barn post level

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The list only has 14' tin on it so wouldn't the wall height be 14'?
He wouldn't sell you 14' so you had to cut off 4' or at least he wouldn't me. I'm thinking this is one of the packages meant to be erected on your "level concrete pad"?
 
Dun wrote:One thing that hasn;t been mentioned is to cut the shortest post first.

Correct. In fact I don't cut the shortest post.

I leave it un cut for a standard height to cut the rest by.

A barn can't be too tall, but it can dang sure be too short.
 
denoginnizer Wrote:
The guy is selling a kit that builds a 24x48 barn for 2899.00 plus Tax. I havent compared the prices of his lumber to lumber at another store yet but his "kit" includes:
10 6x6x14
28 2x6x14
28 2x6x12
4 5/4x6x14
12 2x4x12
20 60lb bags concrete
36 3'x14 tin
5 10' Ridge cap
1500 screws
5 24' metal trusses
2lb 6d galv joist nails
1/2lb 8d spiral nails
20 6" carriage bolts
35 bolts 1'


Are you saying this costs $2,899.00? If so, are these posts pressure treated? I would think you would want to go with pressure treated rather than untreated posts. This is also an open barn + no concrete floor right? I believe that would raise the price quite a bit, but worth it if your going to use it for storing tractors and such. I do like that price though.

Dick
 
Like Kenb said the easiest way to level all the tops of the post is a water level.
It is a one man operation and they are only about $25.00 .
Mine has a loud solid tone that goes off when I am exactly level and if I go too high it has a broken tone.

Just mark all of the post then get the chainsaw out.

Dan
 
I've got 100 foot of poly tubing. I fill it almost completely. I leave about a foot of air in either end. Get yourself a reference point and someone on either end. You cannot get it more level than that.

To square the barn I use the ole 6 foot one way, 8 foot the other (90 degrees), and then 10 foot across. It is perfect. 30 foot, 40 foot, and 50 foot works. If you remember HS algebra, its the old A square plus B square equals C square formula for right triangles.

When I built the house, a bunch of civil engineers came out after the foundation was done. They went nuts asking about a transit etc. I laughed at them, told them I did the old fashion way to keep it accurate since I was building it for myself. So they pulled the corners. I was less than an 1/8" out on the corners. They couldn't believe it. Said they had never seen one that accurate. My answer was, get rid of the transit and do it the old fashion way. Daddy and Grandaddy did it the way I did it. Prolly great grandaddy too.

If you want it perfect, get a poly tube full of water and use it. A line level with a perfect bubble can still render you an inch off on a 40 foot span. The water tube is technically an open ended manometer, if you know what a manometer is.
 

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