Got drilled by the dealer (again)

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Bigfoot

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Took the hay roller in for the spring service couple months ago. Bill $680......parts $8 (started a thread about that)

Broke all my hay equipment out last week, and greased, hooked on, and watched it spin.


Hay roller will only send the tie arm in one direction. I full around with it, and my test light for a few minutes. I can't figure out the problem, so I decide to throw parts at it. The cheapest one first, that would be the switch in the box. Take it to the industrial electronic store, so I know I'll get the right switch. They tell me they don't carry it, but can get it. Offer to wire it. So I'm like yeah.

Get it home, and it won't move the arm either way. I decide better run it to the dealer. Hay will need cut soon.

Pick it up this morning:
Comments.....Switch box wired incorrectly
Service supplies.......$23.52
Labor.......$249.62

I need to learn my lesson with them soon.

When I questioned the bill, they said Mr._________ knocked $73.50 in labor off already.

Well thanks Mr._________ for the kind treatment.
 
I have tractors I know the clutch are getting close gone. I hate to see the repair bills.
 
I know what you mean....putting hay in the barn last week a hydraulic line to the steering blew. Of course it's one that is probably installed before the cab is set on. Studied long and hard before I started. Prayed that if I was able to get it out that I'd also be able to get one back in. Luckily I was able to get a wrench on and it broke loose easy enough. 16 wrench placements for one turn for starters.... another plus I had enough smarts to tie a wire to it before pulling it out. It did stick about 2/3rds of the way out. Worked it back and forth and enough dirt and fell out that with the help of a flashlight I could see where it was hanging up. A long skinny rod helped guide it through the turn and the rest of the way out. Had the $98 John Deere hose made at a local parts store for $53. Took a couple hours to reverse the process as the fitting would hang up going back in. Tried from the top and the bottom numerous times and all of a sudden it slipped right on through. Now to get the top fitting started. Had to pull up slightly on the hose and slight pressure to bend the hose to get a straight shot at the threads...in a place I really couldn't get my hands in. Using a bunch of wedges to align and a skinny pry bar to apply the upward pressure I finally was able to get the threads to catch...16 wrench placements for one turn. Spent $200 for parts and oil. No telling what it would have cost for John Deere to pick it up and fix it. Look like their could have been a better solution when designing hydraulic filter placement and hook up too.
 
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7000106

Not sure what kind of baler you have, but Vermeer uses a standard DPDT momentary switch (Dual Pole Dual Terminal spring to center). Five to ten bucks depending on where you buy them. I bet I've made a dozen or more twine control boxes for friends and family, dealer wanted $200 for them 20 years ago.
 
cfpinz said:
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7000106

Not sure what kind of baler you have, but Vermeer uses a standard DPDT momentary switch (Dual Pole Dual Terminal spring to center). Five to ten bucks depending on where you buy them. I bet I've made a dozen or more twine control boxes for friends and family, dealer wanted $200 for them 20 years ago.

That's the sad part. A little research here told me the switch, and the electronic store got the correct switch. They happened to cross 2 wires when hooking it up. All the dealership did was switch the 2 wires. Somehow used $23 in shop supplies, that I don't see anywhere, and ran up a $240 labor bill in the process. If it was hard to track down the problem, I can understand, but my goodness. 2 hours
 
A multi meter is better than a test light as you can check continuity across the poles of a switch. I installed a new Briggs engine on my zero turn this week. The old engine did run but was wore out. The new engine installed and nothing when trying to crank. Checked the continuity of the fuse showed to be good. No power to the main switch. I checked the fuse holder for continuity and with the fuse in place no continuity. Splice in a new holder with same fuse and viola powered up and away we sill go after I convert to a two cable control for the throttle and choke. I hate the one wire combination.
 
Bigfoot said:
cfpinz said:
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7000106

Not sure what kind of baler you have, but Vermeer uses a standard DPDT momentary switch (Dual Pole Dual Terminal spring to center). Five to ten bucks depending on where you buy them. I bet I've made a dozen or more twine control boxes for friends and family, dealer wanted $200 for them 20 years ago.

That's the sad part. A little research here told me the switch, and the electronic store got the correct switch. They happened to cross 2 wires when hooking it up. All the dealership did was switch the 2 wires. Somehow used $23 in shop supplies, that I don't see anywhere, and ran up a $240 labor bill in the process. If it was hard to track down the problem, I can understand, but my goodness. 2 hours

Just curious did you tell them someone else had been working on the wiring? Sometimes following someone else's botched work can get you going down the wrong path in a diagnosis. Especially if you're unaware of it.
 
You take equipment into the dealer hoping they are the experts and can methodically track down the problem and fix it. I fear that many times they are just as clueless as the customer and poke around trying to figure out what's wrong, and the billable hours rack up.
 
I had several small things repaired on a tractor a couple months ago as it was fixing to go out of warranty. Jd sent a tech out, he had to make two trips no charge except for filters I had him deliver to keep us in stock.

Three weeks ago a skidsteer lost fel control. My son couldn't find anything, he keeps the manual in the machine, code said contact dealer. They had a tech at the job site within two hours. A small stick had went through a drain hole in the bottom plate and perfectly unplugged one of those connecters that are impossible to unplug if you want to. NO CHARGE...I guess jd insurance picked it up.

They came out and picked up dad's gator no long ago. He said the tranny was making racket. They couldn't find a problem ( neither could I) put they came out picked it up and brought it back n/c

This is United ag and turf in Temple Texas. There is some other branches in the area that are pretty bad. .......they'll probably drill me next week now..lol

On the other hand I recently had one of retainer bolts on my case skidsteer break. I decided to replace. both sides along with all the little springs and clips and whatnots. Parts just under 600.00 seemed pretty ridiculous. Plus it took the slob behind the counter forever to look up and pull the parts . Might could a done it faster if he put his sandwich down

Used another case dealer the next time I needed something. They had to order it and had it delivered to my gate in two days. Never drove to town.
 
callmefence said:
Bigfoot said:
cfpinz said:
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7000106

Not sure what kind of baler you have, but Vermeer uses a standard DPDT momentary switch (Dual Pole Dual Terminal spring to center). Five to ten bucks depending on where you buy them. I bet I've made a dozen or more twine control boxes for friends and family, dealer wanted $200 for them 20 years ago.

That's the sad part. A little research here told me the switch, and the electronic store got the correct switch. They happened to cross 2 wires when hooking it up. All the dealership did was switch the 2 wires. Somehow used $23 in shop supplies, that I don't see anywhere, and ran up a $240 labor bill in the process. If it was hard to track down the problem, I can understand, but my goodness. 2 hours

Just curious did you tell them someone else had been working on the wiring? Sometimes following someone else's botched work can get you going down the wrong path in a diagnosis. Especially if you're unaware of it.

Yes, I did. Hind sight, I'd have probably screwed it up myself, but I wish I had just put it in.
 
Bigfoot said:
callmefence said:
Bigfoot said:
That's the sad part. A little research here told me the switch, and the electronic store got the correct switch. They happened to cross 2 wires when hooking it up. All the dealership did was switch the 2 wires. Somehow used $23 in shop supplies, that I don't see anywhere, and ran up a $240 labor bill in the process. If it was hard to track down the problem, I can understand, but my goodness. 2 hours

Just curious did you tell them someone else had been working on the wiring? Sometimes following someone else's botched work can get you going down the wrong path in a diagnosis. Especially if you're unaware of it.

Yes, I did. Hind sight, I'd have probably screwed it up myself, but I wish I had just put it in.

Shoulda been the first place they looked then.
I look for a different dealer
 
I recently had an attempted drilling by the dealer. Well, not the dealers fault really, I blame NH.
Broke an upright loader mount on the T5.115 tractor. Second time actually, first time I had it repaired but this time not repairable in my opinion. It turns out this part is not soled separately. So I would need to order the pair for about $4,000. Of course NH doesn't actually make their own loaders, they are made by Alo. I managed to email a guy at Alo and tell him my sad story. He emailed back that these parts are not sold separately, and anyway they only sell to dealers and manufacturers. I told him I knew that and that's why I was emailing him was to voice my displeasure with the NSS policy and that would be the reason I would never own another Alo loader. So in response he told me he would sell me the complete assembly for $0 if I paid the shipping, and to have my dealer contact him to arrange it. It will take awhile to get it because the are building it now, but I suppose the lesson is that sometimes the squeaky wheel does get the grease. It still seems strange to me that even though Alo is building the mounts at their own cost they still seem to feel the need to make both sides.
This is where it broke:
9bVTRKC.jpg
 
Silver said:
I recently had an attempted drilling by the dealer. Well, not the dealers fault really, I blame NH.
Broke an upright loader mount on the T5.115 tractor. Second time actually, first time I had it repaired but this time not repairable in my opinion. It turns out this part is not soled separately. So I would need to order the pair for about $4,000. Of course NH doesn't actually make their own loaders, they are made by Alo. I managed to email a guy at Alo and tell him my sad story. He emailed back that these parts are not sold separately, and anyway they only sell to dealers and manufacturers. I told him I knew that and that's why I was emailing him was to voice my displeasure with the NSS policy and that would be the reason I would never own another Alo loader. So in response he told me he would sell me the complete assembly for $0 if I paid the shipping, and to have my dealer contact him to arrange it. It will take awhile to get it because the are building it now, but I suppose the lesson is that sometimes the squeaky wheel does get the grease. It still seems strange to me that even though Alo is building the mounts at their own cost they still seem to feel the need to make both sides.
This is where it broke:
9bVTRKC.jpg

I wonder if the manufacturing process involves truing the pair dimensionally after final assembly. One would think Alo would have a jig for each weldment and all left and right parts would be identical to their siblings, but they only sell them in pairs for a reason.
 

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