Dave
Well-known member
A place up toward Hereford has a bunch of these along the road. There is steep draws every couple hundred feet. Pull all you want you ain't moving that thing. The issue would be how to get it there.
fence questions...
- Thread starter greybeard
- Start date
Wires don't have to be that tight. We build fence up and down through beach sand. If it's gradual enough we just pull it to match the contour and tie it up. Especially with the high tensile wire, it looks good.
If it's too steep we fence it down with corners on each end. Fence it up with corners on each end. Then put some kind of water gap in the bottom because if it's that steep it will probably flow like a river at some point.
If cows go through fences they get sold. There isn't enough money in cattle to be making special arrangements for certain cows.
If it's too steep we fence it down with corners on each end. Fence it up with corners on each end. Then put some kind of water gap in the bottom because if it's that steep it will probably flow like a river at some point.
If cows go through fences they get sold. There isn't enough money in cattle to be making special arrangements for certain cows.
Ouachita
Well-known member
In your part of the country, when cows get out, I'll bet you can see to catch them so you can sell them.
If my cows get out onto forest service, I might spend days trying to find them.
If my cows get out onto forest service, I might spend days trying to find them.
callmefence
Keyboard cowboy
That's pretty damn interesting right there. It does seem like it would be easier to just build a brace with a Deadman. Maybe they where winter time shop projects???
Dave
Well-known member
I have no idea. I do know it is a old multi generational ranch. I see a dozen or more in use and several more in their equipment yard. My guess is it will be over 100 years before they have to replace them. Up the road a few miles and you can find split rail fence still in use.
1) The little bends were probably done to tighten(?)Back story. My youngest older sister, back in East Texas had a 15 year old 155' long net wire fence moved recently because it was not built originally on the property line. It was 60' off the line, basically 'lending' that much footage to a neighbor that is getting ready to sell his property. The neighbor was b-i-l to sister's now deceased husband and he ok'd the original fence placement for reasons unknown. The infamous 'brother-in-law deal. Anyway, Sis hired a local fence company in San Jacinto County to move the fence...
I went back to visit this week for thanksgiving and looked at sister's new fence. I am perplexed at what they did and why they did it that way. Told sister "well, I guess it's ok, but sure wasn't how I would have done it'..
1. The terminal ends, they didn't wrap all the way around the end posts and tie them back. Just stapled it 1/2 way around.
View attachment 23212
The diagonal wire between the end post and the brace post, they twisted, but removed whatever they used to twist it with. I always leave that length of bar in there and tie it off to the horizontal brace so the wire doesn't untwist and get loose later.
View attachment 23213
But the oddest thing I can't figure out.. is at every line post, they did this.. the little bends..
View attachment 23214
View attachment 23215
What the heck is that all about?
And, in addition to just stapling the ends of the net wire to the end posts, they FIRMLY drove in staples on the vertical brace post. I always leave those staples a little loose so the wire's tension doesn't pull that brace away from the horizontal post or the end post. (I didn't take a picture of that)
Hopefully she didn't pay too much for this..
2) The thing that gets me is why the wire is on the "outside" on the left of the corner post and on the "inside" to the right. I always put the wire on the side of the fence where I want the cows to stay so if they push against it, they are also pushing against the posts.
3) As someone else said, you can remove the twitch and the diagonal wire will remain twisted (most of the time) but I never do. (In fact, I've taken to building corners and h-braces with wooden posts using two cross members most of the time and done away with the diagonals altogether - and that has worked really well...so far...of course, I would rather use steel for corners and h-braces and such...just don't have that kind of budget). When I do use diagonals, I use a 12" to 18" piece of t-post that is cut from an old unuseable one for a twitch...lasts longer than wood and there are plenty of old half-rusted t-posts laying in the scrap pile...this has also worked well.
Granted, I never use anything other than barbed wire as that is what is already on almost all of our perimeter and cross fencing and I can keep it pretty well-maintained. There are a couple of short stretches made with old hog wire but I haven't had to do any repairs on them...yet. But I think you are right when you say the above fencing looks a bit "odd".
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I hope someone has some ideas for my new fence build.
I'm replacing an old pasture fence that runs parallel with the highway with 949-12 fixed knot wire. On one end of the fence is a T intersection. At this intersection is where drivers run the stop sign and plows through my fence, usually at night by a drunk driver. This has happened 3 times in 6 years.
What I have in mind is to build a separate 100'-150' long section of fence that's not tied to the main fence line. That way I only have to replace the torn out part.
I'm thinking of using 16' stockyard panels and T posts. That way if someone runs through it I can drive a few T posts and put new panels back up fairly easily in the middle of the night.
Anybody else had this problem and have a better idea? Thanks.
I'm replacing an old pasture fence that runs parallel with the highway with 949-12 fixed knot wire. On one end of the fence is a T intersection. At this intersection is where drivers run the stop sign and plows through my fence, usually at night by a drunk driver. This has happened 3 times in 6 years.
What I have in mind is to build a separate 100'-150' long section of fence that's not tied to the main fence line. That way I only have to replace the torn out part.
I'm thinking of using 16' stockyard panels and T posts. That way if someone runs through it I can drive a few T posts and put new panels back up fairly easily in the middle of the night.
Anybody else had this problem and have a better idea? Thanks.
Sounds like a good plan to isolate that section. We isolate areas that flow water in low spots or might go under water or that need attention more often than others. Like you said, no need to lose a long stretch for a small area.
On the panels just pick you poison.
Put what ever material you like working with. Even if it's barbed wire, you could keep 2 or 3 panels stacked there just in case you get that call. You can always tie them up even with some rope until you can get it repaired.
Hogfarmer10
Well-known member
I'd be tempted to ask your road dept if they would put a guardrail up. If not, if your fence is far enough back from the road, you could probably just get a joint of used guardrail (they're often about 25' long) and 3-4 good wood posts and do it yourself. Posts will cost more than the guardrail.
Thanks for the replies.
I had considered guardrail. The fence is just inside the 30' road right of way and wasn't sure if guardrail would stop a vehicle running into it head on at ? mph.
The last time it was torn down I went to the highway dept and requested rumble strips or something just to warn drivers of a stop sign ahead. They refused rumble strips but did install full length reflectors on the signs. They have worked so far without any accidents.
I had considered guardrail. The fence is just inside the 30' road right of way and wasn't sure if guardrail would stop a vehicle running into it head on at ? mph.
The last time it was torn down I went to the highway dept and requested rumble strips or something just to warn drivers of a stop sign ahead. They refused rumble strips but did install full length reflectors on the signs. They have worked so far without any accidents.
C-Ranch
Well-known member
See if you can find some used telephone poles from your local power company or Co-op . Cut them off at whatever height you'd like and bury them down 4ft. Attach the used guard rail to them. That will keep cars off the your main fence.
chevytaHOE5674
Well-known member
Check with your insurance carrier if you will be covered if somebody hits your guard rail and is injured...
The state highway guard rail is engineered to break away in some form when hit (often with holes drilled thru the posts to weaken them, or rubber/plastic mounts).
The state highway guard rail is engineered to break away in some form when hit (often with holes drilled thru the posts to weaken them, or rubber/plastic mounts).
