Bumper pull or gooseneck flatbed?

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5th wheel is great on the pavement, but off-road they are terrible they don't have any oscillation so if you get twisted up the trailer will lift the back tires of the truck leaving you stuck.
Lots of them used off road here, but guys have four-way pivoting fifth wheels. All depends on what you want to spend. I don't like crawling up in the box of the truck to hook things up, but I like having my truck bed free for other things so I stick with the goose.
 
Most of the 4 way pivoting 5th wheel hitches I've seen have like 6-8 degrees of side to side movement.

Some of the field approaches and ditches I have to cross need way more than that for movement. Haha
 
I wouldn't even consider a bumper pull for what you are talking about. I was in the same exact position, needed a hay and equipment trailer, but didn't want just a hay trailer. Went with a 30' hydraulic dovetail. Once you toss the ramps, you'll never buy another ramped trailer again. It appears your budget doesn't allow so anything with a pop-up tail or fold-over-flat ramps will do.

I went with a 30'. That gives me two rows of either 5 six foot dia bales, or 6 five foot dia bales. It's a great fit for any size. I built a quick rack for the tail end that latches into the stack pockets then pins in place. I have a magnetic mount camera I put on the bar so I can see behind me to change lanes on the interstate.

The 30' works out nicely for hay and it's large enough to haul a tractor with an implement if you need it.
 

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Most of the 4 way pivoting 5th wheel hitches I've seen have like 6-8 degrees of side to side movement.

Some of the field approaches and ditches I have to cross need way more than that for movement. Haha

You must use a flatbed, if I try to cross ground that is too uneven I get war wounds on my truck box. If I drop my king pin to give more space between box rails and trailer neck I don't get any weight on my front trailer wheels. I don't really want to give my trailers lift kits either. Everything is a danged compromise lol
 
Any one ever entertained the idea of installing a equalizer hitch for the bumper pull. I have but have not yet.

Those work well. Used to have an equalizer setup when we had a big bumper pull stock trailer.
 
Indeed I have a flatbed, the original box had many scares from the GN trailers.

I have a weight distributing hitch on my 22' tilt deck. Don't use it everytime, but when loading up near capacity I use it and it helps a ton. Allows something like 1500lbs of tongue weight without squatting. This allows you to haul a little heavier load.
 
I have an old crate that looks like a milk crate only taller. Probably half again taller than a standard milk crate. Flip it upside down and stand on it. Makes hooking up the goose neck a breeze. I don't know how or where I came to have it. It says Pepsi and Lewistown Montana on the side.
 
Indeed I have a flatbed, the original box had many scares from the GN trailers.

I have a weight distributing hitch on my 22' tilt deck. Don't use it everytime, but when loading up near capacity I use it and it helps a ton. Allows something like 1500lbs of tongue weight without squatting. This allows you to haul a little heavier load.
and it keeps your headlights on the road instead of looking for the owls in the trees
 
When I designed my truck deck, I put a well placed handle on the headache rack, with the running board on the cab it's really easy to get up onto
 
A 5th wheel and GN hitch are setup the same on the trailer side other than the hitch. It is possible to put an adaptor on a 5th wheel trailer to pull on a GN truck.

Also possible to put a 5th wheel kingpin on a GN trailer but 99% of the time the hitch will be wayyyy too high without modifications.
 
If you were only needing it for hay I'd get a self dumping hay trailer. But since you said multi purpose I'd get a flatbed goose neck .
 
I've owned bumper pulls and goosenecks. Currently own 4 GN's, one 5th wheel (camper), and NO bumper pulls, and I would never consider owning another one. It's that big of a difference in how they pull and handle. Period. End of story. There's a reason why all semis are pulling 5th wheels, rather than "bumper pulls"........... it's WAY safer, because the load doesn't get leverage on your truck. The weight is placed just ahead of the rear axle (so in the middle of the frame of your truck), and some of the weight is then placed on your FRONT axle as well as the rear, and THAT is what makes it handle so much differently and more safely. No more headlights pointing at the sky.

Unless all you're hauling is light loads up to "car weight"... like 4000#, don't even look at a bumper pull.

And like BirdDog above said, "Trailers are like work shops. You always wish you had a bigger one.
Get the big gooseneck if you have the truck to handle it. Unless your tractor is toy size you will never be happy with a bumper pull."

Have you ever overloaded your current trailer? I'm betting you probably do every time you haul a load of hay. It's not "how much can you fit onto it"... it's how much weight is it rated for. My lighter trailer probably hauled 70% loads that were over it's rated limit. I bought it to haul hay, and every load that I hauled was over it's rating. There's a reason why they have "weight ratings" on them.... they're designed to haul up to that limit SAFELY.

You can always leave some of the bed empty.... but it sucks having to make another trip because you can't fit it all onto one load, or having to hire the haul done because you don't have enough trailer to do it. You get used to the length of the trailer that your pulling, and a longer trailer actually trails better than a short one does. Once you're used to it, you'll never wish you had a smaller trailer, guaranteed. That being said, I've got a 14,000# 30' GN with manual dovetail and flip over ramps, and a 25,000# 34' GN with hydraulic dovetail (this one too has been significantly overloaded... biggest load had over 50,000# of LOAD, not including the trailer.... NOT GOOD!!!!!, and I went really slow, and only had to go like 15 miles with it).... I like that lighter trailer when hauling lighter loads, like my skid loader, because it's faster to hook up (don't need the low speed on the jacks), and I leave the dovetail down all the time on it, and then just flip the ramps to load/unload. If the big trailer was just as easy and fast to hook up and load/unload though, I'd sell the light trailer. Hydraulic dovetail is nice, but another thing to go wrong and have to maintain, and the ramp then ends up being steeper (no flip overs to extend the slope)... and that's a problem when I get snow/ice on it... can't always make it up, I've never had that happen with the smaller trailer with the flip over ramps.

BTW... my wife just walked in and asked what I was doing..... ME: "A guy on this forum is asking if he should get a gooseneck or bumper hitch trailer".
WIFE: "Oh my God... what a stupid question!" I asked what else she said.... she said, "There isn't anything more to say".

As for the picture of the jackknifed gooseneck posted by chevy taHOE5674 above, yeah, it can happen... but it'll absolutely happen alot easier and DOES HAPPEN alot more often with a bumper pull. Usually, with either, it's driver error... going too fast, with an improperly loaded load, or a load too heavy for the trailer or the truck. Also, I've got a dually pickup, and I will say that those help for truck stability too. B&W hitch is my choice, hands down.

TaHOE also commented that "5th wheels don't have any oscillation.... so not good off pavement"... that's NOT the case with a gooseneck... they're two entirely different attachment systems, although they both place the weight of the trailer where it needs to be.
 
I've owned bumper pulls and goosenecks. Currently own 4 GN's, one 5th wheel (camper), and NO bumper pulls, and I would never consider owning another one. It's that big of a difference in how they pull and handle. Period. End of story. There's a reason why all semis are pulling 5th wheels, rather than "bumper pulls"........... it's WAY safer, because the load doesn't get leverage on your truck. The weight is placed just ahead of the rear axle (so in the middle of the frame of your truck), and some of the weight is then placed on your FRONT axle as well as the rear, and THAT is what makes it handle so much differently and more safely. No more headlights pointing at the sky.

Unless all you're hauling is light loads up to "car weight"... like 4000#, don't even look at a bumper pull.

And like BirdDog above said, "Trailers are like work shops. You always wish you had a bigger one.
Get the big gooseneck if you have the truck to handle it. Unless your tractor is toy size you will never be happy with a bumper pull."

Have you ever overloaded your current trailer? I'm betting you probably do every time you haul a load of hay. It's not "how much can you fit onto it"... it's how much weight is it rated for. My lighter trailer probably hauled 70% loads that were over it's rated limit. I bought it to haul hay, and every load that I hauled was over it's rating. There's a reason why they have "weight ratings" on them.... they're designed to haul up to that limit SAFELY.

You can always leave some of the bed empty.... but it sucks having to make another trip because you can't fit it all onto one load, or having to hire the haul done because you don't have enough trailer to do it. You get used to the length of the trailer that your pulling, and a longer trailer actually trails better than a short one does. Once you're used to it, you'll never wish you had a smaller trailer, guaranteed. That being said, I've got a 14,000# 30' GN with manual dovetail and flip over ramps, and a 25,000# 34' GN with hydraulic dovetail (this one too has been significantly overloaded... biggest load had over 50,000# of LOAD, not including the trailer.... NOT GOOD!!!!!, and I went really slow, and only had to go like 15 miles with it).... I like that lighter trailer when hauling lighter loads, like my skid loader, because it's faster to hook up (don't need the low speed on the jacks), and I leave the dovetail down all the time on it, and then just flip the ramps to load/unload. If the big trailer was just as easy and fast to hook up and load/unload though, I'd sell the light trailer. Hydraulic dovetail is nice, but another thing to go wrong and have to maintain, and the ramp then ends up being steeper (no flip overs to extend the slope)... and that's a problem when I get snow/ice on it... can't always make it up, I've never had that happen with the smaller trailer with the flip over ramps.

BTW... my wife just walked in and asked what I was doing..... ME: "A guy on this forum is asking if he should get a gooseneck or bumper hitch trailer".
WIFE: "Oh my God... what a stupid question!" I asked what else she said.... she said, "There isn't anything more to say".

As for the picture of the jackknifed gooseneck posted by chevy taHOE5674 above, yeah, it can happen... but it'll absolutely happen alot easier and DOES HAPPEN alot more often with a bumper pull. Usually, with either, it's driver error... going too fast, with an improperly loaded load, or a load too heavy for the trailer or the truck. Also, I've got a dually pickup, and I will say that those help for truck stability too. B&W hitch is my choice, hands down.

TaHOE also commented that "5th wheels don't have any oscillation.... so not good off pavement"... that's NOT the case with a gooseneck... they're two entirely different attachment systems, although they both place the weight of the trailer where it needs to be.
I know it probably sound like a stupid question to people who have experience with gooseneck trailers but I have very little with them. Just pulled a few of my friends trailers a very short distance.
 
I've owned bumper pulls and goosenecks. Currently own 4 GN's, one 5th wheel (camper), and NO bumper pulls, and I would never consider owning another one. It's that big of a difference in how they pull and handle. Period. End of story. There's a reason why all semis are pulling 5th wheels, rather than "bumper pulls"........... it's WAY safer, because the load doesn't get leverage on your truck. The weight is placed just ahead of the rear axle (so in the middle of the frame of your truck), and some of the weight is then placed on your FRONT axle as well as the rear, and THAT is what makes it handle so much differently and more safely. No more headlights pointing at the sky.

Unless all you're hauling is light loads up to "car weight"... like 4000#, don't even look at a bumper pull.

And like BirdDog above said, "Trailers are like work shops. You always wish you had a bigger one.
Get the big gooseneck if you have the truck to handle it. Unless your tractor is toy size you will never be happy with a bumper pull."

Have you ever overloaded your current trailer? I'm betting you probably do every time you haul a load of hay. It's not "how much can you fit onto it"... it's how much weight is it rated for. My lighter trailer probably hauled 70% loads that were over it's rated limit. I bought it to haul hay, and every load that I hauled was over it's rating. There's a reason why they have "weight ratings" on them.... they're designed to haul up to that limit SAFELY.

You can always leave some of the bed empty.... but it sucks having to make another trip because you can't fit it all onto one load, or having to hire the haul done because you don't have enough trailer to do it. You get used to the length of the trailer that your pulling, and a longer trailer actually trails better than a short one does. Once you're used to it, you'll never wish you had a smaller trailer, guaranteed. That being said, I've got a 14,000# 30' GN with manual dovetail and flip over ramps, and a 25,000# 34' GN with hydraulic dovetail (this one too has been significantly overloaded... biggest load had over 50,000# of LOAD, not including the trailer.... NOT GOOD!!!!!, and I went really slow, and only had to go like 15 miles with it).... I like that lighter trailer when hauling lighter loads, like my skid loader, because it's faster to hook up (don't need the low speed on the jacks), and I leave the dovetail down all the time on it, and then just flip the ramps to load/unload. If the big trailer was just as easy and fast to hook up and load/unload though, I'd sell the light trailer. Hydraulic dovetail is nice, but another thing to go wrong and have to maintain, and the ramp then ends up being steeper (no flip overs to extend the slope)... and that's a problem when I get snow/ice on it... can't always make it up, I've never had that happen with the smaller trailer with the flip over ramps.

BTW... my wife just walked in and asked what I was doing..... ME: "A guy on this forum is asking if he should get a gooseneck or bumper hitch trailer".
WIFE: "Oh my God... what a stupid question!" I asked what else she said.... she said, "There isn't anything more to say".

As for the picture of the jackknifed gooseneck posted by chevy taHOE5674 above, yeah, it can happen... but it'll absolutely happen alot easier and DOES HAPPEN alot more often with a bumper pull. Usually, with either, it's driver error... going too fast, with an improperly loaded load, or a load too heavy for the trailer or the truck. Also, I've got a dually pickup, and I will say that those help for truck stability too. B&W hitch is my choice, hands down.

TaHOE also commented that "5th wheels don't have any oscillation.... so not good off pavement"... that's NOT the case with a gooseneck... they're two entirely different attachment systems, although they both place the weight of the trailer where it needs to be.
Tell your wife if she wants to see stupid she should take a look at the guy who put 50000 pounds on a 25000 pound trailer.
 
I have been watching for a used one but amazed at what they want for used ones. Saw a 15 year old one today for 5200 a 16+4 deck but can buy a new 20+5 for a 1000 more. Just doesn't seem like a bargain.
 
Tell your wife if she wants to see stupid she should take a look at the guy who put 50000 pounds on a 25000 pound trailer.
Callmefence.............Yeah... you've got that right! I'm fortunate that picture of the twisted up rig wasn't mine! That was a load of bundled/palleted fiberglass fence posts (4" hollows). The trailer also has a "deck over" on top of the gooseneck, and I just didn't ever stop to figure out how heavy each bundle was, and kept loading till it was full! It still LOOKED "reasonable" in the loading lot! Full length of the 34' trailer 2 wide x 2 bundles high, plus 2 wide x 1 bundle high on the 8' deck over. YOUSA! Never again. Dissappointing thing is, it would be an entirely full load and then some if loaded only 1 layer deep! Now you know why you want to get the BIG trailer! I will say, that trailer IS a really well built trailer, about as heavy as they come... but it's NOT made for that kind of a load. And neither is my pickup!

As for cost, usually if you're patient, you can come across a buy somewhere on the auctions (I'm not afraid to travel a ways to get a buy, if the difference will pay for my trip and then some). My heavy trailer cost me right around $5G, used. Keep your eyes open on Craigslist, Facebook Marketplace, Big Iron, EquipmentFacts, RitchieBros. Good luck hunting!

BTW, I WISH every day that my first trailer (the 30') would have had dual wheels instead of the singles. Tandems are better for going around corners than triples. And a bridged frame is alot stronger... only find this on the heavy trailers though.
 
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