Fence Question

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Margonme

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I travel for my job. Fencing practices vary widely. Do you use steel pipe for posts in Texas?
 
What is diameter and length for pipe on the every 120 feet or for the braces and corners? Is pipe hollow (I guess that's what a pipe is otherwise it'd be a rod!!!)
 
NECowboy":2nsut856 said:
What is diameter and length for pipe on the every 120 feet or for the braces and corners? Is pipe hollow (I guess that's what a pipe is otherwise it'd be a rod!!!)

2 3/8 every 120ft. Length depends on how tall the fence is. Usually can get by with 8-9 ft, every hole gets 160lbs of quikcrete. These posts get caps and cable clips welded on.

Braces can be 2 3/8 but being I've got so much 4 1/2 I usually use that for my vertical posts on braces and corners (these also get capped). The horizontal and slants on braces and corners I'll use 2 3/8. I try to overbuild my stuff so I never have to worry about it.

Do you use pipe?
 
We typically use 23/8 for every thing except gate post. We use 8 to 9 foot post. We drive everything. H post We drive to around 4 foot the stubby post for the diagonal brace is driven as deep as possible . sometimes as deep as 8 feet.
 
Fence are there any air powered drivers that you would guarantee to drive through rock, say t-posts through 2 7/8? Had a friend bring one out and we mangled t-posts up till we finally just air drilled.
 
We do not use pipe here just wood. Would love pipe as it sounds easier and cheaper. I use t posts sometimes for replacement posts cuz it's easier and cheaper but it's the lazy way out. Fence do you use t posts or everything is pipe posts?
 
NECowboy, why don't you go south a tad and get a load of hedge post. I just restapled some field fence on some post put in the ground in 1975. Had to hunt for a spot to be able to start the staple. They don't bend, break or rot and you don't need a welder!
 
D2Cat":bqo69v54 said:
NECowboy, why don't you go south a tad and get a load of hedge post. I just restapled some field fence on some post put in the ground in 1975. Had to hunt for a spot to be able to start the staple. They don't bend, break or rot and you don't need a welder!

Hedge apple? Durable for sure.

Only problem with that stuff is finding a limb straight enough to make a post. Made a self bow out of it and it took me half a day and I bet a hundred trees to find a 6 foot section that was straight.


callmefence":bqo69v54 said:
post We drive to around 4 foot the stubby post for the diagonal brace is driven as deep as possible . sometimes as deep as 8 feet.

You just drive everything with no need for cement?
 
Commercialfarmer":2re26fum said:
D2Cat":2re26fum said:
NECowboy, why don't you go south a tad and get a load of hedge post. I just restapled some field fence on some post put in the ground in 1975. Had to hunt for a spot to be able to start the staple. They don't bend, break or rot and you don't need a welder!

Hedge apple? Durable for sure.

Only problem with that stuff is finding a limb straight enough to make a post. Made a self bow out of it and it took me half a day and I bet a hundred trees to find a 6 foot section that was straight.


callmefence":2re26fum said:
post We drive to around 4 foot the stubby post for the diagonal brace is driven as deep as possible . sometimes as deep as 8 feet.

You just drive everything with no need for cement?

Yes sir
 
Not trying to be argumentative. But steel is a far superior material for post. A welded brace is ridged and not near as prone to racking as a wood brace.
One of the first things I would tell anyone new to cattle. Is buy a portable welder and learn to use it. It is one of the most money saving abilities to possess.
 
callmefence":i0d0j93g said:
Not trying to be argumentative. But steel is a far superior material for post. A welded brace is ridged and not near as prone to racking as a wood brace.
One of the first things I would tell anyone new to cattle. Is buy a portable welder and learn to use it. It is one of the most money saving abilities to possess.

Any recommendations of brands and such?
 
callmefence":31m6w5nx said:
Not trying to be argumentative. But steel is a far superior material for post. A welded brace is ridged and not near as prone to racking as a wood brace.
One of the first things I would tell anyone new to cattle. Is buy a portable welder and learn to use it. It is one of the most money saving abilities to possess.

I agree. I have pressure treated wood posts with high tensile woven wire with one strand of barbed wire on top. The contractor who put it up did an excellent job. The posts have been up 7 years. We get a lot of moisture. The posts are showing weathering.
 
TennesseeTuxedo":c6lgxf9k said:
callmefence":c6lgxf9k said:
Not trying to be argumentative. But steel is a far superior material for post. A welded brace is ridged and not near as prone to racking as a wood brace.
One of the first things I would tell anyone new to cattle. Is buy a portable welder and learn to use it. It is one of the most money saving abilities to possess.

Any recommendations of brands and such?

Pretty good machine that won't break the bank and small enough 2 men and pick it up and sit in the back off a utv etc.
Hobart 145.


https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/shop ... g&usqp=CAc
 
D2Cat":tkeu68n4 said:
NECowboy, why don't you go south a tad and get a load of hedge post. I just restapled some field fence on some post put in the ground in 1975. Had to hunt for a spot to be able to start the staple. They don't bend, break or rot and you don't need a welder!

Got a few hedge posts too but hate em, durable sure but tough as nails to drive a staple into.
 
"Got a few hedge posts too but hate em, durable sure but tough as nails to drive a staple into."

Very few folks let hedge lay around for years then try to drive staples in them. Set the post and driving staples in the first year is no different then any other tree.
 

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