Cutting torch question

[Hook]

Never used one before. Never had to. Only recently started some fab work and used a chop saw with a cut off wheel. Now I find myself needing one for more fab work and ran across a set up with the tanks and all for 25 bucks. Got the gauge pressure set at 7 on the act and 30 on the o2. But I've melted 2 tips out so far. Am I too close to the work piece, is the inner hot part of the blue flame too short, angle wrong? Help me out here.

 

[Aaron]

Lots of good youtube videos out there to show the basics and perfecting your skills.

 

[M5farm]

I'm sure an expert will chime in but I will give you the shadetree version.

Turn both bottles on, crack the acytene know enough to get it to lite and you want a flame that is about 3 to 4" with black soot coming off. then crack you oxy and tighten the blue flame until it is about 2 inches. You want a tight flame and not a lot of roar.

 

[novatech]

I am cutting at 15 and 50lbs.
I turn the oxy. on all the way at the hose and close the valve at the cutting torch. I slightly open the fuel valve and light the torch. I turn up the fuel until the flame separates from the torch and then turn it down until the flame just touches the torch again. I then turn on the oxy. It will usually be to much so I turn it down until the long blue flame goes away and only have the darker blue flame left. When cutting bring this dark blue flame just above the work piece. When heated to the melting point squeeze the oxy handle down all the way and cut. No doubt some one on Utube can do a much better job of explaining than me.
On to your problem. I have never had a torch tip get hot enough to burn unless I was cutting in a tight spot or just used it up from a lot of use. It sounds to me that you may have something dangerously wrong. Like internal burning inside the torch. I would take it to some one and have it checked out. Most welding supply stores could lead you in the right direction. While you are the buy a flashback arrestor. Install it where the fuel hose attaches to the torch. This prevents the flame from traveling up the hose and blowing the tank and you into many tiny pieces.

 

[jedstivers]

Unless you just happened on a heck of a deal go buy a good set.

 

[jedstivers]

If I remember tomorrow I'll video how I turn mine on and text it to you.

 

[ohiosteve]

You will grow to love your torch once you get used to it. Make sure you have the right tip size for starters. A "00" or a "0" is what I usually use. 00 is up to 1/4" and 0 is up to 1/2". You should be real close at 7 psig acetylene 30 psig oxygen. A welding shop should have charts with proper tip sizes and pressures to run, very handy information. Like novatech said turn the gas up till the flame just jumps the tip then back it off a little. Turn the preheat oxy up until the small flames around the center hole get nice and crisp, then back it off a little, you want the blue flames to look like fuzzy dart tips, not crisp but a little fuzzy. practice makes perfect, If you didn't get a rosebud tip you should consider buying one, they work much better for heating large areas than a cutting tip. have fun.

 

[ohiosteve]

Unless you just happened on a heck of a deal go buy a good set.

Jed is right. If it is a cheapo generic head and regulators you will have a heck of a time. I like Victor.

 

[Hook]

Thanks guys. I spent a little more time playing with it and watched a couple videos on utube. Got it figured out I think. I had the oxy turned up too high on the final control knob. As m5 put it I had it roaring without pulling the handle trigger.
The gauge set is a top of the line one. Starts with a v but don't remember th name off the top of my head. I took it to a welding shop buddy of mine and he saint was te same set he uses.

 

[highgrit]

Hook, I don't know what your cutting. But Harbor Freight sells a good little grinder for $20.00 and thin cut wheels are less than $10.00. I have a grinder for each job, no changing stuff back and fourth. I've been using cut wheels more and more. You don't need to grind and the cut is perfect. :2cents:

 

[Hook]

Hook, I don't know what your cutting. But Harbor Freight sells a good little grinder for $20.00 and thin cut wheels are less than $10.00. I have a grinder for each job, no changing stuff back and fourth. I've been using cut wheels more and more. You don't need to grind and the cut is perfect. :2cents:

Yep. I've been using cut off wheels a lot. It's nice to have the option of cutting plate steel with a torch too. Especially for contours.

 

[M5farm]

Hook, I don't know what your cutting. But Harbor Freight sells a good little grinder for $20.00 and thin cut wheels are less than $10.00. I have a grinder for each job, no changing stuff back and fourth. I've been using cut wheels more and more. You don't need to grind and the cut is perfect. :2cents:

High get you some cutting wheels from fastnal or at least try a dewalt brand lowes /HD the ones from harbor freight work but you will get more life out of a good wheel.

 

[highgrit]

Your right M5, but you get 10 cut off wheels at Harbor Freight for the price of 3 at Home cheapo.

 

[M5farm]

Your right M5, but you get 10 cut off wheels at Harbor Freight for the price of 3 at Home cheapo.

The ones you are getting must be better than the ones I have tried. When I have had a lot of cutting I was constantly changing the wheels. But you will here no argument from me on the grinder. I do like the black one better than the Brownish colored one.

 

[greybeard]

Get yourself a rosebud (heating tip) while you're at it. Comes in handy if you need to heat (or pre-heat) something.
With that, you can go ahead and open the knobs up a LOT more. FLAME ON!! :lol2:

 

[dieselbeef]

wow..not much good info in here..victor ring a bell...yer gonna hurt yerself boy