Ford 6.0L V8 32V DDI OHV Turbo Diesel

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There are some really good ones and some really bad ones. But there are also some modifications that can be done to make them alsmot bullet proof.
 
Thanks Hook..

Can you go into details?

Is there a way to know which are good and which are bad, is it certain years or how can you tell?
What mods should be made?
 
2006 and. 2005 are the best years. Do the egr delete, arp head studs, oils cooler upgrade, and blue fuel return spring mod. Probably about 5k to do it all.
A bad one will puke coolant out of the radiator bottle from the head bolts stretching and exhaust pressurizing the cooling system. Put dye in the coolant and run it hard. See if it pukes.
 
I don't know what engine is in the truck but do not buy a 2008. They are not good trucks. My husband's work truck died with only a little over 100,000 miles on it. Out of warranty, over $4k to fix. It was not the only one that the company had that failed.
 
chippie":h6l0ko88 said:
I don't know what engine is in the truck but do not buy a 2008. They are not good trucks. My husband's work truck died with only a little over 100,000 miles on it. Out of warranty, over $4k to fix. It was not the only one that the company had that failed.

I think the 2008 has a 6.4L V8 32V DDI OHV Twin Turbo Diesel.
 
Like hook said you can probably spend 5k and make one ok. We had one that was bad, lots of injector problems and turbo problems, no water coming out the bottle though, it was an 05. Our local electric company bought about 40 of them and had nothing but every kind of engine problem you can get, all they had ever owned was ford trucks, and it was so bad that they switched everything to dodge and chevy's after the 6.0 train wreck.
 
Personally I would stay away from the 6.0 and 6.4, we had horrible luck with both in our company fleet. So much so ,they have gone back to gas trucks. I was recently looking for a 3/4 ton truck for myself and there were a lot of the 6.0 and 6.4 relatively cheap compared the the older 7.3, 5.9,& 6.7 diesels. The older 7.3 and 5.9 pre DEF trucks are bringing top dollar down here.
Good luck!
 
Hook hit the nail on the head. The 6.0 is a great engine once those repairs are done. But the best part is the truck, 1999-06's are good trucks. I think Dodge caught up to them in 2010 and later models. We know folks that build hot rod Dura-Max and Cummins diesels, and they drive Ford 6.0's mostly, they buy them cheap and fix the engine issues.
 
I would try to find and older 1999-2003 7.3 PSD, or a 5.9 Dodge Cummins Diesel in decent shape if it was me. If I was buying a new one I would go gas. As far as used goes I would stay away from the Ford 6.0L diesel.
 
hooknline":1h5b2otj said:
2006 and. 2005 are the best years. Do the egr delete, arp head studs, oils cooler upgrade, and blue fuel return spring mod. Probably about 5k to do it all.
A bad one will puke coolant out of the radiator bottle from the head bolts stretching and exhaust pressurizing the cooling system. Put dye in the coolant and run it hard. See if it pukes.

I disagree I have a 2006 Ford 6.0 ltr. 1 ton It only has 70,000 mi. on it. That I can't keep running for three months straight. Biggest pile I've ever owned. I'll never own another Ford as long as I live.
 
jltrent":1slm3al1 said:
I would try to find and older 1999-2003 7.3 PSD, or a 5.9 Dodge Cummins Diesel in decent shape if it was me. If I was buying a new one I would go gas. As far as used goes I would stay away from the Ford 6.0L diesel.

I agree. B&G
 
Black and Good":1n2s4taw said:
hooknline":1n2s4taw said:
2006 and. 2005 are the best years. Do the egr delete, arp head studs, oils cooler upgrade, and blue fuel return spring mod. Probably about 5k to do it all.
A bad one will puke coolant out of the radiator bottle from the head bolts stretching and exhaust pressurizing the cooling system. Put dye in the coolant and run it hard. See if it pukes.

I disagree I have a 2006 Ford 6.0 ltr. 1 ton It only has 70,000 mi. on it. That I can't keep running for three months straight. Biggest pile I've ever owned. I'll never own another Ford as long as I live.
What's is doing (or not doing). A lot of the systems are tied together and it takes a good mech to straighten it out
 
hooknline":2g5m3z62 said:
Black and Good":2g5m3z62 said:
hooknline":2g5m3z62 said:
2006 and. 2005 are the best years. Do the egr delete, arp head studs, oils cooler upgrade, and blue fuel return spring mod. Probably about 5k to do it all.
A bad one will puke coolant out of the radiator bottle from the head bolts stretching and exhaust pressurizing the cooling system. Put dye in the coolant and run it hard. See if it pukes.

I disagree I have a 2006 Ford 6.0 ltr. 1 ton It only has 70,000 mi. on it. That I can't keep running for three months straight. Biggest pile I've ever owned. I'll never own another Ford as long as I live.
What's is doing (or not doing). A lot of the systems are tied together and it takes a good mech to straighten it out

You Name it. The only thing on it that hasn't been opened up is the Tranny. All the injectors have been replaced 3to5 times, EGR cooler 4 times. Injection Module twice. The coating on the inside of Fuel tank started peeling off ruined the fuel system and injectors had to be replaced and flushed $4000.00. Shelled the Rearend at 50,000 miles wasn't under warranty because of time $5000.00 Ford spent probably $15,000 on it while it was under warranty. I've spent that much myself after warranty. Can't keep tires on the front of it. Junk SOB. Do yourself a favor and buy a Dodge. :bang:
 
I am not blinded by Ford loyalty to the point that I don't realize when a piece of ____, is a piece of _____. The 6.0 and 6.4's are both pieces of crap. You shouldn't have to fix and modify something to make it work right when it's basically brand new - that's the manufacturer's job. And I still haven't made up my mind on the 6.7. Stick with a 7.3, although they are hard to find with low hours.
 
Aaron":2dhslebo said:
I am not blinded by Ford loyalty to the point that I don't realize when a piece of ____, is a piece of _____. The 6.0 and 6.4's are both pieces of crap. You shouldn't have to fix and modify something to make it work right when it's basically brand new - that's the manufacturer's job. And I still haven't made up my mind on the 6.7. Stick with a 7.3, although they are hard to find with low hours.

:nod:
 

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