisfied.

Other products have the correct formulation and provide superior results. To try to criticize these products without proper knowledge can be very difficult. It would be similar to someone coming on the Cattle Today board and asking about a 14% feed. Without knowing the source of protein, the byproducts, the TDN, the palatability, etc, it would be very hard to judge this product. There are many 14% feeds, but they are not the same.
 
redstatefarmer":18j534k5 said:
Ga prime
"boomless spray nozzle spraying a thirty foot swath"


Sounds like a good nozzle. What kind of spray nozzle are you using?
W.L. Hamilton- http://www.wlhamiltonco.com/Nozzles.htm
Also good for small acreages or places hard to get to with a farm tactor is one of the FIMCO spayers with boomless spray bar mounted on the back of a four wheeler. It'll have two nozzles on the end of the bar and one in the middle. Turn the two end nozzles off and use only the middle one. It'll put out 20 gallons of mix on two acres easing along in first gear with a 12 foot swath.
 
redstatefarmer":k2xixu9z said:
You don't get the full 40 lbs of N from you fertilizer. With your formula, the grass may have started at 11% and was then bumped to 12.5% with a certain amount of commercial fertilizer. The grass didn't start at 0% protein and was then bumped to 12.5% by using 200lbs of granular. If your grass receives most of your granular application (which it does not) then applying 300 lbs of a 30-10-10 granular (with the 12.5% - 40 lbs of N formula) would bump a 12% protein to 39% or 40% protein. Just not possible.

You make a good point here. We grow a lot of vegetables around here and foliar feeding is used in conjunction with conventional fertilization. Its normally used a bumper to set color and make the vegies more appealing just prior to sale. With foliar feeds, what is the typical jump period you can expect before it loses its luster. With iron and some other foliars I've experimented with it seems two maybe three weeks is tops. Is this about what you have observed?
 
Jogeephus":229morna said:
redstatefarmer":229morna said:
You don't get the full 40 lbs of N from you fertilizer. With your formula, the grass may have started at 11% and was then bumped to 12.5% with a certain amount of commercial fertilizer. The grass didn't start at 0% protein and was then bumped to 12.5% by using 200lbs of granular. If your grass receives most of your granular application (which it does not) then applying 300 lbs of a 30-10-10 granular (with the 12.5% - 40 lbs of N formula) would bump a 12% protein to 39% or 40% protein. Just not possible.

You make a good point here. We grow a lot of vegetables around here and foliar feeding is used in conjunction with conventional fertilization. Its normally used a bumper to set color and make the vegies more appealing just prior to sale. With foliar feeds, what is the typical jump period you can expect before it loses its luster. With iron and some other foliars I've experimented with it seems two maybe three weeks is tops. Is this about what you have observed?
Jo what I have seen is if I cut my hay and wait a week to 2 weeks then hit it with the foliar I can usually get a 2nd cutting about 4 weeks later and that is grass hay I know on veg it would be different

My experiments with it was I sprayed 2 fields with the foliar after the first cutting and left 3 fields alone they were all fertilized in the fall with turkey litter and they were all bottoms fields the 2 that I sprayed foilar on I got a 2 nd cutting on 6 1/2 weeks after the first cutting the ones I didn't spray I cut them and the yield was less than the ones I sprayed
unsprayed 2.3 bales per acre and the sprayed fields I got 3.7 bales per acre and the cost of spraying was a lil under $18 pr acre
 
I'm a custom applicator and we spray 10 - 50g/a all the time at speeds rangeing 10-17mph with no problems. It's all in selecting the right spray tip for the gallons and pressure desired. As for the foliar feed versus soil feed there is something to be said for both. If your soil fertility is not up to the proper levels all foliar feeding will be pretty much cosmedic.
 
Angus Guy":1g5q32on said:
If your soil fertility is not up to the proper levels all foliar feeding will be pretty much cosmedic.

This is what I was wondering about as we have highly weathered soils. Some say we have thirsty sand in need of nurishment. :oops: Been trying to build the soil profile up but this takes time. So in my situation I have concerns. However, I have done some strip experiments with different foliar applications. From what I've seen, there is a color difference for about two weeks. I don't know this to be true but I suspect that when the grass is greener it is more nutritious. I kick myself for not having a forage analysis done on some hay I grew using the iron application. It cured out a beautiful color and based on the patties - it had a high TDN.
 
redstatefarmer":3gstwi4z said:
John 250
"The "foliar fertilizer" thing is BOGUS."


There is a good debate to be had over the best uses of a foliar product. However, the benefits of foliar fertilizer are 'Settled Science'. Some of the well respected, peer reviewed studies of foliar fertilizer are as old as 1950.

I should have said something like "The sales pitches I have received for foliar fertilizer are BOGUS".
Yes, foliar works, produces a response in plants. But it won't replace a program of dry fertilizer, and that is always the sales pitch I get. The salesman says a gallon or two of his product is all the fertilizer I need.
 
john250":dsvrv80t said:
redstatefarmer":dsvrv80t said:
John 250
"The "foliar fertilizer" thing is BOGUS."


There is a good debate to be had over the best uses of a foliar product. However, the benefits of foliar fertilizer are 'Settled Science'. Some of the well respected, peer reviewed studies of foliar fertilizer are as old as 1950.

I should have said something like "The sales pitches I have received for foliar fertilizer are BOGUS".
Yes, foliar works, produces a response in plants. But it won't replace a program of dry fertilizer, and that is always the sales pitch I get. The salesman says a gallon or two of his product is all the fertilizer I need.

I knew what you meant. If you talk to my neighbor, his product will cure cancer, make an ugly person pretty, solve the world's energy crisis and doesn't work under the understood laws of chemistry. And, will only cost you $6.00/acre.
 
Jogeephus":1gt7jcp0 said:
If you talk to my neighbor, his product will cure cancer, make an ugly person pretty, solve the world's energy crisis and doesn't work under the understood laws of chemistry. And, will only cost you $6.00/acre.
Sounds like he's a congressman. :lol: :lol:
 
Jogeephus":3pw6p9wm said:
If you talk to my neighbor, make an ugly person pretty,

I know a couple of folks on these boards that should bathe in the stuff then
 
Jogeephus":3uw6oze0 said:
john250":3uw6oze0 said:
redstatefarmer":3uw6oze0 said:
John 250
"The "foliar fertilizer" thing is BOGUS."


There is a good debate to be had over the best uses of a foliar product. However, the benefits of foliar fertilizer are 'Settled Science'. Some of the well respected, peer reviewed studies of foliar fertilizer are as old as 1950.

I should have said something like "The sales pitches I have received for foliar fertilizer are BOGUS".
Yes, foliar works, produces a response in plants. But it won't replace a program of dry fertilizer, and that is always the sales pitch I get. The salesman says a gallon or two of his product is all the fertilizer I need.

I knew what you meant. If you talk to my neighbor, his product will cure cancer, make an ugly person pretty, solve the world's energy crisis and doesn't work under the understood laws of chemistry. And, will only cost you $6.00/acre.

Its marketed the same way by us, except it take one step further. They guarantee that the yeilds off the field that is sprayed will get 3 if not 5 times the amount with only one small dose. I told the guy, maybe in in his world but not here on planet earth!
 
cowperson":1gk3pamw said:
Has anyone used the grasshopper liquid fertilizer. If so how did it do and was it more expensive than regular fertilizer? Thanks

What???????? Grasshopper liquid fertilizer???? Doesn't it all come down to composition? Do a soil test, see what you need , forget about grasshoppers, locusts, centipeeds, mother worts etc and just call your supplier and have them mix up what is needed by soil test. Apply it, drink a beer or two or three and then watch the grass grow. Grasshoppers? I have some tank scum for sale -anyone want to buy it?
 
dun":3qm80vrp said:
Jogeephus":3qm80vrp said:
If you talk to my neighbor, make an ugly person pretty,

I know a couple of folks on these boards that should bathe in the stuff then
Dun my wife says if I was any prettier that nobody could stand it cause I would have all the wimmins
and that you guys are just jealous
 

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