BC
Well-known member
At what rate was he using the glyphosate? It takes 5 qts/acre to kill established bermuda. A pt/acre will ding it but clean up crabgrass in a hay field.
Glyphosate or not?
- Thread starter okj5ranchgirl
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Ebenezer
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Do you spray the hayfields early or late winter? I was wanting to try spraying some summer pastures after some hard frosts on a warm day and get them clean for the next year. If I spray late fall I leave open areas for other weeds where I kill junk. I could seed back a winter annual or some legumes. If I spray late winter I end the chance for legumes in the early summer. I'd appreciate your advice and to know what rate you use. Thanks.
bird dog
Well-known member
To add on to Eb's question, is all Bermuda the same. Is the mix rate different on common or coastal or Tifton? I am wanting to do a Tifton field and not sure what month to spray it.
BC
Well-known member
What are you trying to control? If it is ryegrass in your bermuda, then late January or first week of February. Use a pint to a quart per acre. Add 17 lbs of water soluable ammonium sulfate per 100 gallons of water. This really makes a difference.
bird dog
Well-known member
Grassy weeds mostly. Witchgrass, 3 awn needle grass, foxtail and others. Thats in the Tifton
I have the same problem in another pasture that is a mixture of common bermuda, Klein and various bluestems.
The 3 awn is giving me the most problems. It was well established when I bought the place. They are not hayfields, just grazing pastures.
BC
Well-known member
Bird Dog, you do have a problem. 3 awn is worthless. Is this in a hay field? If so, try a pint/acre soon after first cutting. It will ding it some but if you get rain and with good fertility should bounce back. What is your fertility level on that field , especially phosphorus. Oklahoma and Kansas both recommend a November prescribed burn for 3 awn. I am hesitant to do that with Tifton as we have seen it die back to the mother plant in cold weather. As to your pastures with Klein, native grasses I would NOT use Roundup. Being that you are in Navarro County, I am pretty sure your place was in cotton and soil fertility was depleted before it became pasture land. Try feeding hay on the worst places and see if the animal manure can recycle some phosphorus to the soil. As an old man once told me, "it is a slow way to serve the Lord."
bird dog
Well-known member
BC, No it is not hay fields. The previous owner sprigged the Tifton in two fields to make a hay I believe but he passed away and his boys had it of three or four years and did nothing to the place. Than it was abandoned completely for 18 months or so. The whole place was in bad shape when I bought it and most of it still is. Herbicide got the weeds under control but the grasses are still poor. The 3 awn has really come on this year with the wet spring we had that followed the drought from last year. I'm sure you are right on soil depletion. A soil test will show zero nitrogen, almost zero phosphorus, and to much potassium.
When I fertilize, the three awn just gets stronger. Burning is not a option in this area. I unroll 140 or so rolls a year but that doesn't go that far on 400 acres.
The tifton seems to green up late was the reason I thought I might spray a low dosage of roundup at the first sign of spring. Our local NRCS is worthless. You ask them for a solution, all they can tell you is the cause for which I am perfectly aware of.
When I fertilize, the three awn just gets stronger. Burning is not a option in this area. I unroll 140 or so rolls a year but that doesn't go that far on 400 acres.
The tifton seems to green up late was the reason I thought I might spray a low dosage of roundup at the first sign of spring. Our local NRCS is worthless. You ask them for a solution, all they can tell you is the cause for which I am perfectly aware of.
@bird dog In certain cases you can disk the heck out of Tifton and push out some of the other grasses. Those type of grasses tend to be pretty shallow rooted vs Tifton.
With he right timing of moisture and fert, the Tifton should take over.
There are always seed beds but the Tifton can usually choke them out before they get going.
It's going to be tough to beat with continuous grazing though.
With he right timing of moisture and fert, the Tifton should take over.
There are always seed beds but the Tifton can usually choke them out before they get going.
It's going to be tough to beat with continuous grazing though.
Low fertility is a big issue with the "bermudas" but soil compaction gets overlooked a lot. They to have loose soil for those runners to reach out and grab more ground.
It is good that you don't use glyphosate on food plots for deer, since it has been shown by studies to be harmful to deer, especially their fetuses.
I was told by several smart doctors of medicine that exposure to glyphosate is not at all good for people.
bird dog
Well-known member
Brute, its rotational grazed. I have fertilized it, to try to build the fertility hoping the Tifton would outgrow it but it seems that the 3 awn benefits as much as the Tifton does.
Its bottom land and has a zillion fire ant mounds. I was thinking about lightly discing it a few weeks before I sprayed it with the glypho. Thanks for your comments.
Its bottom land and has a zillion fire ant mounds. I was thinking about lightly discing it a few weeks before I sprayed it with the glypho. Thanks for your comments.
BC
Well-known member
I will try to ask around and see if Oust or Outrider might work for you.
Silver
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Mostly it tastes awful.
Mark Reynolds
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There really isn't a right or wrong answer here. The ultimate objective seems to be for both of you, 'kill the weeds', which both approaches accomplish. If you objective is also to 'not kill ANY Bermuda grass', you would be correct. If the objective is to 'use the least expensive herbicide', I'm betting your friend would be correct. If the objective was to still 'kill the weeds without using herbicide' an approach of using a grubhoe or pulling the weeds (if it's only 25 weeds) would be the right approach. Not sure there is anything to settle here. What is right for you doesn't seem right for your friend and what is right for your friend doesn't seem right for you. Both are valid approaches depending on your objectives.
Exposure to any herbicide or pesticide in not good for humans. Even if they haven't found a causal link yet. Always wear protective clothing and gloves when using them.
lynnmcmahan
Well-known member
Thought we were talking about killing weeds. Hope you didn't pay for that smart doctor's advice
