Cracker
For cross fencing, including lanes, I use 1 wire electric fence. It is much cheaper & easier to build than multiwire fences. Also it is much easier to reconfigure when you come up with a better layout. Trust me when I say "no one gets it exactly right the first time". On a new farm, I start with polywire, 1/2" fiberglass corner posts & 3/8" fg line posts. After 2-3 years, when I'm confident the layout is the way it works best, I will start replacing the polywire with 14ga steel wire as time allows. I do not use hi-tensile wire for interior fences. Due to the stiffness, hi-tensile is more difficult to work with and the soft 14ga has been more than durable enough for me.
Would highly recommend building lanes to connect all pastures & your corral. If configured properly, 1 person can easily bring animals to the corral for treatments, working, shipping, etc. This will make your life so much easier when the inevitable problems do occur and an animal needs immediate care.
The attached link is for Kencove, where I buy most of my fencing materials. Even if you never buy from them, request their free catalog. It has many excellent fencing tips. BTW-they are excellent people to do business with & price competitive. They ship mostly by UPS with 3-4 day delivery direct to your place.
http://www.kencove.com/
IMO-some critical rules for electric fence:
1.
Do not skimp on the size of charger (energiser) For 150 acres, I would recommend nothing smaller than 6 joule output. You will most likely be disappointed with anything of lower output during adverse conditions such as very damp weather, heavy green grass or brush growing up into fence, etc.
2. Adequate grounding & lightning protection is also critical. Carefully follow mfg directions for number & size of ground rods. Also install lighning diverter & choke coil on fence side of charger and a surge protector on the AC outlet you plug charge into. There are some sensitive electronics that need protection from both the AC & fence side.
3. Electric fence training for animals. I have a small (60' x 200' ) trap connected to my corral that has a 5 wire barbed wire perimeter fence + 1 offset hot wire. All newly purchased animals spend their first 12-24 hrs in this trap. This small trap allows each animal to get direct experience with a hot wire with the barbed wire as a backup. For most, 1 touch is all it takes however their are a few slow learners who have to get hit 2 or maybe 3 times. If their first experience is very painful they don't want another dose.
IMO-Polywire with 9 strands of stainless steel wire is the most durable. Well worth the extra cost over 3 or 6 strand. Limit individual runs of polywire to no more than 1/2 mile to minimize voltage drop. If necessary use steel wire as a feeder to the far reaches of your farm. Maintaining high voltage is the key to effective electric fence.
By using electric cross fencing you can do a lot more for the same investment compared to multiwire fencing.
For water distribution, I use 1" high density polyethelyene pipe that is UV stabilized. This can be buried or just laid no top of the ground. I lay it above ground until I'm sure of the best layout, then bury it. The high density has been used above ground without freeze damage as far north as Missouri & Kentucky, maybe even farther north. Shouldn't be a problem in Florida.
Just my 2 cents worth.
Good luck & happy trails.
Brock