505 super i broke upper drive roller

[scf84]

baling hay yesterday and had the upper drive roller break. atleast 3/4 has already been broke before i bought it as you can tell in the picture. what are my options of fixing this a new roller or yall think a machine shop could put a whole new shaft on the end that broke? anyone have a idea on the price of a new roller?

 

[Nesikep]

It can be done... need to have a good welder and lathe to do it. Is this the baler that was skipping the chain a while back? perhaps the shaft was bent a bit and causing it to load up hard. It just needs to get V grooved REALLY well and built back up with weld, then turned down to fit the bearing again. If you've got the tools, I would say it's a 2 hour job or so.

 

[scf84]

yes this is the baler that was skipping the chain . do u think this would hold up if welded right?

 

[Nesikep]

We welded the shaft of a flail mower (brush hog to you folk I think), and it's held up for 15 years, A good weld is darned strong.. I would recommend the Arctec 220 XC rod for an arc welder, 85,000 lb tensile strength and flows nicely... One of my favourite rods, 7018's are very similar (including the lousy restrike characteristics) and would probably do pretty well too. When I did the front end conversion on my truck, I had to cut and weld the drag link on the steering and used that rod... perhaps not quite legal, but I figure the accident will have already happened if that thing breaks!

When we welded our mower shaft, we didn't have a lathe, and we just set the shaft in some wooden V blocks and spun it by hand, and used an angle grinder to clean it up, final with a sanding disc. Then we had to cut a groove into it for the key and did that with the grinder too.... it's worked for years now

 

[jltrent]

I have a 505I and from looking at the 3 hole flange yours is a 1 1/4" shaft and also 505I not Super I as they have four holes in the flange and 1 1/2" shaft or a hybrid in between models. I priced one of these rollers this spring and it was $594.84 part # 90583-001 The end of my shaft was bent so I had a machine shop build it up and then turn it down true. Also I moved the roller just below it to the top and put the rebuilt roller in its place. My baler has around 18000 bales through it as it was bought new in 1989 and I have a 505M now also. If the rest of your baler is good shape I would buy a new roller as the shaft is pressed in, with key way and it has to be exactly the same size. I wish I had bought a new roller instead of spending over $200 for it to be rebuilt and still not real happy with it.

 

[hurleyjd]

I would not even try welding it. Buy a new one or a used one Some of the burnt balers may have a good shaft.

 

[fitz]

I would not even try welding it. Buy a new one or a used one Some of the burnt balers may have a good shaft.

+1.
At jltrent's price if I could get a new one for 600.00 I wouldn't consider the machine shop option and welding was the way I bought groceries for a long time. Getting it done and getting it done right can often be two different things.

fitz

 

[Nesikep]

If you can get a good used one, I'd go that way, perhaps fix this one in my spare time (*sigh*) and keep it around as a spare to get me out of a bind.

 

[hurleyjd]

If you can get a good used one, I'd go that way, perhaps fix this one in my spare time (*sigh*) and keep it around as a spare to get me out of a bind.

Went searching for parts could not find any for the 505. You might try these folks they may have one http://www.tractorpartsasap.com/ When repairing something keep in mind that most machines shops charge upwards of $100 per hour. I think that you are looking at 10 to 12 hours of work.

 

[pricefarm]

I had a shaft from a grinder mixer that the bearing went out and wore a grove in the shaft. Had it fixed and they only charged 75$. They welded it up and then turned it back down to size. I think the weld would work fine but If u could find a new or used one at least u wouldn't always have that in the back of your mine everytime u roll hay " is it going to brake"

 

[scf84]

I have a 505I and from looking at the 3 hole flange yours is a 1 1/4" shaft and also 505I not Super I as they have four holes in the flange and 1 1/2" shaft or a hybrid in between models. I priced one of these rollers this spring and it was $594.84 part # 90583-001 The end of my shaft was bent so I had a machine shop build it up and then turn it down true. Also I moved the roller just below it to the top and put the rebuilt roller in its place. My baler has around 18000 bales through it as it was bought new in 1989 and I have a 505M now also. If the rest of your baler is good shape I would buy a new roller as the shaft is pressed in, with key way and it has to be exactly the same size. I wish I had bought a new roller instead of spending over $200 for it to be rebuilt and still not real happy with it.

it is supposed to be a 1990 super i. i think in 92 and up, they went with 1 1/2 shaft.

 

[jltrent]

The part # and price was good for the same exact roller you have at Carter & Carter machinery at Johnson City Tennessee this spring and they did have a roller in stock. If you will look just below the serial # etched in the steel your Vermeer baler will have the year of MFG on it. I saw a Super I like yours on Ebay a while back that had the 1 1/4" shafts as at the time I did not know that. Those are good balers and I would get a new roller. The one I had rebuilt they turned it down about 1/1000 of an inch to small and that doesn't seem like much, but it causes problems with the bearing and also getting the cog wheel to fit up tight.